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I spent a few hours looking for basic information for reloading .40 and my head and eyes are spinning. I used to load .357 with my single stage Lyman 3 piece set about 30 years ago and I used a simple recipe. Now, I have all that stuff yet but I'd like to reload .40

I saw sintered bullets. Since bullets are scarce, are they safe for my Glock?

I have quality factory ammo set aside for defense. I just want to go to the range and shoot at targets.

Can anyone point me to a simple recipe? Recommend a bullet, a power name and charge, and primer. That's all I want. Target shooting at 25 yards only.

Thanks
 

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Recommend looking at any of the many producers of Hi-Tek coated cast bullet suppliers. 180 grains is standard, and they run very well in my Glocks.

4.5 grains of Accurate No. 2 is what I'm currently burning through at about 900 fps with a coated cast bullet. Whatever primer. 1.125". Please double-check the load Accurate online manual since I'm prone to typos.

If you want a slower velocity, try WST.
 

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Another comment. Powders are scarce, but there are many that will work for 40 target fodder.

Unique
No. 5
WSF
Silhouette
231
Universal
HS-6
N340
No. 7
Sport Pistol
Etc.

Pretty much anything around the Unique burn speed. Post the powder that you find and folks here can help dial you in.
 

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4.0 gr. of Alliant Sport Pistol powder, Berry's 180 gr. plated FP bullet, at a COAL of 1.140" works well in my Glock 33 with a Glock 27 .40 S&W Storm Lake barrel ... mild load.
 

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Well you already messed up your simple recipe with Sintered bullets. Reloading isnt that diff. Do you have a current reloading manual? Flip it open find the bullet weight you want & a powder you can get then use the middle data. It wont matter much if the bullets are plated, coated lead or jacketed. That is the lazy way but its simple. For rokkies, I suggest medium burners like Unique, WSF, be86, universal, PowerPistol, aa#7, hs6.
 
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I don't think anything is simple any more although we may be near peak crazy. What's simple is that you can't get the bullet, powder or primers you want. So start with getting primers and then bullets and then come back and ask for a simple load and hopefully there is a powder that is available.
 

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loading 40 S&W isn't any more difficult than loading 357 Mag and just like the 357 Mag, there are a lot of powder and bullet combinations that will work.

you'll need the right dies and components to use with your Lyman SS, the problem is finding what you need.

start looking for the powders and bullets that have been suggested above, you'll need a supply of brass and small pistol primers, once you have everything together, you'll need data, a good reloading manel will not only have data but explain the reloading process, most powder manufacturers have data on line.

just have no expectation of walking into a big box sporting goods store and finding anything, gun shows may be your best bet but plan on paying a premium.

if you've not stocked up on components during times of plenty, you aren't reloading during times like this.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the tips.

My Lyman loading manual is from the ‘60s when I started reloading and .40 didn’t exist. So is my powder of which I have several types.

I had a 30-30 and started reloading as a young teen. I used a certain weight of powder for a certain brand. I guess I overloaded by using the wrong combo. I had 6 reloads and my girlfriend and I went shooting. I shot the first 5 and it was getting harder and harder to bolt out the casings. She wanted to shoot the last one and luckily she wore prescription glasses because the gun blew apart and shattered her glasses. I’m not sure how she explained that to Mom. I was standing beside her and watching her take aim and then then there was no more gun! She had the stance, arms out, and just air was in her arms. The gun was scattered on the ground.

So my powder is from the ‘60s and maybe some from the ‘70s and it’s dry but maybe I don’t want to chance it. I’ll take a drive to Cabelas and see what they have.

What’s the story with sintered bullets?
 

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Thanks for the tips.

My Lyman loading manual is from the ‘60s when I started reloading and .40 didn’t exist. So is my powder of which I have several types.

I had a 30-30 and started reloading as a young teen. I used a certain weight of powder for a certain brand. I guess I overloaded by using the wrong combo. I had 6 reloads and my girlfriend and I went shooting. I shot the first 5 and it was getting harder and harder to bolt out the casings. She wanted to shoot the last one and luckily she wore prescription glasses because the gun blew apart and shattered her glasses. I’m not sure how she explained that to Mom. I was standing beside her and watching her take aim and then then there was no more gun! She had the stance, arms out, and just air was in her arms. The gun was scattered on the ground.

So my powder is from the ‘60s and maybe some from the ‘70s and it’s dry but maybe I don’t want to chance it. I’ll take a drive to Cabelas and see what they have.

