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Discussion Starter #1
Just curious.

With the current ammo crunch I have been shooting a lot of black powder because there isn’t a run on those supplies. Half the fun of shooting black powder is the loading process and the smoke, so it’s a way to enjoy some range time without worrying about shooting components I can’t replace.

I am considering trying to load up some paper cartridges just for fun. The historical accuracy part of it interests me. The here are some kits out there that come with a form that should make it pretty easy.

I am shooting an Uberti1851 Navy .36 and a Pietta 1858 Remington 44.

I am considering trying round ball and conicals. Though neither of my guns have been modified to load conicals, so I’m not sure if conicals will fit.

Anyone do it? And if so it is rewarding? Worth the expense and time?

ImageUploadedByOhub Campfire1606578114.116968.jpg
 

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Never made them for a revolver, but put together more than a few for a flintlock pistol. If I'm not mistaken, there are a couple of Youtube vids. that show exactly how to make them, specifically, for revolvers.
 

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If you haven’t already, check out duelist1954 on YouTube. He has videos on cartridge making, and modifications.

I have never done it, but I’m definitely interested in picking up an 1851 navy and giving it a go.
 

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If you haven’t already, check out duelist1954 on YouTube. He has videos on cartridge making, and modifications.

I have never done it, but I’m definitely interested in picking up an 1851 navy and giving it a go.
Love Mike.

If I could pick any gun personality on YouTube to spend a day on the range with Mike would be my guy.

I bet that would be a blast.

The 1851 Navy is the easiest to get into IMO. I think it should be everyone’s fist cap & ball. I bought the gun, shipped to my front door, for $250. A pound of Pyrodex P, 300 .375 round balls, a few hundred Remington #10 caps, and a tube of Bore Butter won’t set you back much at all and will keep you shooting for a long time.

I reccomened trashing the factory nipples before even heading to the range. Spend the $30 and replace them with Slix-Shot nipples and only shoot Remington no 10 caps. Presto, your cap & ball is now literally as reliable as a modern cartridge gun. I have hundreds of rounds fired from my Uberti and can only remember one misfire. With the old caps I had hangfires, misfires, cap jams. Atleast once every cylinder that I fired.

The one hang up I have had with the Slix Shot nipples wasn’t the gun’s fault. The priming material had fallen out of the cap. I now quickly check for that before I load the caps on the nipples. I bought 1k caps years ago, which lasts a lot longer than ever I thought it would, and then priming material is becoming prone to falling out of the caps as they have aged. Next time I will only buy a couple hundred at a time so I always have fresh caps.
 

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Love Mike.

If I could pick any gun personality on YouTube to spend a day on the range with Mike would be my guy.

I bet that would be a blast.

The 1851 Navy is the easiest to get into IMO. I think it should be everyone’s fist cap & ball. I bought the gun, shipped to my front door, for $250. A pound of Pyrodex P, 300 .375 round balls, a few hundred Remington #10 caps, and a tube of Bore Butter won’t set you back much at all and will keep you shooting for a long time.

I reccomened trashing the factory nipples before even heading to the range. Spend the $30 and replace them with Slix-Shot nipples and only shoot Remington no 10 caps. Presto, your cap & ball is now literally as reliable as a modern cartridge gun. I have hundreds of rounds fired from my Uberti and can only remember one misfire. With the old caps I had hangfires, misfires, cap jams. Atleast once every cylinder that I fired.

The one hang up I have had with the Slix Shot nipples wasn’t the gun’s fault. The priming material had fallen out of the cap. I now quickly check for that before I load the caps on the nipples. I bought 1k caps years ago, which lasts a lot longer than ever I thought it would, and then priming material is becoming prone to falling out of the caps as they have aged. Next time I will only buy a couple hundred at a time so I always have fresh caps.
Interesting you mention the priming material coming out, I had zero idea that was a thing. I’ll have to keep that in mind for long term storage. I’ve also read pyrodex doesn’t age well, but I don’t have any experience.

I just really have a strong appreciation for the history of these guns, being somewhat of a civil war nerd. All the time I’m on Dixie gun works looking for a good sale. One day I’ll make the jump!
 

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I have a few times, and used cigarette papers to make the cartridges with. They worked just fine.
 

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I have used cigarette paper with round balls in my navy. I used a little elmer's glue to hold the bullet in place.

