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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had trouble with my G30 gen 3 slide stop locking the slide back after every shot. After trying different things, I opened the spring up a little to create more tension. It seems to work better now. It also wouldn't let me "slingshot" the slide closed with no mag in place...stayed up, holding it back. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Guess I could replace it, but don't want the expense.
 

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In a a pre-Gen5 (or G30) slide-stop, the problem typically is caused by improper installation of the slide-stop and locking-block-pin.

Most likely, the locking block pin was not installed prior to putting the slide stop into place, then inserting the trigger pin through the frame, trigger, and slide-stop. This can occur when someone has removed the locking block pin for some reason.

Another cause is the slide-stop spring actually breaking. Inserting the locking-block-pin after the slide-stop was put into place can also pinch or bend the slide-stop's spring, which may cause the spring to later break. With insufficient spring tension, the slide stop will continually lock back the slide without a mag follower pushing the slide-stop up.

Any bending of the slide-stop spring is not the fix.
 

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I had trouble with my G30 gen 3 slide stop locking the slide back after every shot. After trying different things, I opened the spring up a little to create more tension.
The knucklehead that did the last detail strip on it obviously caused what L-2 describes by positioning the Slide Stop Lever wire spring end above the Locking Block Pin instead of BELOW the LBP.
Guess I could replace it, but don't want the expense.
You definitely need to replace it now that you've worked your mechanical magic on that SSL wire spring just as if it were some spring in a child's $2 jack-in-a-box.

If this G30 is not a just range toy only...if this G30 serves a serious purpose as a weapon for personal defense...is it sane to withhold $10 rather than to replace a suspect part critical to the proper operation of that weapon???

Gosh...just gosh.
 

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Just assemble the gun such that the slide stop lever spring is under the locking block pin.

You either assembled it so the tip of the spring was above the pin, or you broke the tip of the spring off hammering away on the locking block pin, wondering why it wouldn't go in.

When properly assembled, the tip of the slide stop lever spring can be seen under the locking block pin. This will assure enough tension on the spring to keep the slide stop lever where it belongs. A simple test is once you have the frame assembled, before you install the slide, pull up on the slide stop lever. It should snap back down briskly (under spring tension).

If you broke the tip of the slide stop lever spring off, you will need a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK....thanks for the advice. I didn't break the spring, and did have it positioned as stated above. No hammering, no forcing anything...it is working now but have been thinking about an extended one anyway. Again, thanks to all.
 

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Has anyone ever broke off that metal spring underneath the takedown switch into the frame? I was replacing some stock part for some upgrades and I’ve taken that spring out a thousand times with no problems but this tim it broke off before I could lift it out of the frame. Any know a way I can get it out? Cause I can’t put the new one in until I get that piece out.
 

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Transform & Win
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Has anyone ever broke off that metal spring underneath the takedown switch into the frame? I was replacing some stock part for some upgrades and I’ve taken that spring out a thousand times with no problems but this tim it broke off before I could lift it out of the frame. Any know a way I can get it out? Cause I can’t put the new one in until I get that piece out.
Hello Eric, welcome to Glock Talk. :welcome:

The following thread chronicles various suggestions to extract a broken fragment of the slide lock spring embedded in the frame. The OP of the thread decided to return the frame to Glock, Inc. (Post #74 in thread) and received a new frame for $42. After reading all the steps he had already attempted and the suggestions offered by others, I think he made the right decision to return the frame to Glock. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but this particular part failure can be one of the most difficult to fix.

 

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The knucklehead that did the last detail strip on it obviously caused what L-2 describes by positioning the Slide Stop Lever wire spring end above the Locking Block Pin instead of BELOW the LBP.

You definitely need to replace it now that you've worked your mechanical magic on that SSL wire spring just as if it were some spring in a child's $2 jack-in-a-box.

If this G30 is not a just range toy only...if this G30 serves a serious purpose as a weapon for personal defense...is it sane to withhold $10 rather than to replace a suspect part critical to the proper operation of that weapon???

Gosh...just gosh.
Geez, Mike - you need to quit beating around the bush and learn to talk more bluntly. Lol
 

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MacGyver
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If the spring is positioned correctly as you said, it may be your thumb flicking the lever during recoil. Bending the spring just masking the problem.
 

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I'm your huckleberry....
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Has anyone ever broke off that metal spring underneath the takedown switch into the frame? I was replacing some stock part for some upgrades and I’ve taken that spring out a thousand times with no problems but this tim it broke off before I could lift it out of the frame. Any know a way I can get it out? Cause I can’t put the new one in until I get that piece out.
I bought a new G30sf a few years ago. Before I could fire ONE round that flat spring broke flush with the frame upon disassembly to clean, lube prior to first use. Impossible to remove!

Had to send it back to the mothership. They couldn't fix it and I ended up with a slide and frame having 2 different serial nos. That's the only way to fix that annoying problem.
 
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