[X-Centric]

I know many people who reload their own ammunition and that there are many reasons for doing it. Along with other reasons, it can be a great hobby and a good way to save money too. Some I know have been doing it for over 30 years and reload to “factory” specifications or experiment with hotter or colder loads. Some reload for all of their shooting or just target shooting. Many who reload swear by their expertise and claim little or no failures. I know it’s to protect themselves from ambulance chasers but I think virtually all gun manufacturers recommend not shooting any reloads in their firearms I assume mainly because of some who reload too hot. I have used only a handful of reloads and it was in .38 special with a S&W revolver years ago and I had no problems. But I have seen however other people shoot reloads and I have seen failures. Some I know even had the bullet get stuck in the barrel (see question below). And one of these guys had whole lot of trouble getting the bullet out. I sometimes think about reloading myself and if I do I think I would do it for target shooting only and rely on popular name brand factory loads for self-defense. Can reloads be as safe, reliable and accurate as the factory ammunition that I have been shooting for all these years? Honestly, except for 22’s, I can’t remember ever having a fail-to-fire (FTF) that was ammunition related.
Speaking of a bullet getting stuck in a barrel, what is the best way to get it out? From the breech or from the muzzle?

 

[ArmoryDoc]

I only shoot my reloads. Even then, I know I'm subject to error as any human is. If you can remove it from the breach do that. A revolver you have to pound backwards from the muzzle with a cleaning or dowel rod.

 

[Zombie Steve]

I haven't bought a factory round in about 4 years. Better ammo at a fraction of the price. I haven't had a squib or double charge yet.

There are plenty of reloaders that are most concerned about how many rounds per hour they can produce. I'd say if you aren't meticulous and a little OCD it might not be for you. Some guys shoot one cartridge, buy a dillon press, set it up and never touch it for years. After going through load development for 6 different pistol cartridges and 5 rifle cartridges, I think I gained a lot better understanding loading. Some rounds like .45 Colt I have a cowboy action load, a standard pressure load, and a hunting load that all perform well. It really can become a hobby as fun as shooting itself, and the rabbit hole goes pretty deep. I'm casting bullets now too. :whistling::supergrin:

 

[michael e]

I have had a bullet get stuck in the barrel using factory S&B ammo, never had that issue with my loads, reloading is safe as long as you pay attention to what you are doing and do not overcharge a load. Only time I buy factory ammo is SD rounds and when I am low on brass and need to get some more, or cheap stuff for my AK. Every owners manuel I have read says do not use reloads, but it's more of a CYA thing I think. As for are they worth it, 9mm cost me less than half price, 40sw cost me about 1/3 and 45 about 1/4 of the price of factory ammo.

 

[Zombie Steve]

I guess to answer the main question - are they risky - I'd say no IF you follow safe load development procedures. You cross reference data for the particular thing you're trying, start with a lower powder charge and slowly work your way up to full power (if desired) checking for pressure signs along the way.

If you learn about burn rates and can pick the right powder for the job, you won't be doing anything that thousands of reloaders haven't done already.

If you want to do a little reading, pick up a copy of the ABC's of Reloading or I'd recommend the Lyman #49 manual, Speer 14 or Hornady 8. The manuals all go through the reloading process, then have hundreds of pages of data for all kinds of loads.

 

[El_Ron1]

Driving across a city negotiating intersections is far riskier. Most people hand their keys over to their high school aged kids.

 

[G19ftw]

If you use safe practices, you should not have a problem.

Even factory ammo will give you a dud, squib or blow up people's guns from time to time.

Winchester recalls a lot or two of ammo every month.

 

[M2 Carbine]

I have been shooting since the late 1950's. Most of that ammo has been my own reloads.
I have made mistakes, like missing putting powder in a case. Seldom, but it has happened.

Bottom line.
I don't have any figures to prove it but if the ratio of the problems I've had with hundreds of thousands of reloads is compared to the problems I've had shooting many thousands of factory rounds, the factory ammo is way more "risky" than reloaded ammo.

Like a lot of things. The activity is only as safe as the person in control.

Are they worth it?

As a rule of thumb, reloads (on your brass) cost half as much as the same factory ammo.
My reloads costs about $3.50 to $4.00 a box.
You have to decide for yourself if you shoot enough to spend the time and money to get into reloading.

Personally I couldn't shoot if not for reloading.
What would this cost in the store?

Speaking of a bullet getting stuck in a barrel, what is the best way to get it out? From the breech or from the muzzle?

Most of the time the bullet only travels an inch or so in the barrel. It's easy to push it backwards with a couple taps on a brass rod.

 

[m2hmghb]

Brass rod or an Oak or similar hard wood dowel.


I've been loading for over a decade now. Once you get used to things it's not that difficult. There is a learning curve as with everything. People say you pay half price for ammo, but that's incorrect. You generally shoot 2x as much ammo per range session. I've had squibs before, they can happen. The dreaded double charge is what you need to be vigilant for. That's why in cartridges like the 40 and the 357 sig they recommend a slower powder that fills the case more.

