[Tbags]

I don't use a bore sighter on an AR, just take the upper off and remove the bcg. Place it on something really stable, I use a padded rifle vise and just look though the bore at something about 50 yards away and dial my cross hairs or dot to the center of the bore.

As for your castle nut just leave it be as it will be fine.

 

[Brass3]

I signed up for PA's emails, and started getting emails this morning

I personally don't go there much anymore. They're out of stock more than instock. Especially on what's hot.

 

[Brass3]

Do you think I should remove the castle nut and buffer tube to put some anti-seize now, or wait to see if it starts to loosen up after taking it to the range? If I do, I will probable pick up a 1/2" torque wrench and try torquing the castle nut again. I only had a 1/4" torque wrench, and used a 1/4" to 3/8" to 1/2" adapters to get to 1/2". The red Loc-tite was recommended by the FFL that I purchased the stripped lower from. He said the blue does not hold up well under heat.

Myself as well as others have had no problems as long as it's torqued. Heck, a few times I got lazy didn't feel like going to garage and just used a punch and wacked it a couple of times. No problems coming loose. I have a ratcheting castle nut on one of my plstols. Just wanted to tryout, works pretty good .

 

[AndyK]

I personally don't go there much anymore. They're out of stock more than instock. Especially on what's hot.

I find that to more true of palmetto state

 

[Brass3]

First off the FFL gave you incorrect info regarding the castle nut/recieve extension as there is essentially no heat in that area of an AR. Blue would have been fine, but since you already used red leave it be. If the time comes that you do need to remove the castle nut, I'll let you borrow my heat gun, heat it up and it should come off with the wrench you bought. Hopefully you used the red very sparingly as well as all that is really needed is a small droplet. I personally prefer to stake my castle nuts once I know it's running well and the reciever extension needs no adjustment. Yes a reciever extension may need adjustment if the face of the bolt ends even or past the back edge of the ejection port. Manually pull the charging handle all the back and see where the face of the stops, it should stop about 1/8" to 1/4" in front of the back edge of the port.

Brass3 thought you were dealing with the barrel nut and suggested the anti seize which could also be a little problematic if the wrong type is used, me I usually just use some good grease on the barrel nut and call it a day. Some chemicals in some anti seize can cause galvanic corrosion with aluminum and the steel of the nut.

You're absolutely correct T. I use pig grease, that's what was suggested by one of my mentors when I started building.

 

[Brass3]

Brass3, The link to the reflex sight on Amazon?

What about it. I don't understand

 

[VCoupe376ci]

Anyplace you work withe those darn springs use a Gallon zip-lock bag over the area and work inside the bag. Anything that goes boing will stay in the bag. I once had a buffer hold back go boing and the wife found it in a chandaleer light a few months later.

This is phenomenal advice! You should also wear eye protection when messing with parts under spring tension. I've had a couple parts nearly hit me in the eye over the years. Also, there is no need to stake the castle nut or use loctite. It just makes it painful to remove if you ever need to although that is one of the parts you shouldn't ever need to remove once installed.

 

[VCoupe376ci]

My advice on optics is buy once cry once. Optics are one of the places you absolutely get what you pay for and I have seen many inexpensive optics lose zero or fail completely. If this is going to be a range rifle, no harm in a failure, but if the rifle could serve any defensive purpose I would spend a bit more and get a quality optic. For a non magnified red dot you cannot beat the Aimpoint PRO. I have had one going on 6 years now that is never turned off. The battery lasts me a bit over a year. Hope this helps!

 

[Brass3]

This is phenomenal advice! You should also wear eye protection when messing with parts under spring tension. I've had a couple parts nearly hit me in the eye over the years. Also, there is no need to stake the castle nut or use loctite. It just makes it painful to remove if you ever need to although that is one of the parts you shouldn't ever need to remove once installed.

Eye protection never hurts. I wear my glasses when building, had a couple of boings hit them, not very often though. You're correct on the castle nut.

 

[Slantnose]

What about it. I don't understand

Seems very inexpensive. Is it durable? Did you buy one yourself?

 

[Slantnose]

My advice on optics is buy once cry once. Optics are one of the places you absolutely get what you pay for and I have seen many inexpensive optics lose zero or fail completely. If this is going to be a range rifle, no harm in a failure, but if the rifle could serve any defensive purpose I would spend a bit more and get a quality optic. For a non magnified red dot you cannot beat the Aimpoint PRO. I have had one going on 6 years now that is never turned off. The battery lasts me a bit over a year. Hope this helps!

It would just be a range rifle. Surprisingly, I have a Bushnell red dot "AK Optic" on my AK, and it has held up much better than I ever expected(similar to the TRS) I didn't really enjoy shooting it with the iron sights, as my vision is not as good as it once was, but the red dot made it fun. For now I only have access to a 25 yard indoor range, but will be able to go out to 400 yards when the new outdoor shooting park opens. I really like what I have read about the Primary Arms 1x6x24. The price seems to be $289.99 everywhere, plus mount. I also saw they have a more compact prism scope, that runs about $200 with a built in mount. I haven't found many reviews on it?

 

[Slantnose]

I don't use a bore sighter on an AR, just take the upper off and remove the bcg. Place it on something really stable, I use a padded rifle vise and just look though the bore at something about 50 yards away and dial my cross hairs or dot to the center of the bore.

As for your castle nut just leave it be as it will be fine.

I may give that a try. MY bore sight that was supposed to have been delivered today, is MIA. The tracking said it was out for delivery, but it wasn't in my locking mailbox, so I chased the mailman down, but he said he didn't delivery it, and now the tracking says it's available for pick up at the main post office. That's a first? I am off the next two days, so this was a bit of a disappointment.

