Had this since the 1980's and have made several useful modifications including a 1/2" recoil pad, rubber cheek weld (to prevent facial cuts) and an extended magazine (7+1). I wanted a Vickers sling but didn't like the limited stud mount options being very limited, and so I made my own. I made a 360° swiveling sling stud out of 7/16" aluminum bar stock. I also altered the front "Scattergun Technologies" sling plate by adding a loosely mounted swivel stud to it. The loose Uncle Mike's stud allows the sling to rotate 180° on the plate. Both sling studs allow removal of the sling. A big advantage since installing the sling is now I can fire the gun while sighting down the barrel when the gun is in folded position without getting a broken nose, as I can push hard against the sling (forward & away from me) to prevent the shotgun from recoiling back into my face. A tactical light and reflex red-dot are next. Fastening the sling to the joint in front of the wood forearm keeps the front area clear for a flashlight. In this photo below, I have 3 Harbor Freight "O" rings installed onto the 7/16" aluminum stud, but if your preference is to have the sling-swivel tight up against the gun, then 1, 2, or all 3 rubber rings can be removed. Below photo is view from the top with folder stock extended. Photo below; 7/16" aluminum stud is held in place with a removable cotter-pin. I used a #2 Exacto Knife for 7/16" bar stock. It fits snug in joint while swiveling. The hole is already pre-drilled for you in the knife. Use JB-Weld or regular epoxy to hold the Uncle Mikes stud & the short cross pin at the top permanently in place.(The short pin is what holds everything together. The glue just keeps everything neat and firmly in place without budging.) The short X-Acto 7/16" bar at the bottom is scrap. "Scattergun Technologies" sling mount available at Midway. Photo below; The "Scattergun Technologies" mount plate with a basic Uncle Mikes's sling swivel which is allowed to rotate in the plate. The stud is held in place with two small nuts and a lock washer between them. The 2 nuts are tightened against each other. They do not tighten the sling swivel stud to the plate mount. The swivel stud is allowed to swivel around loose in a circle in the mount. I put a small plastic red cap over the sharp stud threads. If I wanted, I could saw off the stud right up to the lock nut and eliminate that 1/2" length of red cap. But my hand never goes that far forward on the forearm anyway for it to get in my way. Photo above; BTW, the mount looks slightly crooked in the photo. That is because I threw it on there quick to take a fast picture. Not to worry, as I can attest that this plate does slip onto that magazine joint straight and TIGHT! Photo below; A scrap piece of aluminum or steel is sawed and filed to shape to fit and fill the slot.