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.22LR MG34

2210 16
Just picked this up for $500

Going to mill out the receiver and inlet a Marlin 795



milled out

testing fitting





im 85% done with this

man this was a pain to get the rifle inside. i had to do some tight twisting and use a rubber mallet to hammer it through

also did some severe modification by removing a lot of the Marlin 795 trigger guard

i have it bolted on through the buffer tube in the action and the barrel is pointed a bit downward.

i have to do some more filing to point it straight.

also need to buy an aluminum tube and connect it to the Marlin 795 as a barrel shroud because its about 12 inches short

the 795 trigger is also short and will need to create a trigger horse shoe adapter to bring it down. any suggestions on how to do this?

ive used kydex before and heated it up to form it around the original 795 trigger

i also want to create a longer charging handle

then paint the receiver and test fire


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Cool project!

On the trigger, have you considered just using something very similar to the original trigger, but use a lever or attached extension to activate the Marlin trigger? This would preserve the looks of the original dual-finger-grooved MG trigger, and a heavier return spring could be used for it while not messing with the basic function of the reliable original Marlin trigger mechanism.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cool project!

On the trigger, have you considered just using something very similar to the original trigger, but use a lever or attached extension to activate the Marlin trigger? This would preserve the looks of the original dual-finger-grooved MG trigger, and a heavier return spring could be used for it while not messing with the basic function of the reliable original Marlin trigger mechanism.
never thought of it. i was thinking of selling the guts of the trigger on gunbroker and mill one out but im having trouble visualizing of trying to install an extended trigger to such a small/thin Marlin trigger

ive see an M1A trigger shoe where it was drilled, tapped and has a small notch where a set screw keeps the trigger shoe in place. i was thinking of going this route. i can shape the kydex trigger like the MG34 trigger
 

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I would think if the MG trigger pivoted on a pin in the hole at the top-right of the trigger guard, as shown in your last photo, then installing a kydex version of the MG trigger, shaped externally like the original, but with a smooth vertical rear-face surface that would engage the tip of the Marlin trigger, would allow the Marlin trigger to slide down the vertical face as it received the needed small amount of rearward travel. Add a stop to prevent the larger trigger from stressing the Marlin trigger at the end of travel (also a potential problem with attached/extended trigger shoes), and you'd be good to go.

I wouldn't really consider adding an extension directly to the Marlin trigger; I think the additional leverage would make it far too easy to stress/break the thin Marlin trigger.
 

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In this image, the Marlin trigger is red, the milled surface on the interior of the MG34 trigger is green, and the (approximate) arc of the MG-34's trigger travel is indicated in blue. Make a kydex trigger for the MG34, mill a slot in the rear that allows no-binding movement of the Marlin trigger inside the slot, with the flat front of the slot in the approximate location of the green line in the illustration.

The tip of the Marlin's trigger is almost perfectly placed for a flat surface on the rear of the MG34 trigger to activate it during normal travel. The MG34 trigger probably moves through a half-inch of travel or more (measured at the bottom); the movement would be half that (or less) at the point where the Marlin trigger is located. Abrasion of the tip of the Marlin's trigger might be a problem; that could be solved with a smooth/polished metal insert at the green line location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
In this image, the Marlin trigger is red, the milled surface on the interior of the MG34 trigger is green, and the (approximate) arc of the MG-34's trigger travel is indicated in blue. Make a kydex trigger for the MG34, mill a slot in the rear that allows no-binding movement of the Marlin trigger inside the slot, with the flat front of the slot in the approximate location of the green line in the illustration.

The tip of the Marlin's trigger is almost perfectly placed for a flat surface on the rear of the MG34 trigger to activate it during normal travel. The MG34 trigger probably moves through a half-inch of travel or more (measured at the bottom); the movement would be half that (or less) at the point where the Marlin trigger is located. Abrasion of the tip of the Marlin's trigger might be a problem; that could be solved with a smooth/polished metal insert at the green line location.
ive never done that before. it seems intimidating because it sounds complicated but im willing to try

where would i drill the hole for the pin on the MG34 trigger guard?
hole for the kydex trigger?
and do i need to buy springs? how would i construct the trigger for that?
 

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Okay, I took a few minutes to watch this video:


to better familiarize myself with the MG34 trigger mechanism. And in doing so, I found that the original trigger doesn't pivot (as I had assumed), it looks like it slides within the housing. If you want to use a pivoting trigger, this complicates matters a bit.

