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If .40 ammo is accidentally loaded and fired in a 10mm Glock what damage is likely to occur? These 2 calibers are so similar in appearance that extra precaution needs to be taken to avoid such a mishap.
 

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People will laugh at you on a forum.
 

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CLICK, CLICK, BOOM, is always a possibility, when the inappropriate ammo is fired from any weapon. Not worth the risk! CLICK, CLICK, BOOMS, can be catastrophic! Just saying.:whistling:
 

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I shoot .40 through my 10mm 1911 if I feel like it.

Nothing adverse happens. Breech face is the right size. Extractor is finding a correctly sized case. The round just doesn't sit all the way into the chamber but the extractor still holds it in place.

I was surprised to find that even with the 24lb recoil spring I'm running, bulk GA-Arms 180gr .40 is still able to cycle the slide properly. .40 runs just as well in my gun as 10mm. I love the flexibility.
 

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CLICK, CLICK, BOOM, is always a possibility, when the inappropriate ammo is fired from any weapon. Not worth the risk! CLICK, CLICK, BOOMS, can be catastrophic! Just saying.:whistling:
Do you think before you type or just randomly spit out ridiculous lawyer speak designed to lift all responsibility of anything and everything that goes wrong from the manufacturer?

10mm Auto and .40 S&W are IDENTICAL rounds in all things that are important during ignition. Same case diameter and same SAAMI pressure spec. In fact, since it has less case volume, an argument can be made that there's less of a chance of over-charging the round and having a ka-boom.

Extractor holds case in correct position, firing pin hits primer, round goes forward through barrel (although it has to travel a fraction of an inch to hit the lands unlike an actual 10mm would) and case pushes backwards against the correctly sized breech face. Correctly positioned ejector hits case in the correct spot and empty brass flies out of ejection port. Problem with this is where exactly?

"Catastrophic" .. I love the drama. Work for Homeland Security much?
 

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Yeah, 10mm and .40S&W is about the only compatible swap in Glock pistols. I've done it in a G-20 and a G-29, even mixing .40 and 10, in the same mag, no problems.
I bought a .40 conversion barrel for my 29 and only shoot .40 in that now, but in a pinch, I wouldn't hesitate to use .40 in my stock 10mm barrel.
 

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Do you think before you type or just randomly spit out ridiculous lawyer speak designed to lift all responsibility of anything and everything that goes wrong from the manufacturer?

10mm Auto and .40 S&W are IDENTICAL rounds in all things that are important during ignition. Same case diameter and same SAAMI pressure spec. In fact, since it has less case volume, an argument can be made that there's less of a chance of over-charging the round and having a ka-boom.

Extractor holds case in correct position, firing pin hits primer, round goes forward through barrel (although it has to travel a fraction of an inch to hit the lands unlike an actual 10mm would) and case pushes backwards against the correctly sized breech face. Correctly positioned ejector hits case in the correct spot and empty brass flies out of ejection port. Problem with this is where exactly?

"Catastrophic" .. I love the drama. Work for Homeland Security much?
Look, to all the " Richard Skulls " in the world, billy, that's you, shoot the appropriate caliber ammo, for the firearm that is intended! My advice, along with, S&W, Colt, Glock, Springfield, H&K, Ruger, HI Point, Bersa, Taurus, etc, etc!!! Assuming you can read! What does it say in the owners manual? Hu Huh! Thank you for choosing, (insert firearms name here) hope you enjoy the 10MM safely, and please by all means, feel free to shoot 40 S&W in your new "10MM" :upeyes: billy, eat poop!
 

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I shoot .40 through my 10mm 1911 if I feel like it.

Nothing adverse happens. Breech face is the right size. Extractor is finding a correctly sized case. The round just doesn't sit all the way into the chamber but the extractor still holds it in place.

I was surprised to find that even with the 24lb recoil spring I'm running, bulk GA-Arms 180gr .40 is still able to cycle the slide properly. .40 runs just as well in my gun as 10mm. I love the flexibility.
you say in this post that the round doesn't sit all the way in the chamber when you shoot .40 cal from your 10mm so in a sense the .40 cal round is unsupported is it not? this could cause a kaboom! I have to agree with always shootin, only shoot the round the barrel was chambered for.
 

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you say in this post that the round doesn't sit all the way in the chamber when you shoot .40 cal from your 10mm so in a sense the .40 cal round is unsupported is it not? this could cause a kaboom! I have to agree with always shootin, only shoot the round the barrel was chambered for.
he's not saying that the round doesn't chamber all the way...

due to the shorter case length of the .40, the bullet sits farther away from the rifling and just has to make a short "jump" before it starts spinning... that empty space is called "freebore." in this case, we're talking a few thousandths of an inch. if we're talking reloads you can play seating depth to take up some of the space.

factory made high power rifles have much more freebore than this, and operate at much higher pressures.

a handgun built for 10mm will digest even extremely hot .40s all day long.
 

