They should have all been the same but 2 rounds had there nose pointed up (which was the strangest thing I'd ever seen) and another didn't kick out fast enough and got caught by the slide.
Setting the cartridge overall length for most pistol cartridges is simple. Just use measurement supplied by the bullet manufacturer. It will be within SAAMI specifications.
As far as the bell remaining from the belling step. It needs to be removed to make the case wall straight. Otherwise, it can grab things as it is feeding over the end of the magazine, up the feed ramp, and in to the chamber. I personally use Hornady taper crimp dies and they work like a champ. Ones from other manufacturers will likely work fine too.
Adding to some every helpfull info. Please spend the next hour or so at WWW.realguns.com/loads/357sig.htm Once there in the search archives block put "357 sig" Most outstanding site reguarding the 357 sig and how to build reloads in that caliber. Enjoy.
Not to throw a grenade in to the whole where does 357Sig headspace discussion, but in reality it likely doesn't headspace on the shoulder or the case mouth. Like the vast majority of auto pistol cartridges, it will most likely headspace on the extractor. The extractor is what controlls the fore and aft movement of the cartridge. You can measure the headspace from the mid point on the shoulder or the case mouth to the bottom of the case.
By the definition of headspace, it can not headspace on the extractor. It may be held in place w/ a well fitting extractor, but that is not truely headspacing.
By the definition of headspace, it can not headspace on the extractor. It may be held in place w/ a well fitting extractor, but that is not truely headspacing.
I'm just trying to illustrate what's really happening. If someone thinks that the shoulder is what is determining how far the cartridge goes in to the chamber, that would not be correct. But yes, you don't measure headspace from the extractor groove.
I've been learning to load the bottleneck 400 cor bon and if the 357 sig is anything like it,it will take alot of practice. Not enough flare and you collapse the neck during seating . Too much flare and you can buckle the case mouth during crimping or lose bullet/case mouth tension.When using a taper crimp die I found out its real easy to buckle the case shoulders(even a little bit and the round wont chamber). While I can use the(lee)seat /taper crimp die, I dont feel like it gives the short neck enough tension. So far I'm having better luck with lee's bottleneck factory crimp die, it roll crimps only the case mouth without putting any stress on the neck or shoulders. And unlike the straight wall LFCDs, it doesnt size also. But it wont fix the problem if a bullet has been seated improperly.
I've been learning to load the bottleneck 400 cor bon and if the 357 sig is anything like it,it will take alot of practice. Not enough flare and you collapse the neck during seating . Too much flare and you can buckle the case mouth during crimping or lose bullet/case mouth tension.When using a taper crimp die I found out its real easy to buckle the case shoulders(even a little bit and the round wont chamber). While I can use the(lee)seat /taper crimp die, I dont feel like it gives the short neck enough tension. So far I'm having better luck with lee's bottleneck factory crimp die, it roll crimps only the case mouth without putting any stress on the neck or shoulders. And unlike the straight wall LFCDs, it doesnt size also. But it wont fix the problem if a bullet has been seated improperly.
SOunds like you've got a handle on it. Getting proper neck tension is the key. Make sure your expander die only flares & notexpands the ID too much. Chuck it in the drill press or find a machinist to chuck it in a lathe & polish it down.
SOunds like you've got a handle on it. Getting proper neck tension is the key. Make sure your expander die only flares & notexpands the ID too much. Chuck it in the drill press or find a machinist to chuck it in a lathe & polish it down.
Good idea Fred. I'll give it a try. I work out of a machine shop though my work is outside.:crying: After reading that realgun.com article I checked my headspace and found with the slack taken out of press and sizer touching holder, the formed brass is around .025 below barrel hood. So I took some fire formed brass and adjusted sizer up a few thousands(actually played with it till I got right):whistling: And the resized brass is at or just below hood after being maybe .010 above it after shot. I made a few dummy rounds they hand cycled through allright. I will load some target rounds and see how it works.
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