archery experts... I'm having a bow problem. Help.

Discussion in 'Hunting, Fishing & Camping' started by rfb45colt, Oct 11, 2005.

  1. rfb45colt

    rfb45colt safe-cracker

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    I've been bow-hunting a lot of years, but I'm no expert on bows. I've got a 1997 vintage Mathews Z-Max, lefthanded bow. Draw weight is 55-65, draw length is 30". I've used this bow since '98. I recently had the string & harness replaced at a local archery shop. Now I can't even pull it back far enough to "break" into the let-off without a great deal of effort. I turned the draw weight down as far as I dare. The owner's manual says 1 complete turn of the limb bolt will lesson the weight by 3-4 lbs. I cranked them down (in) to the max (which should put the bow at approx it's max weight of 65lbs). I then backed the bolts out 3 complete turns each (one turn on the top, then one on the bottom, one more on the top, etc). This should put the draw weight near 55lbs. But it's still well over 70lbs on my deer scale. WTF??? I took it back to the archery shop, he checked things out, and says there nothing wrong, it's just that the new string has to be "stretched" a bit by using it. It needs to be "broken in". Problem is, I can't use it as it is, to break it in. There's no way in hell I can pull it confidently while sitting. I'm not a 98lb weakling. I'm 6'-2", 210lbs, and in pretty good shape.... but I am almost 56 yrs old. :(

    I still think something's not right... maybe he used the wrong string length, or harness, or something. Before it was re-strung, I had no problems pulling it from a sitting position, even when set at a much higher weight than what it is supposed to be at now.

    Does a new string set-up need that much "break-in"? I don't remember it being that hard to draw when it was brand new... I never would've bought it if it was. This is the 1st re-string job I've had done on it, so it's all new to me.
     
  2. noway

    noway

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    My 1st thought, did they place the right string on your bow?

    I've changed my string and cables on my last compound and it didn't require any breakin to get the draw weight back down. I would inquiry in to the archery shop and to what string did they put on and was it a OEM string. BUT a new string will stretch during breakin unless it was pre-stretch before installing or shipping.

    Also buy a finer graduated bow scale and use the deer scale for the deer ;)
     

  3. f1b32oPTic

    f1b32oPTic R4d104c71v3

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    check your axel to axel length by laying your bow on its side and measuring from pin to pin

    make sure that it is within 1/4" of spec

    then measure your brace height

    which is the measurement from your string to the back of the riser shelf...this should also be within 1/4" OF spec.


    if these measurements are off by more, chances are that you have the wrong length string or cables

    actually 3/8" is fairly decent for those measurements as well.
     
  4. rfb45colt

    rfb45colt safe-cracker

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    Axel to axel is supposed to be 36" (I think), and brace height is 8" (again, I think). But I'm not 100% sure of those specs. How do I find the correct specs? I'm going to measure it now, and I'll be back in a few minutes. Thanks.
     
  5. rfb45colt

    rfb45colt safe-cracker

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    Hmmmmm.... axel to axel is 34 5/8" (pin to pin), and brace height is 6 1/4" (from rear of arrow shelf in riser to string). I'm going to see if there's a Mathews web-site, and if there is, if they have the specs available for a 1997 Z-Max.

    The archery shop I took it to is not a Mathews dealer, but it is a Zebra string like Mathews uses. There's another archery shop about 30 miles away that IS a Mathews dealer (at least he was when I bought the bow there back in '98), and I may have to take it back there to figure this out. :(

    Edit: Here's the specs for my Z-Max.