They worked pretty well, just a bit tedious though. I need one of those kits made for this purpose.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Interesting you mention the priming material coming out, I had zero idea that was a thing. I’ll have to keep that in mind for long term storage. I’ve also read pyrodex doesn’t age well, but I don’t have any experience.

I just really have a strong appreciation for the history of these guns, being somewhat of a civil war nerd. All the time I’m on Dixie gun works looking for a good sale. One day I’ll make the jump!
The issue with the caps is new to me. The haven’t shot much cap & ball in the last few years until recently. It was only after my caps had been sitting in the shop for a long time that I noticed issues with the priming material coming out. Sure enough in the bottom of the tin there is quite a few little green circles of the priming material that has separated out.

I haven’t had an issue with Pyrodex that I’ve noticed. I’ve got some that is several years old, stored indoors, but not climate controlled and it still shoots fine.

I know a lot of blackpowder guys prefer the holy black Goex, but I just don’t care for it. I have a pound of it, but prefer Pyrodex.

With Pyrodex I can shoot 48-60 balls without the cylinder binding or being hard to seat the balls. With real black powder I am lucky to get 18 shots before I start having issues, and that’s with heavy lube from bore butter over each ball.

Usually when I take out the cap and ball guns there are some friends along for the ride that want to try them out and I end up shooting as many as 60 balls.

I’m actually looking at getting a .31 pocket revolver now. I have resisted for a long time but all this crap and ball y’all has me wanting one.

Sounds silly, but I have some family land I spend some time on, and I often load up one of the cap and ball revolvers to carry when I’m on the farm. And I feel surprisingly well armed, even with the .36 which I would equate to about a .32 auto in power.
 

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The issue with the caps is new to me. The haven’t shot much cap & ball in the last few years until recently. It was only after my caps had been sitting in the shop for a long time that I noticed issues with the priming material coming out. Sure enough in the bottom of the tin there is quite a few little green circles of the priming material that has separated out.

I haven’t had an issue with Pyrodex that I’ve noticed. I’ve got some that is several years old, stored indoors, but not climate controlled and it still shoots fine.

I know a lot of blackpowder guys prefer the holy black Goex, but I just don’t care for it. I have a pound of it, but prefer Pyrodex.

With Pyrodex I can shoot 48-60 balls without the cylinder binding or being hard to seat the balls. With real black powder I am lucky to get 18 shots before I start having issues, and that’s with heavy lube from bore butter over each ball.

Usually when I take out the cap and ball guns there are some friends along for the ride that want to try them out and I end up shooting as many as 60 balls.

I’m actually looking at getting a .31 pocket revolver now. I have resisted for a long time but all this crap and ball y’all has me wanting one.

Sounds silly, but I have some family land I spend some time on, and I often load up one of the cap and ball revolvers to carry when I’m on the farm. And I feel surprisingly well armed, even with the .36 which I would equate to about a .32 auto in power.
My biggest hurdle is not having land to shoot on. No where to really shoot for fun, other than some land my uncle owns in West Virginia but that’s like 5hrs away.

Those 36 caliber balls have killed plenty of people in the past, they are still more then capable of doing the job if you do yours!

Why Remington caps? I see plenty of CCI locally.
 

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It may be the equivalent of the .32 ACP in power, but I think the .375 soft lead round ball punches a little above its weight due to the shape and velocity. Elmer Keith(!) even spoke well of it. I have a Remington New Model that I have yet to use, but I've often wished for an 1851 Navy, just because I think it was the first practical personal repeating handgun (Dragoons aside!).

The Remington was a superior revolver but came (about 1863-ish), at the end of the cap-and-ball era. I believe most users during the Civil War era carried paper cartridges. Does anyone know if they were in use during the 1850s?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My biggest hurdle is not having land to shoot on. No where to really shoot for fun, other than some land my uncle owns in West Virginia but that’s like 5hrs away.

Those 36 caliber balls have killed plenty of people in the past, they are still more then capable of doing the job if you do yours!

Why Remington caps? I see plenty of CCI locally.
The Slixx Shot nipples are made specifically for Remington no 10 caps.

Was not a problem at first because local Gander Mtn carried no 10 Remingtons. But when they closed there is no other source locally.

CCI is all thats available in the local shops now.
 
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