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brownells spay on finishes .... plastic frame

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by kenndapp, May 26, 2012.

  1. kenndapp

    kenndapp

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    i am looking to paint my glock frames with od green. some of them see a lot of holster time so i would like a tough finish. i would like to paint once and not have to repaint after a little use and abuse of the weapon. right now i am looking at brownells GUN-KOTE or ALUMA-HYDE. mostly because they come in a spray can and i don't want to go around buying fancy airbrush kits i might need for other spray finishes. the only difference i can find between the two is that GUN-KOTE is a bake on (via oven or sun?) which leads me to believe it would be tougher than ALUMA-KOTE which i believe is air cure. does anyone have any experience with either of brownells finishes be it GUN-KOTE or ALUMA-KOTE? which one is in fact tougher? again my application is plastic pistol frames (and plastic accessories). thank you for your time and experience, gentlemen.
     
  2. SJ 40

    SJ 40 Deplorable,Clinger

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    I would also be interested in the end user's take on the Brownells product. SJ 40
     

  3. bigbluedodge

    bigbluedodge

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    If you are refering to other spay finishes like duracoat or not, I was looking into this also for digi cam paint and duracoat can be applied with cheap sprayers like the one on their web site. As far as I can tell about the differences is the duracoat is a 2 part epoxy, and the others are a single stage spray. While I think the duracoat will cost a little more, they offer it on their web site with 1 color for 30$ (http://www.duracoat-finishes.com/). I have seen them use this same coating on "American Guns" and "Suns of Guns" so it can't be all that bad, but I have never used it so I cant say for sure but there on some link on this forum for painting too that I looked at and it seemed that the ones you listed, and duracoat, and a few others are good with a good cleaning and following the instructions for a good end product. Keep us posted on what you do and get some pics when you are done, there are also some links here and videos on Youtube on removing the coatings if you odnt like it or have problems with it.
     
  4. kenndapp

    kenndapp

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    thank you for that. i do remember hearing the duracoat wins in the durability contest among spay "paints". i do think i am going to go with this. do you think it can be as durable as a bake-on gun-kote?
     
  5. bigbluedodge

    bigbluedodge

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    I have never used any of them but I would assume a "baked on finish" would be a better product, but you know what they say about asumptions, also I would asume that a 2 part paint system would be better. I know duracoat makes "durabake" also that is baked on. I also watched some videos on youtube where someone had put a paint or even a bake on coating on a part that got too hot like a AR-15 barrel when in "Rock and roll" and it would bake off the coating. However doing this on a pistol you should not have this problem, you can't coat the barrel, if you do the chamber area a bake on should be sufficent to not heat up and bake off. Again all you can do it look at yout, lube and search this site then just do it. Like I said before it looks like most coatings can come off!
     
  6. plouffedaddy

    plouffedaddy

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    [​IMG]

    That's an AK finished in Alumahyde II from Brownells. It's pretty durable stuff if you prep the surface and let it cure properly (takes about 2 weeks). I've done a few RIA 1911s in with it as well and it's held up pretty well.

    Get some additional spray nozzles if you order it though--it clogs up easily when spraying it.
     
  7. smokin762

    smokin762

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    I have been using Dura Coat for about 6 years now. Prepping the surface and allowing it to dry for 3-4 weeks according to the instruction sheet is very helpful with it's durability.

    Dura Coat also offers an additive now, that can help speed up the initial cure time. I haven't tried it though.

    I have painted Knives, Magazines, Complete Handguns and Rifles with Dura Coat. No problems to this day. Avoid painting the rails of slides. It will reduce the tolerances.

    This is my L1A1. I painted the complete Rifle.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. smokin762

    smokin762

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    My AR 10 type rifle. I mixed the color that I wanted and painted the Magpul MOE handguard and the butt stock.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. El Dami

    El Dami

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    I refinished an old pump shotgun with Alumahyde II. I cured it by baking it in the oven for something like 5 hours (not necessary, just faster). It is hard as nails and holds up to everything I throw at it. I, of course, would not suggest baking your frame. I would just let it cure for a couple weeks in a hot garage. If you go matte, beware. That matte stuff WILL clog an airbrush which means taking it apart and cleaning it alot. I just used a small needle to clear the hole until I was done spraying.