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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. My name is Liam and I'm pretty new to the world of Glocking much less the Glock forum. So as the title may convey, I am seeking the wisdom of the Glock Talk forum on an issue I am having with my polymer80 spectre frame that I completed just recently.

So to go into detail on the build, I have put together a glock 24 with a 9mm conversion barrel both of which I got from Lone oWlf. The slide was completed with a kit I got from a gun show vendor who was advertising caliber conversions. Lastly, the frame parts were an "OEM Kit" which I had purchased off of Trick Glocks. What weirded me out about the kit was that the trigger had a smooth face on it and not a normal serrated one.
So the other night I went with my dad to the local gun club to test it out, and the gun was ejecting and chambering the next round. It was even going fully into battery, but the trigger was not resetting all the way however when I manually racked the slide it would reset the trigger. What weirded me out about this was that I wasn't even moving the slide a full centimeter back with my hand and that was enough to reset the trigger.
Any advice on my peculiar issue would be greatly appreciated guys, Thank you for reading.
 

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Don't understand shooters who think they are gunsmiths..... Just because you can assembly a bunch of aftermarket parts doesn't mean you know how a Glock works. I've put over 400,000 rounds thru various Glocks since 1992 without issues, but then they are OEM.
 

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I get it, shame on me for even daring to buy into marketing and customer referrals on a product has lead me to believe that I with my dremmel and drill press could finish a pistol which only the glorious Gaston Glock could produce.

One of my friends who is just as inexperienced as I am put on of these together and his works fine. Thats why I stsrted one. I dont think im a gun smith and i dont think next i can go and weld together an ak reciever and make that work too. I'm just wondering if there is anyone who has had an issue with one of these, because I obviously assembled it improperly some how.
 

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Check the position of your slide stop lever spring. I've seen that bind up and keep it from reseting every time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Check the position of your slide stop lever spring. I've seen that bind up and keep it from reseting every time.
I checked that and made sure that the spring was under the top pin. Yet the glock won't fully reset the trigger while I'm holding it down.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also check the trigger spring. Make sure it's positioned under the trigger bar connection and not to the side.

My spring was backwards in the group, however after switching this backwards I'm still not getting a proper reset with the trigger held down.
 

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I checked that and made sure that the spring was under the top pin. Yet the glock won't fully reset the trigger while I'm holding it down.
Your slide stop spring should be in the notch on the locking block pin. Make sure it is there
 

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Full size Glocks normally come with a smooth faced trigger. Only the imported compacts and sub-compacts have to use the grooved "target trigger" for import points. I know you say you got an "OEM frame parts kit", but how sure are you that the connector is an unmodified OEM one? When installed in the trigger housing, does the top stick out a bit from the housing, allowing it act as a leaf spring as intended?

It's perfectly normal for a Glock to reset the trigger after only about 1/4-1/2" of slide movement.
 

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Even with a broken trigger return spring, the trigger should reset as long as the shooter is staying on the trigger and holding it back during follow-thru. That said, I recall having a similar problem with an aftermarket 3.5 lb connector in a G17. I solved the problem by swapping the OEM connector back to the gun and not playing with aftermarket parts. I know nothing about these 80 percent frames. Drone what I understand, the "100" percent aftermarket frames work well, but require the transaction to acquire be conducted by an FFL.


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On the Border
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Just ignore the negativity.

Go through and check each part for proper function. There are some good suggestions above. I would look closely at the connector, and try swapping it with another one.

It's not difficult to understand how the Glock design functions in concept. But there are definitely some nuances to how all the parts work together.

The Glock armorer mantra is "put it back to stock", which works fine if you want a stock gun. But if you don't, you may have to do a little more legwork. Observing the function of a stock gun can be very helpful, though.
 

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I get it, shame on me for even daring to buy into marketing and customer referrals on a product has lead me to believe that I with my dremmel and drill press could finish a pistol which only the glorious Gaston Glock could produce.

One of my friends who is just as inexperienced as I am put on of these together and his works fine. Thats why I stsrted one. I dont think im a gun smith and i dont think next i can go and weld together an ak reciever and make that work too. I'm just wondering if there is anyone who has had an issue with one of these, because I obviously assembled it improperly some how.
Ignore the negative comments. GT is full of shade-tree gunsmiths that aren't happy until they've ground off the finger grooves and stipple the gun until it's no longer recognizable, swapped the barrel and all the internals from some Joe-Fly-by-Night. You're in good company here.
 

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There's also an issue with the trigger pocket being too big and causing the trigger housing to rock inside. The fix is to cut a credit card to fit in front of the trigger housing in the trigger pocket to tighten it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm going to definitely try using a new connector on it and hope that has something to do with it. If all else fail, I have found a shop near by me that's just shady enough that they will fix an 80 percent lower. (The guy offered to stipple mine and do part installations)
 

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I just helped a buddy troubleshoot his P80 build and it was the rear rail block. Apparently P80 has had some quality issues. In this case, if you held the trigger back, the trigger bar would run into the rear rail piece. There were some nasty burrs that were stopping the trigger bar from moving up into the position where the sear can catch the pin for the reset. After a little filing and smoothing of that surface, it ran just fine. I know this is late, but I hope it helps someone else!
 

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Have Gun Will Travel
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You should contact the manufacturer. They may be aware of the issue and have a solution available to you. Good luck!
 

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Your problem is not well described in your post.
Does the gun fire?

Gun does eject and load the next round with manual racking the slide, or firing?

Does, or Does not reset trigger when firing?

Resets when you manually pull back on the slide, after it initially failed to reset?

The connector is too flush against the side of the trigger housing-- take it and bend outward in the direction of the rail-- you don't even have to take it out, just a tiny bit, so it has spring to it and it is not so flush. It acts as a leaf spring to reset the trigger.

It will now reset.
 
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