I'd suggest a single stage or turret press to start on. Before you buy anything get the ABCs of reloading and study it. It will help you a ton. Then buy 2-5 reloading manuals. I suggest the Lee manual as well as hornady and lyman.

 

[SauerChoi]

my question regarding reloads is, how many rounds do you have to actually reload to make up the money invested? I mean all the press, tumblers, scales, powder, brass, bullets, storage for the powder isn't cheap to invest into. I know the answers may differ with different calibers so lets just say, 9mm, which are about $10/box.

 

[wavetrain75]

If you're stupid, reloading is not safe. If you're not stupid, it's safe.

Usually figure about 1000 rounds of a common pistol caliber to get your money back.

 

[G19ftw]

my question regarding reloads is, how many rounds do you have to actually reload to make up the money invested? I mean all the press, tumblers, scales, powder, brass, bullets, storage for the powder isn't cheap to invest into. I know the answers may differ with different calibers so lets just say, 9mm, which are about $10/box.

Buy the equipment with the plan to use them forever. Don't get so caught up on short term pay offs.

And 9mm is not the best round to load if you are trying to save big, but the savings are there. But the savings are huge on expensive calibers like 357sig, 45gap, 10mm, etc, etc.

 

[Remington4Life]

I only shoot "factory" if I run out of reloads. The reloads I get are better than factory, never had a jam and flat shooting and still make production power factor.

 

[NEOH212]

I trust my reloads and the reloads of a few people that I shoot with. Since I know that we can produce quality reloads and don't skimp on components or quality control. I wouldn't shoot just anybodies reloads without knowing their reloading practices.

I have had a few bad experiences with work hardened brass that ruptured when I was purchasing remanufactured ammunition many years ago before I reloaded. It didn't damaged the gun but it sure got me thinking. It was those instances that started me into reloading and I haven't had a problem since. Is reloading worth it? It sure is, especially if you are a high volume shooter.

At the prices of factory new ammo, I couldn't shoot anywhere near as much as I do if I didn't reload. It's not risky business if you follow the guidelines in the reloading manuals and if the advice that your listening to is from a credible and experienced source. Always adhere to the load data and if you have any questions, call the manufacture of the product BEFORE you go any further. Attention to detail and double checking yourself and rechecking your equipment and reloads often will go a long way. Good luck.

 

[glock_19guy1983]

Sub MOA groups at bargain prices.....Reloading is worth it to me.

 

[cole]

The three (3) case failures I've had in Glocks were with factory ammo. My advice is to not reload... not worth it... more for me.

 

[COLOSHOOTR]

Reloading is perfectly safe and IMO you are slightly less likely to have ammo failures then with factory ammo if you are careful.... With factory ammo you do not know if your getting a light (causing a squib) or double charge (causing a Kb) by accident but with careful loading you know EXACTLY how much powder is in it and how deep the bullet is set.

my question regarding reloads is, how many rounds do you have to actually reload to make up the money invested? I mean all the press, tumblers, scales, powder, brass, bullets, storage for the powder isn't cheap to invest into. I know the answers may differ with different calibers so lets just say, 9mm, which are about $10/box.

Thats something that is really tough to answer and depends on what press you buy, the other equipment you get and prices you pay on comonents. I personally don't think 9mm is the best caliber to reload because it's cheap to begin with but you can load it up even cheaper then $10/box if you price your components right (usually means buying in bulk). You might come ahead faster if your shooting something like match grade rifle ammo. For example:

A kit and all the equipmet you need to start could cost you around $500 minimum and you'll find you'll end up spending more on stuff thats not absolutly needed but is nice to have so this is low ball.

I load match grade .308 costing about $580 per case (1000rds) on average when all said and done. It can be done cheaper if I'm very careful about pricing out components. On the other hand factory match ammo costs about $1500 per case. Thats a savings of $920 and should have covered your costs in that first 1k of rounds loaded. Plus my handloads are tailored to my gun squeezing out as much accuracy as I can.

There are so many variables that your pricing may be way different but it's an example of what you can save. On the other hand once you start reloading you tend to shoot more so it really evens out cost wise. You just get more shots per $$$$ after you start loading. You also have to spend a lot of time loading ammo and as the saying goes time=money.... So, think of it more as a long term investment rather than quick savings.

 

[Fox]

X-Centric,

Get the book "ABC's of Reloading", it will answer many of your questions.

 

[Tvov]

I don't reload as much as I used to, but I find it enjoyable and a whole other aspect of the "shooting sports".

As to getting a stuck bullet out of a barrel: Years ago I bought an inexpensive universal multi-piece cleaning rod. I always have it in my range bag. At least a couple times a year, someone at the gun range has a stuck bullet or some other reason to need something like a cleaning rod. Being an "extra" cleaning rod, I am not worried about beating it up. It is amazing how often it gets used.

Something like this:

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=113578

Most times, I find pushing from the end of the barrel towards the breach, with the butt of the gun on the ground or table to work best. Use a towel or something to protect the gun butt, and you may find that you really don't have to push all that hard, or just gently tap the cleaning rod.

(As always, make sure gun is unloaded, including magazine if equipped)

 

[X-Centric]

Thanks for all the great replies!
Please explain a "double charge".