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A simple recipe for reloading. 40 s&w in my Glock

  1. I spent a few hours looking for basic information for reloading .40 and my head and eyes are spinning. I used to load .357 with my single stage Lyman 3 piece set about 30 years ago and I used a simple recipe. Now, I have all that stuff yet but I'd like to reload .40

    I saw sintered bullets. Since bullets are scarce, are they safe for my Glock?

    I have quality factory ammo set aside for defense. I just want to go to the range and shoot at targets.

    Can anyone point me to a simple recipe? Recommend a bullet, a power name and charge, and primer. That's all I want. Target shooting at 25 yards only.

    Thanks
     
  2. Recommend looking at any of the many producers of Hi-Tek coated cast bullet suppliers. 180 grains is standard, and they run very well in my Glocks.

    4.5 grains of Accurate No. 2 is what I'm currently burning through at about 900 fps with a coated cast bullet. Whatever primer. 1.125". Please double-check the load Accurate online manual since I'm prone to typos.

    If you want a slower velocity, try WST.
     
  3. Another comment. Powders are scarce, but there are many that will work for 40 target fodder.

    Unique
    No. 5
    WSF
    Silhouette
    231
    Universal
    HS-6
    N340
    No. 7
    Sport Pistol
    Etc.

    Pretty much anything around the Unique burn speed. Post the powder that you find and folks here can help dial you in.
     
  4. 4.0 gr. of Alliant Sport Pistol powder, Berry's 180 gr. plated FP bullet, at a COAL of 1.140" works well in my Glock 33 with a Glock 27 .40 S&W Storm Lake barrel ... mild load.
     
  5. Well you already messed up your simple recipe with Sintered bullets. Reloading isnt that diff. Do you have a current reloading manual? Flip it open find the bullet weight you want & a powder you can get then use the middle data. It wont matter much if the bullets are plated, coated lead or jacketed. That is the lazy way but its simple. For rokkies, I suggest medium burners like Unique, WSF, be86, universal, PowerPistol, aa#7, hs6.
     
  6. I don't think anything is simple any more although we may be near peak crazy. What's simple is that you can't get the bullet, powder or primers you want. So start with getting primers and then bullets and then come back and ask for a simple load and hopefully there is a powder that is available.
     
  7. loading 40 S&W isn't any more difficult than loading 357 Mag and just like the 357 Mag, there are a lot of powder and bullet combinations that will work.

    you'll need the right dies and components to use with your Lyman SS, the problem is finding what you need.

    start looking for the powders and bullets that have been suggested above, you'll need a supply of brass and small pistol primers, once you have everything together, you'll need data, a good reloading manel will not only have data but explain the reloading process, most powder manufacturers have data on line.

    just have no expectation of walking into a big box sporting goods store and finding anything, gun shows may be your best bet but plan on paying a premium.

    if you've not stocked up on components during times of plenty, you aren't reloading during times like this.
     
  8. Thanks for the tips.

    My Lyman loading manual is from the ‘60s when I started reloading and .40 didn’t exist. So is my powder of which I have several types.

    I had a 30-30 and started reloading as a young teen. I used a certain weight of powder for a certain brand. I guess I overloaded by using the wrong combo. I had 6 reloads and my girlfriend and I went shooting. I shot the first 5 and it was getting harder and harder to bolt out the casings. She wanted to shoot the last one and luckily she wore prescription glasses because the gun blew apart and shattered her glasses. I’m not sure how she explained that to Mom. I was standing beside her and watching her take aim and then then there was no more gun! She had the stance, arms out, and just air was in her arms. The gun was scattered on the ground.

    So my powder is from the ‘60s and maybe some from the ‘70s and it’s dry but maybe I don’t want to chance it. I’ll take a drive to Cabelas and see what they have.

    What’s the story with sintered bullets?
     