For a pivoting trigger, if it were me, I'd probably just saw off the entire rear of the trigger extension (along the yellow line on the image below), drill a hole through the trigger and trigger guard assembly at about the spot of the green dot, slightly enlarge the hole where it passes through the trigger itself (so it will swing freely on the pin), and secure the whole thing with a solid fitted pin or a roll pin. As the trigger looks a little thinner than I originally thought, I'd probably give up on slotting it, and just use the vertical rear face of the cut as the spot for the Marlin trigger to slide against (may have to fill any existing slot/gaps in the trigger with metal or high-abrasion-resistance polymer, so the tip of the Marlin trigger will slide smoothly along the face of the cut). Due to the location of the MG34 trigger and the tip of the marlin trigger, the MG34 vertical trigger cut may actually intrude into the trigger guard area, which means it may be visible in the final product. Finally, I'd add a trigger return spring near the bottom of the MG34 trigger (either a torsional spring with one leg bearing on the trigger and the other leg bearing on a pin of the trigger guard, OR, a spring and plunger contained in a small tube set back into the grip frame area, under the grips (whichever you think might be easier to fabricate/install).

For a sliding trigger, I would NOT cut the original trigger, I'd just remove the upward projection near the front. I'd probably shorten the Marlin's trigger so it stopped just above the MG34 trigger bar, then I'd fashion an upward extension on the MG trigger to "trip" the Marlin trigger when the MG trigger slid to the rear. You'd have to figure a way to contain the trigger so it only slid front-to-back a certain distance and then stopped (or build that distance into the extended "trip" lever), to prevent stressing the Marlin trigger, but you might be able to use the existing trigger return spring and with this type of modification, everything externally visible would probably look and move in a more authentic manner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Okay, I took a few minutes to watch this video:


to better familiarize myself with the MG34 trigger mechanism. And in doing so, I found that the original trigger doesn't pivot (as I had assumed), it looks like it slides within the housing. If you want to use a pivoting trigger, this complicates matters a bit.

For a pivoting trigger, if it were me, I'd probably just saw off the entire rear of the trigger extension (along the yellow line on the image below), drill a hole through the trigger and trigger guard assembly at about the spot of the green dot, slightly enlarge the hole where it passes through the trigger itself (so it will swing freely on the pin), and secure the whole thing with a solid fitted pin or a roll pin. As the trigger looks a little thinner than I originally thought, I'd probably give up on slotting it, and just use the vertical rear face of the cut as the spot for the Marlin trigger to slide against (may have to fill any existing slot/gaps in the trigger with metal or high-abrasion-resistance polymer, so the tip of the Marlin trigger will slide smoothly along the face of the cut). Due to the location of the MG34 trigger and the tip of the marlin trigger, the MG34 vertical trigger cut may actually intrude into the trigger guard area, which means it may be visible in the final product. Finally, I'd add a trigger return spring near the bottom of the MG34 trigger (either a torsional spring with one leg bearing on the trigger and the other leg bearing on a pin of the trigger guard, OR, a spring and plunger contained in a small tube set back into the grip frame area, under the grips (whichever you think might be easier to fabricate/install).

For a sliding trigger, I would NOT cut the original trigger, I'd just remove the upward projection near the front. I'd probably shorten the Marlin's trigger so it stopped just above the MG34 trigger bar, then I'd fashion an upward extension on the MG trigger to "trip" the Marlin trigger when the MG trigger slid to the rear. You'd have to figure a way to contain the trigger so it only slid front-to-back a certain distance and then stopped (or build that distance into the extended "trip" lever), to prevent stressing the Marlin trigger, but you might be able to use the existing trigger return spring and with this type of modification, everything externally visible would probably look and move in a more authentic manner.
thanks i need to digest and re-read this.

i have no intentions of cutting up the original trigger.
i did have to mill out some of the MG34 trigger frame to let the Marlin action sit properly.

i do have an idea of just using epoxy putty inside the MG34 frame and put a return spring. ill take pics of how ill do this

i might drill and tap a hole into the Marlin trigger and put a vertical screw and wrap an epoxy putty shaped like a cube.

so the Kydex trigger will make contact with this putty cube
 

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So, "extended stock trigger" for the win? Great (and fast!) work!

Now, I am forced (by old habits as a belt-fed machinegun instructor) to say that machinegun bursts should be 7 to 9 rounds in length for best effect on target. I know, that's about a full mag for the Marlin action. :supergrin:

Time to work-up a good hi-cap box mag for that nice weapon; or perhaps a belt-feed system!
 
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