Another project completed

Discussion in 'General Firearms Forum' started by Nestor, Oct 24, 2020.

  1. Nestor

    Nestor Lean & Mean

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    Got these two 94's around a year ago. 32 Special really cheap (bore had some corrosion going on, someone scratched the link with id number and make some cuts to the forend...perhaps the number of deer harvested). 30-30 wasn't cheap, but it came with the pristine bore and compass embedded in the butt stock...right where my cheek suppose to rest. Slowly I started working on them and today it's (nearly) done. Both were made in the 1950's and were full of gunk, dry grass and nowhere near being smooth. Each of them was cleaned, lubricated, cycled over 3000 times, cleaned again (man...some metal shavings were getting flushed out after that), lubricated again...and now these are very smooth, accurate blasters. I may order some screws to replace the old ones on the rear barrel band and I sourced the clean link to replace the scratched one...but it may wait couple of months. 30-30's wood is more matte, 32 Special, slightly more shiny. So I would like to share some before and after pictures with You.

    Before
    32 Special
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    rusty bore
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    30-30
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    After
    32 Special bore now (may still need to polish it slightly)
    [​IMG]

    together
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    Last edited: Oct 24, 2020
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  2. Nestor

    Nestor Lean & Mean

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    This is my next project. Easy. Wood is cracking on the inside. Love winter as it comes with a lot of basement time :)

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. R.B. Riddick

    R.B. Riddick

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    Very nice work!!!
     
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  4. spork

    spork Caffeinator

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    Job well done!
     
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  5. Nestor

    Nestor Lean & Mean

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    Thank You Gents. Love my old gun clinic. I'm always thinking what those firearms "seen" over the years. I have a nice SMLE coming next :)
     
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  6. Dynactus

    Dynactus The wind serenades a purified man.

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    I enjoy seeing your work. I would request that you post more information and photographs.
     
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  7. Valmet

    Valmet M62/76 Silver Member

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    That’s a nice brace of 94s...well done OP
     
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  8. 1bigK

    1bigK

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    What will you do about the wood cracking on the inside of the grips? Anything?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  9. Nestor

    Nestor Lean & Mean

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    When it comes to 94's I discover that the guys working at the factory didn't care too much about the tolerances back in the 50's (even less later from what I know). For example. The screw holding the forend in place (rear barrel band screw is the proper name I believe) was bent on both of the rifles. That's QC issue connected with the screw cuts in the barrel and magazine tube done too far back in relation to the location of the barrel band itself. So...I had to remove about 1/16 of an inch of the steel up front, toward the muzzle from the cut (both on the barrel and magazine) to fit it properly. The screws were recycled and straightened up, but I feel like I will order the brand new ones soon. That being said...the steel is first grade. I'm impressed with it along with the machining. Awesome job. Too bad Winchester wasn't able to put all those beautiful parts together properly. Action itself is just a piece of art. For a lever action it's strong and very easy to clean without taking the rifle apart.
     
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  10. Nestor

    Nestor Lean & Mean

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    Epoxy. Oil on the outside with very, very light sanding and heavy (non toxic) degreasing.
     
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  11. Nestor

    Nestor Lean & Mean

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    Sorry for the long post, but here is what you need to do to keep your wood looking like a wood, but making it nearly indestructible (I would know about the elements living so far up North...it's going to be minus 6 F tonight).

    My wood treatment:

    Basically anything that dries quickly (most of the finishes available on the market like Tung Oil, Danish Oil or even the gun stock specific oils of different brands) will never penetrate wood deep enough to provide a good protection in the long term. They all just dry too quickly to sink into the wood. So they are going to be ON the wood and not IN the wood... in other words it's just going to be a thin shell over the actual wood. A lot of them contains (despite the names suggesting something else) Linseed Oil with some chemical driers to speed up the process. That would be fine if the wood itself would be stabilized deeper too, but most of the times...it's just not the case. High humidity, heat, cold...and the wood under the finish is "working" shrinking and expanding. It can also start rotting and I've seen all kinds of weird fungi. I will never forget a stock on a Mosin that I bought as the last one from the box (with significant discount). From under the action a white fluffy thing was growing on both sides of the stock, even though the wood itself looked ok. I was able to fix it eventually, but one doesn't want that kind of stuff on expensive wood for sure.
    So our goal should be to find an oil that dries slow, but...dries eventually. Raw linseed oil doesn't. It sits in the wood forever making it softer and it may eventually promote developing a mold. It also offers very limited protection against the elements.
    Pure tung oil on the other hand dries completely, but it takes usually (depending on the temperature) 7 to 10 days for one coat to dry. In the meantime for 7 to 10 days it penetrates the wood providing a solid base on which we can build in the future.
    I'm usually removing completely the old finish exposing the wood, making sure to degrease it VERY well and as deep as possible. If there is any kind of mold it has to be addressed before any, next step. There are many products on the market specifically designed to accomplish that, but don't go too toxic or aggressive. Your face and hands would be in contact with this wood after all. You can look for a small, hairline cracks and use a good glue (very small amount) to address this issue. Any holes or cuts made previously in the wood must be fill in by a wood filler. Let the filler to dry. Sand the wood after and clean any dust. Stain the wood if that's what You want to do. Let the stain dry. Start applying the pure tung oil. First coat can be thick and you will literally see how it goes into the wood. Remove any remaining oil on the surface after 30-40 minutes using a clean cloth (that won't leave that fluff behind). Next coats should be thin.
    Three to five coats of pure tung oil (they don't sell it in the big box stores) should be enough to stabilize the wood inside, but eight would be even better. Remember that the oil has to be applied everywhere on the wood. Outside, inside, into any openings. To enhance the look of the wood second and each following coat can be applies while using a sandpaper of 800 grit. This way the wood dust will mix with the fresh oil making the wood looking better. This is the longest part of the job. Allow a week between each coat.
    Next stage is Minwax Antique Oil. Usually 5-6 coats will do the trick, but it's up to you really. You can apply it using a nitrile gloves rubbing the oil into the wood. It dries fully within 24 hrs. Take a steel wool and sand (not too hard initially - be gentle as you don't want to go deep, be superficial) the last coat off. Clean the dust and apply another coat. Keep repeating the process, so all the natural openings (wood is porous) will get sealed eventually. Finish would be in the wood and not on it. It will look more natural and offer more protection.
    Once you're done with Antique Oil, you will see a very shiny layer of the last coat on the outside. We don't want it (unless that's what you like), but a Walmart scrubbing pad will help you (the green one first). Start slightly scrubbing the finish, just to knock down the shine. It should be more matt at this point. Grab a blue pad and do it again, again very lightly.
    Clean any dust. With the shop towel apply two coats of Old English Lemon oil with 24 hrs between each coat. Take the clean shop towel and polish the surface. Done deal!
    You have the famous egg shell luster and your wood would be protected forever.
    Any scratches on the surface can be touched up later with the Antique Oil if necessary BTW.
    Cheers!
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2020
  12. flyover

    flyover

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    Very nice work!
     
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  13. Mikegti

    Mikegti

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    Nice looking Winchesters. Ya done good.
     
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  14. Nestor

    Nestor Lean & Mean

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    Thank You. Most of the old firearms were made better than the ones available on the market today. Time however knows no mercy. I just believe that these rifles truly deserve the very best, so they can last for years to come. Even 60-70 years ago the factories were no strangers to cutting the corners, so if I have a chance to fix some of these issues... it's always a great deal of satisfaction to me.
     
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  15. G19Tony

    G19Tony Sneet CLM

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    Those are beautiful. Well done, Adam. :thumbsup:
     
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  16. Nestor

    Nestor Lean & Mean

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    Thank You kindly Tony. These are part of the Great American legend.
     
  17. 1bigK

    1bigK

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    You probably know this already, but you should try and pack the splits with epoxy/sawdust blend as a way to stabilize any movement and bridge the cracks. I am always amazed with how much that can stabilize any wood item.


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  18. Nestor

    Nestor Lean & Mean

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    I'm always trying to preserve the sawdust from the clean walnut. Comes handy quite often indeed :)
     
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  19. bac1023

    bac1023

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    Looks awesome Nestor :cool:
     
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  20. steve1911

    steve1911

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    Great job.


    1911club#410
     
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