  9. your above story goes to show how important it is to be sure of every aspect of the reloading process and testing what you reloaded, you lost a rifle and a pair of glasses, it could have been worse.

    you don't just "load'em and go" but working up a load also includes firing a small amount of test rounds to verify proper function in your firearms, the sticky extraction you experienced would have caused me to stop and inspect my brass for signs of over pressure and I would have pulled the bullets to verify charge weight.

    you didn't mention any reloading equipment other than your press, if you don't have them, look into a good scale and a set of check weights, this way you can verify powder charges before they get into the case, to me, the most important aspect of reloading.
     
  10. Tell us everything you have and use to measure powder charges. Their is a big difference to loading 40 s&w and 357, it is the crimp. So before you even load the powder make sure your crimp is straight and not putting any scrapes on the bullet especially for the Hi-Tech bullet noted earlier. We call it a crimp but it is really just straightening the wall of the cartridge. With 357 you used a roll crimp. If you do that with 40s&w you could also blow-up this gun. So if you do find bullets make sure you pull your 1st bullets to make sure your crimp is not deforming the bullet at all. Also get a case gauge to make sure your bullet fits the barrel. If it fits the case gauge and is flush with the top of the gauge, your crimp is good you still have to pull the bullet to make sure no deformation.
     
  11. almost impossible to blow up a rifle unless you use a completely wrong powder.
     
  12. Xtreme 180 grain plated bullet, 4.0 grains of Red Dot, any primer. 850 fps all day long.
     
  13. This will get u up to 1992.
    40 load data 2.jpg 40 load data 1.jpg
    Single stage these in blocks of 50. Powder visual is the most important for me. Not sure what state you are in, but components can be had in most. Hunt and Peck, visit some ranges ask around. PM me I will help you find what you need.
     
  14. Cabelas likely won't have any powder right now. But while you're there, it would be a good idea to snag a newer loading manual. The Lyman 50th edition paperback is a good value. The powder manufacturers also all have reloading data online.

    If your powder hasn't gone rancid, it is probably fine IF it is a suitable burn speed. I have used some very old powder these past couple of years. What type of powder do you have?
     
  15. 180 sns cast bullet, coated. 3.8 grains of WST and the primer of your choice. Mild, accurate and fun
     
  16. Way back when I believe it was more common to load rifle with reduced charges of shotshell powders. I used a couple of old tins of Unique that state, "Rifle, Pistol, Shotgun Powder". And of course cast bullet rifle shooters still use shotshell powders. So yeah, way easy to get oneself into big trouble in a hurry!

    [​IMG]
     
  17. The Sintered bullets are generally light for caliber, so you wont really find accurate data for them, plus they tend to be quite expensive compared to say coated lead.
     
  18. Yeah, if I had wisdom, lol. The word "safety" didn't appear anywhere rural Pennsylvania German society. When I turned 12, my Dad bought my brothers and I rifled. The extent of the safety talk was maybe to not scratch the door going out. And boy did we have fun !

    Its the truth about the 3030. The stock separated from the chamber area when that section blew into pieces and only the barrel survived.

    I have to write down some of the powders and go to Cabela or call them and then we'll continue this quest.

    I'm glad you all took the time to get me started.
     
  19. What's up with the shortages? Is it the virus or are people stocking up ? I know there is a line out the door at the gun store here
     
  20. I schooled my granddude on reloading his S&W M&P .40 on Sunday. We used some lead 155gr bullets from Midway and 5.5gr of W231 because I bought an 8# jug to use during this time (and probably until I die!) cuz I am a lo-volume loader. Junior hasn't gotten chance to try it out but they, theoretically, should be good. 5.5gr of W231 was right at or slightly below mid-range. I am waiting for his report.
     
  21. Here's what I have. I'm sure the powders that I mixed up on the 30-30 are there.
    The Unique costs $4.65 and the 2400 was $6.90. The smaller can of unique remains unopened.

    My Lyman press, bullet hammer and powder measure with several metering tubes.

