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6 out of 50 misfired

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by .45 guy, Feb 15, 2010.

  1. .45 guy

    .45 guy

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    Took some new loads to the range. I was shooting .223 Bushmaster, I had 6 loads not fire. Primers were dented,but no bang. I was using Wolf SRM primers, which I've shot thousands of w/o a problem. I tried to re-shoot them out of my Rock River AR, no bang there either. :dunno:
     
  2. Murphy's Law

    Murphy's Law

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    Check the "head space" . Hopefully you have a case gauge and ensure its not sticking up to high but rather flat/even with the gauge. Willing to bet that's the problem since you've used these type primers before. I prefer cci 41's out of my 223 colt A3 which are supposedly a little thicker/harder.
     

  3. Three-Five-Seven

    Three-Five-Seven Señor Mombo Millennium Member

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    A number of guys at the range tell me they no longer use Wolf primers.
     
  4. squirreld

    squirreld

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    this would be the first time I have heard someone say that wolf primers are problematic.
    I have read nothing bad about them yet.

    can anyone else chime in?
     
  5. D. Manley

    D. Manley

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    Well, yes...and no. I bought 5,000 of the new (nickle plated) Wolf SPP last fall and immediately had ignition problems in my tuned range guns. Along that time a lot of other people had similar problems. It appears to be a two-fold issue with the SPP. First, a lot of people reported they were very difficult to fully seat although, I had no such problem. The 2nd thing is, they simply require a little more of a "whack" to light than most other primers including, the Wolfs prior to the switch to nickle plating. On the "no" side, they are good primers and will run in guns with factory strength springing...the problems (on the pistol side, that is) are with tuned guns running lightened FP springs. In my case, I have never had issues with Winchester or Federals...never. With the Wolfs, I had a significant and unacceptable failure rate in my range guns yet, ran 100% with a stock setup. Bottom line, some people have problems, some don't...depends to a large extent (other than proper reloading technique) on the type of gun you're running them in. In my case, I just sold the remainder to a friend running stock springing and went back to my favorite...Federal. I've seen a few blurbs here and there about similar problems with some of their rifle primers but there, I have no first hand knowledge one way or the other.
     
  6. Zombie Steve

    Zombie Steve Decap Pin Killa

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    Primers seated properly? Did you put one back in and see if it fired the second time?
    What's the firing pin look like? Anything goofy going on there?
     
  7. Snapper2

    Snapper2

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    I had problems with wolf lp primers not igniting the first strike in the bottleneck 400corbon(G30). I adjusted my sizing die to reduce headspace and every one fired the first time. That said, I never had a misfire with cci or fed primers. But atleast it did fix my headspace issue. I had taken for granted my die/shell holder and chamber were in spec.
     
  8. 1006

    1006

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    I recently started useing Wolf Small Pistol Primers: My glocks (3 of them all factory stock) all have problems with the primers not igniting. The Wolfs work fine in my revolvers and Sigs, and 1911's, but not the Glocks -- all with factory trigger systems.
     
  9. .45 guy

    .45 guy

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    I dont have my camera right now. The primers were shot a second time. If I had to describe it (and keep in mind that the differences are minimal and difficult to see.) But if I had to compair it to a normal primer having been fired (well defined pin hole) these seemed more of a depressive "splat" wider and less defined though just as deep.
     
  10. .45 guy

    .45 guy

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    Ok, a little follow up. I took a few of the rounds apart. Each had a clump of powder at the bottom. Moisture? The powder was grey buy part of it was a brownish color. It was a drfinate clump. I had to break them up with my fingers. The primers were still copper colored and un fired. Only suspect I can come with is lube??
     
  11. .45 guy

    .45 guy

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  12. GioaJack

    GioaJack Conifer Jack

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    If you're using a neck brush with a grease type lube on it before running it over your expander button you may be leaving too much lube in the neck.

    Try switching to a dry mica lube, works just as well, if not better with no danger of powder contamination, even in very, very hot weather.

    Neck expanding does not require a lot of lube, a little goes a long way. It reduces the friction while running it over your expander button and helps limit stretching and trimming.

    Jack
     
  13. .45 guy

    .45 guy

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    I'm full length sizing with RCBS spray lube.
     
  14. GioaJack

    GioaJack Conifer Jack

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    FL or neck sizing makes no difference, you're still running an expander button through the neck.

    The amount of lube on the outside of the case makes no real difference, although if you get too much on the shoulder you'll end up with shoulder dents.

    I've never used the spray lube, I'm too old school but I would imagine it either dries to the point where it shouldn't pose a powder problem unless you're spraying it down the neck of the case.

    Has your measure been cleaned adequately, completely degreased and then rubbed down to remove any static electricity? Both of those condition will cause powder to clump but really shouldn't be the cause of misfires.

    Jack
     
  15. .45 guy

    .45 guy

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    Thanks for the help Jack. I will tear the measure down and clean it. I'm wondering if the lube got built up on the primer cup while resizing. Then got in when I loaded and primed cases? This is a first for me.
     
  16. GioaJack

    GioaJack Conifer Jack

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    Don't worry about it, it happens to all of us. I've found that the Hornady One Shot spray cleaner and lube, (not the case lube) really works pretty well. When it dries it just leaves a dry slick coating that won't contaminate your powder.

    You might also want to rub the inside of your measure with and anti-static dryer sheet... this will keep your powder from sticking to the side of the measure. After time if you notice powder starting to stick to the measure again just rub down the outside of the measure and you'll see the powder fall off the sides. Good luck.

    Jack
     
  17. El_Ron1

    El_Ron1 AAAAAAAAGHHH!!!

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    Somebody send Jack some OneShot before the Dillon Girls find out.

    The old guy with the pad? Ewwwwwwwww...
     
  18. MrVvrroomm

    MrVvrroomm

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    I've run 10K, yes 10,000 Wolf small pistol primers through various calibers. I've not had one failure to light with any of my Glocks, Steyrs, Tanfoglio, Kel-Tec, XD's, Coonan, Astras, Bersa, S&w's, or Rugers. All of these guns are basically stock.
     
  19. Glock2008

    Glock2008 Gun User

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    I've had this happen when using BLC(2) with wolf srm primers a couple times this winter. when I took them apart the powder looked exactly as yours does, but my primers did appear to be fired when I removed them from the casings. I figured I just got a few bad primers that didn't burn hot enough to set the charge off. A couple of the casings even seemed to have a bit of pressure in them when I removed the bullets. Only happened to me about 5-6 times out of the thousand I've used so far though.
     
  20. GioaJack

    GioaJack Conifer Jack

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    You young guys are just jealous 'cause you don't know the difference between an RCBS lube pad and a Stay-Free Maxi Pad.

    Hint: One you mess with when you want to load... the other you only mess with if you're already loaded.

    Us old guys know useful stuff.:supergrin:

    Jack