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Look, to all the " Richard Skulls " in the world, billy, that's you, shoot the appropriate caliber ammo, for the firearm that is intended! My advice, along with, S&W, Colt, Glock, Springfield, H&K, Ruger, HI Point, Bersa, Taurus, etc, etc!!! Assuming you can read! What does it say in the owners manual? Hu Huh! Thank you for choosing, (insert firearms name here) hope you enjoy the 10MM safely, and please by all means, feel free to shoot 40 S&W in your new "10MM" :upeyes: billy, eat poop!
Dude are you serious? You probably think it's dangerous to shoot .38 special in a .357 too. :upeyes:

OP. Go for it. It's perfectly safe to shoot .40 in a 10mm. I mostly shot .40 in my Delta Elite with zero issues. (Before a friend decided he needed it more than I did. :supergrin:) People like alwaysshootin have no clue what they're talking about but like flapping their jaw more than trying to learn and get all salty when someone calls them on it. :crying:
 

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Do you think before you type or just randomly spit out ridiculous lawyer speak designed to lift all responsibility of anything and everything that goes wrong from the manufacturer?

10mm Auto and .40 S&W are IDENTICAL rounds in all things that are important during ignition. Same case diameter and same SAAMI pressure spec. In fact, since it has less case volume, an argument can be made that there's less of a chance of over-charging the round and having a ka-boom.

Extractor holds case in correct position, firing pin hits primer, round goes forward through barrel (although it has to travel a fraction of an inch to hit the lands unlike an actual 10mm would) and case pushes backwards against the correctly sized breech face. Correctly positioned ejector hits case in the correct spot and empty brass flies out of ejection port. Problem with this is where exactly?

"Catastrophic" .. I love the drama. Work for Homeland Security much?

NOBODY should listen to this guy on this issue. He's spewing crap that could get someone hurt. The problem is you're not supposed to have bullets leave their cases and fly totally un-guided through the wide open chamber space for 1/8" of an inch or more before encountering the beginning of the bore & rifling.

This reminds me of those idiots who think that 10 motorcycle rides with no wrecks proves that helmets are un-needed, so they go without and then die of skull fracture on their 11th ride. NO ONE should ever emulate the guys who push their luck and then try to claim they've proven something stupid is actually safe. It's NOT.

And the word "catastrophic" IS a perfect description of what could happen.
 

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Ok, make that my advice, along with, S&W, Colt, Glock, Springfield, H&K, Ruger, HI Point, Bersa, Taurus, and NightTrain, etc, etc!!!

I'm not saying it can't be done, but what if, what if? Would you love to go back in time? I'm sure anyone who has had something bad happen, that was avoidable, would give their right hand to go back in time. Think about it!
 

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Dude are you serious? You probably think it's dangerous to shoot .38 special in a .357 too. :upeyes:
The .357 was specifically designed from the ground up to be able to shoot .38 special rounds. This was the intention from it's very beginnings on the drawing board, and it's simply not the case with the .40 & the 10MM. Automatics do not have a forcing cone at the beginning of the bore like a revolver does, and are not meant to tolerate the potential misalignment from bullets that fly free & un-guided before hitting the rifling.
 

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Dude are you serious? You probably think it's dangerous to shoot .38 special in a .357 too. :upeyes:

OP. Go for it. It's perfectly safe to shoot .40 in a 10mm. I mostly shot .40 in my Delta Elite with zero issues. (Before a friend decided he needed it more than I did. :supergrin:) People like alwaysshootin have no clue what they're talking about but like flapping their jaw more than trying to learn and get all salty when someone calls them on it. :crying:
Hey bushy, shoot up! Maybe you can be the next guy with the nickname lefty. You won't be the first. No seriously, go ahead, I read somewhere a dude with a Delta did it all the time, so it must be OK to do.:upeyes:
 

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you say in this post that the round doesn't sit all the way in the chamber when you shoot .40 cal from your 10mm so in a sense the .40 cal round is unsupported is it not? this could cause a kaboom! I have to agree with always shootin, only shoot the round the barrel was chambered for.
Bzzt. Wrong, but good try. Unsupported rounds are when there is a portion of the main area of a round that is not supported by chamber. This only happens with the back end of a round when the feed ramp leaves a small area of the bottom end of the case exposed.

In my .40 out of a 10mm example, the case is supported exactly the same way a 10mm case would be, it just doesn't extend all the way to the front of the the chamber as a 10mm would. Think about it for a second and you'll understand.
 

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he's not saying that the round doesn't chamber all the way...

due to the shorter case length of the .40, the bullet sits farther away from the rifling and just has to make a short "jump" before it starts spinning... that empty space is called "freebore." in this case, we're talking a few thousandths of an inch. if we're talking reloads you can play seating depth to take up some of the space.

factory made high power rifles have much more freebore than this, and operate at much higher pressures.

a handgun built for 10mm will digest even extremely hot .40s all day long.
Actually the difference between .40 & 10MM here is about 1/8" Inch. Just look at the difference in the two cartridge lengths. Lots more than high powered rifles use.
 
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