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Can we create a stick on good vs bad brass to reload?

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by alank2, Mar 23, 2008.

  1. VN350X10

    VN350X10

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    Steelburner,
    NATO & U.S. Mil. spec both REQUIRE crimped primers, per contract. And the newest Mil. ammo has the WCC headstamp from Winchester, similar to the Western marked brass.
    Get a RCBS crimp removing die set, or load on a Dillon 1050 & the problem is solved !

    uncle albert
     
  2. Steelburner

    Steelburner

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    UA: Yes, I'm familiar with those facts.

    As for getting a Dillon or die set, frankly, I'm on a fixed income and I'm thrifty (read: tight). Since I only shoot a couple hundred rounds a month, removing the crimp by hand isn't that much of a problem, and it helps keep my arthritis under control; I tend to not want to use that hand and it needs to be exercised.

    Thanks for the reply, and I apologize for waiting so long to reply. - Steelburner
     

  3. Steelburner

    Steelburner

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    Primers DO back out of their pockets at firing. That's one reason Mil Spec ammo has crimped primers ... wouldn't do to have a primer completely bail out and fall into the works when the bad guys are charging and you really NEED your weapon on full auto. When the round actually fires and pressure builds, the primers are re-seated when the round backs up to the breech face. Tolerances on pistols and revolvers SHOULD be good enough that the primers don't back completely out. Some machine pistols don't have good tolerances, or the round can cough up a fired primer when it ejects, hence the primers are crimped or staked. - Steelburner
     
  4. VN350X10

    VN350X10

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    arthritis sucks, it's one of the main reason I don't shoot many matches anymore, even the 9mm hurts after 50 rounds or so. But I still shoot the .44 mags, & the 10MM, but not near as much, so as to stay in practice, as I carry a 10MM ! What do you use to remove the crimp when needed?


    uncle albert
     
  5. Steelburner

    Steelburner

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    VN350X10: Hornady makes a hice hand primer pocket reamer, but the knurled aluminum handle is too small for comfort, even without arthritis. I had a pal with a lathe to knurl, drill and tap me a larger, longer piece of aluminum rod so I can screw the cutter(s) into the end. Its ugly, but it works and keeps "Arthur Ritus" from gettin' too cranky. It does a nice job. - Steelburner

    I have to take a rest when I'm at the range after shooting 50 9mms. I'm working toward a load that's not too "blast-y" and doesn't kick my butt when it fires. Fortunately, my G19 Gen. 4 is fairly comfortable even with factory loads.
     
  6. highcap

    highcap

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    Do you use anything to make it easier to hold the brass while reaming the primer pocket? That little 223 brass can be a bugger to hold when my hands get sweaty.
     
  7. VN350X10

    VN350X10

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    If it works, "ugly" doesn't matter. Don't know if you know any road-racing history....look up Max Budachosky's car "Old Yeller". Whipped the snot out of Ferraris, Jags, Listers & everything else that was fast at the time.A junkyard dog from hell ! And it worked.


    uncle albert
     
  8. Steelburner

    Steelburner

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    highcap: I went to a shoe-repair place and the man gave me a piece of what he called "dance shoe leather" that's thin, pliable, and rough on one side. I use that when my hands get sweaty.

    Steelburner
     
  9. AR10Tfan

    AR10Tfan

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    Hi everyone, I've been through the pages in this thread, did not find anything about 9mm cases marked FM 9mm luger they are brass but in addition to a external line around the case about midway between the case mouth and the web area they also have a shoulder inside the case, it almost looks as if the inside of the case was machined out make a shoulder to {my guess} eliminate setback or increase pressure with a smaller charge !?. Anyone seen or have any experience with them?
     
  10. VN350X10

    VN350X10

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    AR10Tfan,
    Any chance you could post a pic or 3 ? Would like a clear shot of the headstamp if possible, as I have a LARGE headstamp reference collection. Might be able to give you a positive I.D.


    uncle albert
     
  11. njl

    njl

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    Sounds kind of like IMT and Ammoload...both of which I won't use due to the number of people who've posted about them separating at that internal shoulder, leaving a brass ring (front half of the case) in their chamber.
     
  12. AR10Tfan

    AR10Tfan

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    VN350 and njl, thanks for your response, I checked on the brass listing in the first of the thread and didn't find the case listed, Looks like I'll pitch these also
    uncle Albert, I'll get some pics as soon as I gain access to I-phone, tomorrow or Wed.
     
  13. VN350X10

    VN350X10

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    O.K. will be watching for them


    uncle albert
     
  14. 10or45

    10or45

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    Magtech (CBC) in rimmed cartridges is junk; the rim diameters and thicknesses vary so much they need machined to fit shell holder. Have not seen AMERIC. I will take heed and avoid them. Federal is soft. Its great in low pressure like 45ACP but bad in .308 auto loaders for reloading. I got in the habit of machining the primer pockets of all brass on 1st reload with a carbide cutter like K&M and deburring the flash holes. This makes Herters (Sellier & Bellot) brass primer pockets perfect for a snug primer fit. I have used Herters for many magnum pistol reloads at full power with a firm roll crimp. S&B 45ACP brass does have thinner case wall at the head where it head spaces compared to some others, but holds a taper crimp enough to prevent set back. The case web and primer area are stout on this brass. PMC brass has off center flash holes but works fine for me in the calibers I reload. I use it in my MIA as it is built close to 7.62 X 51 NATO specs. It has much less case capacity than Win .308 so charges must be reduced like Lake City NATO or IMI.
     
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  15. Mrbum

    Mrbum

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    Cci blazer brass in 45 also used a small primer pocket, which was very annoying.
     
  16. njl

    njl

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    I know S&B is already listed as bad...but I just got some S&B LP and when I encountered some S&B .45acp brass, I decided to give them a try. The primer pockets don't necessarily look crimped, but the pockets have a very sharp shoulder. I tried priming one, and it was a no-go. I knocked the primer out and tried again after reaming the pocket. Still very hard to get the primers in. Not worth the trouble. I'll save any more of these for dummy rounds or similar uses that don't require priming.
     
  17. 10or45

    10or45

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    Reaming S&B or Herters primer pockets often isn't enough to open up, especially small primers. They need machined with a carbide cutter.
     
  18. VN350X10

    VN350X10

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    I don't have a problem with S&B .45 ACP brass, but then, I load my .45's on a Dillon 1050, so the pockets get swaged, giving a nice radius to help the primer into the pocket.
    Try a RCBS Pocket swage set, it will do both small & large, and a case really only needs 1 pass thru the swage set & it's good for the life of the brass. I like this better than machining the pockets, as it doesn't remove material, just re-shapes it.

    uncle albert
     
  19. njl

    njl

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    I have a superswage...but it's not worth reconfiguring it for .45 brass until I build up a collection of them...and even then, I suspect it might need adjusting between doing different brands of .45.
     
  20. 10or45

    10or45

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    Maybe not worth your time....I like them for magnum pistol because the primer pockets hold tight for many reloads and the case mouths take multiple roll crimps.