Since purchasing a Glock 19 Gen 3 back in 2008, I've read articles and watched videos on modifications and accessories but none intrigued me more than the 25 Cent Trigger Job. It was only last year that I finally did it because I had almost everything needed to perform it and because it doesn't require any special skills beyond patience and desire.

I'm not a gunsmith, only a Glock enthusiast so what follows is what was common among all the resources I found on the procedure. Special thanks to Humans4Targets' YouTube video. He made it look easy.

Preparation

There are four parts to be polished in specific spots but in no particular order: safety plunger, connector, trigger bar, and the striker tail. Some also recommend polishing the slide rails so I did those too. I hand-polished the parts instead of using a Dremel tool because you don't want to cut or wear away any metal. That's especially important regarding polishing the inside ledge of the striker tail. Avoid bending or reshaping any factory parts.
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Supplies needed are:

metal polish

cotton swabs

a 3/32" pin punch

clean rag

I used Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish, Q-tips, and a Sears Craftsman 4" punch.

Procedure


Detail strip


The parts to be polished are accessed through detail stripping which is a complete disassembly of both the upper (slide) and the lower (receiver). The only tool needed besides possibly a 3/32" flathead (slotted) screwdriver to remove the connector from the trigger group, is the pin punch. Detail stripping has been addressed often in the GlockTalk Forum. In addition, a step-by-step guide can be found on GlockParts.com.

Polish parts

Start with the safety plunger. Dip the tip of the cotton swab into the polishing compound and rub the flat bottom of the plunger to remove deposits. Buff to a sheen with the rag.

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Next do the connector. After applying compound to the swab's tip, rub from the inside of the lip to about half-way down the bar. Doing the whole bar to the curved end is apparently okay also but unnecessary. Buff to a sheen with the rag.

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Now do the trigger bar at specific points.

1) Inside the trigger bar to the edge
2) The outside of the upward-curving top wing on the cruciform sear plate that the striker moves on. Doing the whole cross is apparently okay but is also unnecessary, and finally
3) The top edge of the safety plunger pusher.

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Next, polish the inside ledge (face) of the striker tail only up to the top corner. Rolling the corner has consequences best explained elsewhere.

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Finally, polish the slide rails (optional).

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That’s it!

Conclusion


After reassembly and factory recommended lubrication, the trigger action felt smoother and lighter and I felt a sense of accomplishment.


Some claim the trigger job reduces pull weight but because I don’t have a gauge, I can’t verify that. A surer way to reduce trigger pull is to replace the stock connector with a 3.5 lb. aftermarket connector like the Ghost Ultimate connector pictured above, and a stronger trigger spring.


Expect to spend 1-2 hours on the project, depending on your knowledge and experience.