Hahahaha that was a perfect response.People will laugh at you on a forum.
Do you think before you type or just randomly spit out ridiculous lawyer speak designed to lift all responsibility of anything and everything that goes wrong from the manufacturer?CLICK, CLICK, BOOM, is always a possibility, when the inappropriate ammo is fired from any weapon. Not worth the risk! CLICK, CLICK, BOOMS, can be catastrophic! Just saying.:whistling:
Look, to all the " Richard Skulls " in the world, billy, that's you, shoot the appropriate caliber ammo, for the firearm that is intended! My advice, along with, S&W, Colt, Glock, Springfield, H&K, Ruger, HI Point, Bersa, Taurus, etc, etc!!! Assuming you can read! What does it say in the owners manual? Hu Huh! Thank you for choosing, (insert firearms name here) hope you enjoy the 10MM safely, and please by all means, feel free to shoot 40 S&W in your new "10MM" :upeyes: billy, eat poop!Do you think before you type or just randomly spit out ridiculous lawyer speak designed to lift all responsibility of anything and everything that goes wrong from the manufacturer?
10mm Auto and .40 S&W are IDENTICAL rounds in all things that are important during ignition. Same case diameter and same SAAMI pressure spec. In fact, since it has less case volume, an argument can be made that there's less of a chance of over-charging the round and having a ka-boom.
Extractor holds case in correct position, firing pin hits primer, round goes forward through barrel (although it has to travel a fraction of an inch to hit the lands unlike an actual 10mm would) and case pushes backwards against the correctly sized breech face. Correctly positioned ejector hits case in the correct spot and empty brass flies out of ejection port. Problem with this is where exactly?
"Catastrophic" .. I love the drama. Work for Homeland Security much?
" Richard Skulls "
I'm "Old School" but that works also!:supergrin:I think you meant "Richard Craniums".
you say in this post that the round doesn't sit all the way in the chamber when you shoot .40 cal from your 10mm so in a sense the .40 cal round is unsupported is it not? this could cause a kaboom! I have to agree with always shootin, only shoot the round the barrel was chambered for.I shoot .40 through my 10mm 1911 if I feel like it.
Nothing adverse happens. Breech face is the right size. Extractor is finding a correctly sized case. The round just doesn't sit all the way into the chamber but the extractor still holds it in place.
I was surprised to find that even with the 24lb recoil spring I'm running, bulk GA-Arms 180gr .40 is still able to cycle the slide properly. .40 runs just as well in my gun as 10mm. I love the flexibility.
he's not saying that the round doesn't chamber all the way...you say in this post that the round doesn't sit all the way in the chamber when you shoot .40 cal from your 10mm so in a sense the .40 cal round is unsupported is it not? this could cause a kaboom! I have to agree with always shootin, only shoot the round the barrel was chambered for.
Dude are you serious? You probably think it's dangerous to shoot .38 special in a .357 too. :upeyes:Look, to all the " Richard Skulls " in the world, billy, that's you, shoot the appropriate caliber ammo, for the firearm that is intended! My advice, along with, S&W, Colt, Glock, Springfield, H&K, Ruger, HI Point, Bersa, Taurus, etc, etc!!! Assuming you can read! What does it say in the owners manual? Hu Huh! Thank you for choosing, (insert firearms name here) hope you enjoy the 10MM safely, and please by all means, feel free to shoot 40 S&W in your new "10MM" :upeyes: billy, eat poop!
Do you think before you type or just randomly spit out ridiculous lawyer speak designed to lift all responsibility of anything and everything that goes wrong from the manufacturer?
10mm Auto and .40 S&W are IDENTICAL rounds in all things that are important during ignition. Same case diameter and same SAAMI pressure spec. In fact, since it has less case volume, an argument can be made that there's less of a chance of over-charging the round and having a ka-boom.
Extractor holds case in correct position, firing pin hits primer, round goes forward through barrel (although it has to travel a fraction of an inch to hit the lands unlike an actual 10mm would) and case pushes backwards against the correctly sized breech face. Correctly positioned ejector hits case in the correct spot and empty brass flies out of ejection port. Problem with this is where exactly?
"Catastrophic" .. I love the drama. Work for Homeland Security much?
The .357 was specifically designed from the ground up to be able to shoot .38 special rounds. This was the intention from it's very beginnings on the drawing board, and it's simply not the case with the .40 & the 10MM. Automatics do not have a forcing cone at the beginning of the bore like a revolver does, and are not meant to tolerate the potential misalignment from bullets that fly free & un-guided before hitting the rifling.Dude are you serious? You probably think it's dangerous to shoot .38 special in a .357 too. :upeyes:
Hey bushy, shoot up! Maybe you can be the next guy with the nickname lefty. You won't be the first. No seriously, go ahead, I read somewhere a dude with a Delta did it all the time, so it must be OK to do.:upeyes:Dude are you serious? You probably think it's dangerous to shoot .38 special in a .357 too. :upeyes:
OP. Go for it. It's perfectly safe to shoot .40 in a 10mm. I mostly shot .40 in my Delta Elite with zero issues. (Before a friend decided he needed it more than I did. :supergrinPeople like alwaysshootin have no clue what they're talking about but like flapping their jaw more than trying to learn and get all salty when someone calls them on it. :crying:
Bzzt. Wrong, but good try. Unsupported rounds are when there is a portion of the main area of a round that is not supported by chamber. This only happens with the back end of a round when the feed ramp leaves a small area of the bottom end of the case exposed.you say in this post that the round doesn't sit all the way in the chamber when you shoot .40 cal from your 10mm so in a sense the .40 cal round is unsupported is it not? this could cause a kaboom! I have to agree with always shootin, only shoot the round the barrel was chambered for.
Actually the difference between .40 & 10MM here is about 1/8" Inch. Just look at the difference in the two cartridge lengths. Lots more than high powered rifles use.he's not saying that the round doesn't chamber all the way...
due to the shorter case length of the .40, the bullet sits farther away from the rifling and just has to make a short "jump" before it starts spinning... that empty space is called "freebore." in this case, we're talking a few thousandths of an inch. if we're talking reloads you can play seating depth to take up some of the space.
factory made high power rifles have much more freebore than this, and operate at much higher pressures.
a handgun built for 10mm will digest even extremely hot .40s all day long.