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Carver mount gunsmithing.

Discussion in 'GSSF' started by mcsd2598, Jul 1, 2003.

  1. mcsd2598

    mcsd2598

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    I was reading the Ft. Wayne debriefing thread and saw that the ejection port may need to be lowered. After seeing Bruce Warren shoot with his Carver mount, I want one.

    How hard is it to lower the port? Would this be a simple operation with a dremel tool or file? Or should I send the slide off to someone to have it done? I checked the website but might have missed any reference to it.

    I figured it best to post it in GSSF instead of gunsmithing since alot of you guys here have one.
     
  2. Don At PC

    Don At PC Senior Member Millennium Member

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    This smithing mod is not required on all. If you are using the Aim Point Red Dot it is needed because the mount is a little different and sets lower. I use a Tasco PDP5 and no smithing was required. You didn't say what Red Dot or Glock model you were intending to use, that is where the smithing may or may not be required.
     

  3. mcsd2598

    mcsd2598

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    Probably either a OKO(calvary arms??) or the Tasco if I can still find one it would be mounted on either a 17c or 34.
     
  4. Fireglock

    Fireglock Which is worse?

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    Actually if you use the C-more or Aim Point type scope mount you'll need to lower the ejection port. If you use the Weaver mount then it's extremely unlikely you'll need to modify the ejection port. You can do the modification with a steady hand and Dremel tool or files. Personally I'd go with the Dremel. ;f
     
  5. Custom Glock Racing

    Custom Glock Racing I did it first. Millennium Member

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    A cmore or Aimpoint mount should have the port lowered. We do it for $50. You can run a OKO on a Weaver mount and should not have any problems. We have the OKOs in stock as well. Additionally STI makes an adapter so an OKO will fit a cmore mount.
     
  6. DP177

    DP177

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    It was my post you read about grinding the ejection port. I have the C-more mount, that's why I needed to lower the port. Bobby told me about it before I bought it (this was before his web site) and it's on his web sight on the C-more page. Says it needs to be lowered .100 of an inch.
    I clamped a board down on the drill press table top so the dremel tool just touched the area to be ground down and drew a line. Then I messured back .100" and clamped it down again. Using the board as a guide to keep the slide straight while moving it back and forth. Not to take any business away from Custom Glock Racing but I thought it was pretty easy. I didn't use a very fast speed on the drill press. When working with metal I think slower is better. Someone who is a gunsmith and done more of this might be able to correct me here.
    I did this the day before leaving for Indy and when I went to the range to test it I was still having jams once in a while. I went back and looked at the dremel bit I was using and saw that it was now about half the size it was when I started grinding. (I guess the slide is pretty hard metal...go figure) So I really hadn't taken .100 of an inch off of the ejection port.
    I didn't have time to mess with it anymore before leaving for the match so at the match I entered the Unlimited catagory for fun and knowing that I might have jams. And I did...two at each stage!
    I plan on doing more grinding this weekend. I also plan on calling Carver and asking him for some close-up pictures of what it should look like when it's done.
    The mount is great! and I really like the full field of view the C-more gives vs the other red dot sights I've used so I think the little bit of work is worth it. If there is an interest I could try and post some pictures of the finished product and how I did this. Or I'll see if Carver will give me permission to post any pictures he might send me.
     
  7. mcsd2598

    mcsd2598

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    Thanks for all the great info. Pictures would deffinately be nice. I'm not sure exactly what optics I'm goibg with yet so I'm keepig my options open.
     
  8. Bruce Warren

    Bruce Warren Millennium Member

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    Gee, I didn't think anyone was watching me shoot. Good thing or I most likely would have flubbed it.
    I have attatched a photo of my slide that I modified for the Carver Mount. As stated on other posts you may not need to open the port if using the Weaver mount but I tried using some very low powered ammo and was catching brass in the port once in a while. I was using 3-D and Ultra-Max 124 gr. lead and the gun cycled so slowly that the brass was falling out from under the extractor. I tightened the extractor but I still had problems. I lowered the port and still had problems so I've switched to Winchester 115 purchased at WalMart for $10.96 per 100 rds. I don't think I can reload for that price. The gun runs flawlessly now. I need to rethink my comp design and make some changes, then maybe I'll get my times into the relm of Unlimited.
    ;g
     
  9. DP177

    DP177

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    Thanks for the photo Bruce. Do you know the total amount that you lowered it? I need to get a calliper to measure mine...I'm only going to lower mine to the point that it works reliably with the loads I'm using now (they are pretty light but still work fine in my stock gun).
    Did you put the opening in the side of the slide yourself also?
    With all this talk and a change in my schedule I think I'll get my dremel bit out and start grinding some more. ;K
     
  10. DannyR

    DannyR Moderator Millennium Member

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    Before you start grinding, have you tried a 12# recoil spring?
     
  11. Fireglock

    Fireglock Which is worse?

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    Here's a photo of Bobby's 17L with a C-more. I believe the slide work was done by CGR. Notice the squared off lower rear corner of the ejection port. Bobby has allowed me to post these photos in the past to help our users.
     
  12. shooter2

    shooter2 Millennium Member

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    Doug:

    Figured you'd have the jones for a mount like that... in which case I'll wait to try yours before I decide if I want one for myself. ;)

    Best price I've seen on OKOs is www.coalcreekarmory.com. You know I like my OKOs, but you might want to consider a "beer can" type sight with variable reticle sizes for maximum effectiveness on all GSSF stages. Tasco used to make a PDP like this, and I saw a Bushnell or Nikon not long ago that 3min dot, 10min dot, crosshair, and dot-in-circle options. Would be nice to run a 3min dot for the 25 yard targets and switch to a 10min for plates, etc.
     
  13. Fireglock

    Fireglock Which is worse?

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  14. DP177

    DP177

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    Fireglock, Thanks for the photo...I knew I had seen one of Carver's on here before but couldn't find it recently when I was looking.

    DannyR, Too late. I already did more grinding. ;a And I currently have a #13 spring and Tungsten Guide Rod in my 34 and I'd rather not go any lighter so I can still load the same ammo for both guns. I'll keep it in mind though.

    I took some photos while I was grinding but I'm having trouble attaching them so maybe later I'll be able to post them...
     
  15. shooter2

    shooter2 Millennium Member

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    Fireglock:

    Thanks... also found the Millett "MultiDot" which has a 3, 5, 8 and 10min dot and a 30mm tube. Can't remember who made the one with the 2 dots, crosshairs, etc. Maybe it was a Leapers POS or something.