    Specifications
    IBO Rating (FPS) (approx.) 320
    AMO Rating (FPS) (approx.) 245
    Cam(s) MaxCam
    Draw Weight 40, 50, 60, 70 lbs.
    Draw Length 26-30 in.
    Axle to Axle Length (approx) 35 in.
    Brace Height (approx.) 6 1/4 in.
    Physical Weight (approx.) 3 1/4 lbs.
    Letoff (%) 80% or 65%
    String/Cable Length - String 91 3/8" - Cable 38"

    Axel-axel is 3/8" shorter than specs, brace height is exact at 6 1/4". And backing the weight adjustment/limb bolts out 3 full turns is likely why the axel-axel is 3/8" shorter than specs. I'm going to try and measure the string & cable while they're on the bow, but it looks like it might be right too. Back to square one... looks like it's not the wrong string/cable. :(

    BTW.... My bow must be the 70lb max weight model, as there's not a 65lb max listed, as I thought it was. My owner's manual says all Mathews bows are adjustable down to 10lbs under max weight, and I originally had my draw weight set "down" to 62lbs on the archery shop's scale, back when it was new. I could draw it easily while sitting in a tree-stand for hours in the cold, and it still chronographed at 285 fps. I've shot it at 3-D shoots the past few summers with it cranked down to max weight, and it was chronographing close to 310fps at the 70lbs, with Gold Tip graphites. I'd always back the limbs out 2.5 turns for hunting season. Now it draws like 80lbs when it should be more like 60lbs where I've got it set now.
     
  6. f1b32oPTic

    f1b32oPTic R4d104c71v3

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    take your draw weight on a smaller scale...a deer scale may go up to 350lbs. or more degrading accuracy at lower poundage.

    also the fact that you have been using your string and cable for that many years is probably why the draw feels so different.

    from the measurements, it sounds like the right string and cable combo.

    "they" say replace strings and cables every year or 2000 shots whichever comes first.

    im shooting on last novembers strings and cables and have already seen and felt stretch occuring on my bowtech.
    its probably that you were just used to the feel of the old strings and cables that happened gradually over time
     
  7. rfb45colt

    rfb45colt safe-cracker

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    You (and Noway) are right about the scale, but's that all I have available. The exact poundage I'm pulling has never mattered much to me... if I can draw it comfortably while sitting up in a tree-stand with a bundle of warm clothing on, and it puts my arrows through deer at 40 yds... that's all I cared about. ;f

    If the string replacement interval is one year OR 2000 shots, I doubt I've shot 2000 arrows before having it restrung, but it has been a "few" years with the old one. ;) But you are right about the differance between old & new being somewhat of a "surprise"... I was expecting more draw resistance with a new string, but not this much. It was getting "weak"... that's why I had it re-strung. I let one of my hunting buddies try it yesterday, and all he said was "WTF!!!... is this 'AHNOLD'S' bow from Predator????" He couldn't draw it without a great deal of gruntin' & groanin' either, and he shoots a 70lb. bow and replaces his string every year. I tried his bow (PSE)... no comparison, and his is cranked down to the max weight of 70lbs. We both agreed mine was much harder to draw.

    I've lost 30lbs since last hunting season. I guess it was muscle, not fat. :(
     
  8. f1b32oPTic

    f1b32oPTic R4d104c71v3

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    well it seems that the only problem is that you arent shooting a bowtech^3
     
  9. ithaca_deerslayer

    ithaca_deerslayer

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    What we have here is a failure to provide service.

    You want your bow to shoot at 62 pounds (because that is what YOU want). Now, go to an archery shot that can provide that to you with your bow.

    That stuff about stretch seems like a load of BS to me. Yes, there will be some stretch. But shouldn't be THAT much.

    The point of an archery shop should be to provide service. Otherwise, we'd all do mail-order. If you shoot well at 62 pounds, then that is what they need to provide you.
     
  10. Nine29

    Nine29

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    This may be a dumb question but by any chance did they change the letoff?
     
  11. noway

    noway

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    I was going to say that also earlier and if the letoff was change he might be just feeling a heavier bow. Or if his bow cam was dented, I think this might make the bow feel heavier or an increased draw weight.Rfb45colt, did you try the matthew forums for any suggestions?


    Also not to pick on you, for a bow that vintage I would have invested in a compact bow press or a regular bow press and did my cables and strings myself. I've seen to many good bows go into so-called flyby night and upsy archery shops that damage or just don't do stuff to good or treat it right. At least if you are doing it, you would take the time and won't screw up any thing on purpose.