What’s the story with sintered bullets?
your above story goes to show how important it is to be sure of every aspect of the reloading process and testing what you reloaded, you lost a rifle and a pair of glasses, it could have been worse.

you don't just "load'em and go" but working up a load also includes firing a small amount of test rounds to verify proper function in your firearms, the sticky extraction you experienced would have caused me to stop and inspect my brass for signs of over pressure and I would have pulled the bullets to verify charge weight.

you didn't mention any reloading equipment other than your press, if you don't have them, look into a good scale and a set of check weights, this way you can verify powder charges before they get into the case, to me, the most important aspect of reloading.
 

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Tell us everything you have and use to measure powder charges. Their is a big difference to loading 40 s&w and 357, it is the crimp. So before you even load the powder make sure your crimp is straight and not putting any scrapes on the bullet especially for the Hi-Tech bullet noted earlier. We call it a crimp but it is really just straightening the wall of the cartridge. With 357 you used a roll crimp. If you do that with 40s&w you could also blow-up this gun. So if you do find bullets make sure you pull your 1st bullets to make sure your crimp is not deforming the bullet at all. Also get a case gauge to make sure your bullet fits the barrel. If it fits the case gauge and is flush with the top of the gauge, your crimp is good you still have to pull the bullet to make sure no deformation.
 

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Xtreme 180 grain plated bullet, 4.0 grains of Red Dot, any primer. 850 fps all day long.
 

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This will get u up to 1992.
40 load data 2.jpg 40 load data 1.jpg
Single stage these in blocks of 50. Powder visual is the most important for me. Not sure what state you are in, but components can be had in most. Hunt and Peck, visit some ranges ask around. PM me I will help you find what you need.
 

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Thanks for the tips.

My Lyman loading manual is from the ‘60s when I started reloading and .40 didn’t exist. So is my powder of which I have several types.

I had a 30-30 and started reloading as a young teen. I used a certain weight of powder for a certain brand. I guess I overloaded by using the wrong combo. I had 6 reloads and my girlfriend and I went shooting. I shot the first 5 and it was getting harder and harder to bolt out the casings. She wanted to shoot the last one and luckily she wore prescription glasses because the gun blew apart and shattered her glasses. I’m not sure how she explained that to Mom. I was standing beside her and watching her take aim and then then there was no more gun! She had the stance, arms out, and just air was in her arms. The gun was scattered on the ground.

So my powder is from the ‘60s and maybe some from the ‘70s and it’s dry but maybe I don’t want to chance it. I’ll take a drive to Cabelas and see what they have.

What’s the story with sintered bullets?
Cabelas likely won't have any powder right now. But while you're there, it would be a good idea to snag a newer loading manual. The Lyman 50th edition paperback is a good value. The powder manufacturers also all have reloading data online.

If your powder hasn't gone rancid, it is probably fine IF it is a suitable burn speed. I have used some very old powder these past couple of years. What type of powder do you have?
 

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180 sns cast bullet, coated. 3.8 grains of WST and the primer of your choice. Mild, accurate and fun
 

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almost impossible to blow up a rifle unless you use a completely wrong powder.
Way back when I believe it was more common to load rifle with reduced charges of shotshell powders. I used a couple of old tins of Unique that state, "Rifle, Pistol, Shotgun Powder". And of course cast bullet rifle shooters still use shotshell powders. So yeah, way easy to get oneself into big trouble in a hurry!

 

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Thanks for the tips.


What’s the story with sintered bullets?
The Sintered bullets are generally light for caliber, so you wont really find accurate data for them, plus they tend to be quite expensive compared to say coated lead.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
the sticky extraction you experienced would have caused me to stop and inspect my brass for signs of over pressure and I would have pulled the bullets to verify charge weight
Yeah, if I had wisdom, lol. The word "safety" didn't appear anywhere rural Pennsylvania German society. When I turned 12, my Dad bought my brothers and I rifled. The extent of the safety talk was maybe to not scratch the door going out. And boy did we have fun !

Its the truth about the 3030. The stock separated from the chamber area when that section blew into pieces and only the barrel survived.

I have to write down some of the powders and go to Cabela or call them and then we'll continue this quest.

I'm glad you all took the time to get me started.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
What's up with the shortages? Is it the virus or are people stocking up ? I know there is a line out the door at the gun store here
 
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