    I bought the 4 set dies from Lyman for the. 40 and a small tumbler. That's the point when I needed advice.
     
  22. 20200923_173929.jpg
     
  23. Unique is a great powder in 40, especially if you use coated lead.
     
  24. Rather than mid-range plinking loads, I suggest you work up a full power load you match the defensive loads that you will use for serious social purposes.

    I recommend the Loadbooks USA manual for 10mm/40 S&W. it will have the most data for comparative purposes from all major sources all in one book.

    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012856166?pid=414298
     
  25. I have unique. Its dry but old. 60s or 70s.

    Cabella has quite a bit. IMR 4227, HSG Hodgegon,international, tite was, lil gun.
     
  26. The Unique that you have is a great powser. If by HSG you meant HS-6, that's also suitable. The others you not from Cabelas are not.

    The tin of Unique in your pic looks just like the one in my pic above. I used that in 2019 or 2018.
     
  27. Looking at the comments, I will get some 180 gr. coated bullets and use my Unique powder and some of the other tools recommended.

    What type of scale within reason?

    Tell me a little more about deformed bullets. My die set has the taper tool.
     
  28. I bought a RCBS 505 beam scale and a set of Lyman check weight some 30 years ago and have never needed anything else.

    I looked for RCBS scales on line but couldn't find a 505, Ohaus makes a scale that looks identical to my 505 except for the color, can't speak to its quality but if it is anything like my 505, it will do the trick, the check weights I have from Lyman are still avalible, both linked below

    https://www.amazon.com/OHAUS-303932...=1&keywords=rcbs+scale&qid=1600975906&sr=8-10

    https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Shoote...&keywords=check+weights&qid=1600976426&sr=8-5
     
  29. The current production Ohaus reloading scales are not what they used to be. Ohaus licensed production to a Chinese supplier, and they aren't made the same. I called Ohaus and talked with them about that. It isn't really an Ohaus scale.

    The advice for a 505 is sound, though. I would search for an old used copy on Ebay or another classified site. They come up a lot. Anything RCBS with the old green on white packaging is likely the old US made Ohaus scale. Those are excellent.

    Like this. The instructions are marked Omark Industries and that was prior to Ohaus outsourcing manufacturing.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/RCBS-Model...251762?hash=item4220b01372:g:-hkAAOSwk-BfZNbl
     
  30. Can the weight be calibrated on the old scale?

    Not finding any primers. Checked lots of internet suppliers. Any ideas?
     
  31. Not sure I understand the question about the scale. Would you please expand on in?

    Regarding primers, persistent looking. They are snatched up as quickly as they come into stock.
     
  32. My bad. I thought it was digital. I just bid on one from a previous link
     
  33. the 505 scale basically has 3 points of contact with whatever flat surface it sits on, the point of contact closes to the beam indicator is a screw that is used to zero the scale, from the pivot point of the beam to the pan is where 1.0 and 0.1 grain adjustments are made and from the pivot point of the beam to the beam indicator is where 10.0 grain adjustments are made, with the empty pan in place and all 3 weight adjustment set at zero, turning the screw raises or lowers the scale body causing the beam indicator point to point to zero.

    when I have determined a charge weight I use the check weights to get as close as I can to that weight and verify/re-zero the scale, as an example if my charge weight is 4.8 grains, I set the scale for 5.0 grains and use the 5.0 grain check weight to verify, then set the scale to 4.8 grains to weight the charge.
     
  34. That's precisely how I use check weights. More than once it has alerted me to being in between a poise.
     
  35. There's a great article by Duane Thomas in the 2017 Bluepress starting on page 48-62 about how to load coated bullets to not deform or damage the coating. If you don't load them properly you can lead the barrel really good. As far as scales, I use a digital scale frankford arsenal from midsouth shooting supply. https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/000591311078/mec-100r-digital-reloding-scale-kit