 

[Slantnose]

The bore sight arrived today, but no time to try to zero my new rifle this week. Kind of disappointed I will be limited to a 25 yard indoor range to try to zero my rifle.

 

[norb5150]

So I could use the lower I just built with 6.8 mags. I think that PSA lists a stripped lower for the .224 for $79.00? What would be the difference between that and a PA15 multi- caliber? Different weight for the buffer? My Walmart does not carry .224. I read where they think the 6.5 rifling may increase stability for longer ranges.
Definitely interested in .224. I have not seen anything offered in 17HMR? I would also be interested in that round, but have only seen have only seen in in more traditional bolt style rifles.

The difference between the .224 marked lower and the .223 (5.56) and multi cal lowers is simply the engraving. They are all of the .224 caliber bullet family.

 

[Slantnose]

The difference between the .224 marked lower and the .223 (5.56) and multi cal lowers is simply the engraving. They are all of the .224 caliber bullet family.

With that info can I assume that a 22LR upper will use the same regular lower, with just a mag made for the 22 LR? Since 22 LR ammo is so cheap, it might be another fun affordable project

 

[AndyK]

You can buy conversion kits and use the same upper. Kit replaces the bolt and mags. Not an ideal twist rate for .22lr but it works.

 

[Slantnose]

You can buy conversion kits and use the same upper. Kit replaces the bolt and mags. Not an ideal twist rate for .22lr but it works.

I saw one of the conversion kits today with three mags for $159.99 shipped. It was surprising that the same barrel could be used. It is definitely something I am interested in doing, since 22 LR ammo is so cheap to shoot.
I have a Burris RT-6, 1-6x24mm scope ordered and an extended Aero Precision Ultralight scope mount also coming next week. I got a lot of help from some of the members here, and spent a lot of hours doing researching some of the scopes that were suggested before deciding on the Burris scope. I got a great deal on the scope and the mount. Hopefully, I will get it mounted soon, and finally be able to try my new rifle out at the range in the near future.
I had been procrastinating getting a brake job on my SUV, and finally got around to getting it done last week. Unfortunately, I found out that it is going to need some additional costly repairs ASAP, so I am going to have to tighten the belt for a few weeks.

 

[Slantnose]

My new Burris RT-6 1-6x24mm scope arrived today. I am still waiting on delivery of the extended Aero Precision scope mount I have on order. I ordered the scope from Patriot Firearms USA in Rio Rancho, NM. I really like the smart packaging they shipped it in. (Doctor Foster & Smith affordable quality pet care box). Very discrete, and smart thinking on their part.

 

[Slantnose]

Made it to the range today
Well, I made it to the range today to try out my new AR build, and my new Burris RT-6 scope.
This week I checked to make sure I had the correct length of pull, and also moved the scope another 1/2" forward on the mount to get better access to the charging handle. Also I used a laser sight to try to get the zero close on the scope. Apparently I did something wrong as I ended up off paper and way below the target today at the range. I didn't have a bench rest, so I steadied the rifle the best I could. I used up a 30 round mag getting it zeroed. After that, I shot at the four fresh smaller corner targets to see how close my groups were. I was shooting at the 25 yard indoor range without a bench rest standing. I initially shot three round groups at each of the four targets, and then came back a placed two more rounds on each. When I checked my groups they fell between 1 1/4" to 2". I wore my prescription glasses which did not work so well. Next time I will just bring my shooting glasses. I don't need glasses to see distance. I shot 100 rounds total today, and my rifle functioned perfectly. I was using some Federal 223 REM 55 grain ammo. I probably could have done slightly better with some 556 62 grain. I had let one of the employees at the range check out the scope for level, and he thought it was canted, and took it back to adjust it. I think it came back canted to the right, and told him I thought I had it closer. I have adjusted it again, and it looks closer to me than it was today at the range. Also he smudged up the eye piece lens, which I thought was just my vision caused by my glasses. I was told to adjust my zero so my groups were 1" below the bulls eye, which I did? Since this was my first trip to the range with my AR and new scope, I don't have anything that I can compare my groups with.

 

[fnfalman]

Made it to the range today
Well, I made it to the range today to try out my new AR build, and my new Burris RT-6 scope.
This week I checked to make sure I had the correct length of pull, and also moved the scope another 1/2" forward on the mount to get better access to the charging handle. Also I used a laser sight to try to get the zero close on the scope. Apparently I did something wrong as I ended up off paper and way below the target today at the range. I didn't have a bench rest, so I steadied the rifle the best I could. I used up a 30 round mag getting it zeroed. After that, I shot at the four fresh smaller corner targets to see how close my groups were. I was shooting at the 25 yard indoor range without a bench rest standing. I initially shot three round groups at each of the four targets, and then came back a placed two more rounds on each. When I checked my groups they fell between 1 1/4" to 2". I wore my prescription glasses which did not work so well. Next time I will just bring my shooting glasses. I don't need glasses to see distance. I shot 100 rounds total today, and my rifle functioned perfectly. I was using some Federal 223 REM 55 grain ammo. I probably could have done slightly better with some 556 62 grain. I had let one of the employees at the range check out the scope for level, and he thought it was canted, and took it back to adjust it. I think it came back canted to the right, and told him I thought I had it closer. I have adjusted it again, and it looks closer to me than it was today at the range. Also he smudged up the eye piece lens, which I thought was just my vision caused by my glasses. I was told to adjust my zero so my groups were 1" below the bulls eye, which I did? Since this was my first trip to the range with my AR and new scope, I don't have anything that I can compare my groups with.

Take it out to the Double Eagles shooting range and try it out there at longer distances.