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Why I buy extra computer parts

1K views 19 replies 6 participants last post by  LinuxLover 
#1 · (Edited)
As I have passed the 40 year mark in owning personal computers, I explain why I buy extra computer parts.

Recently, I had two hubs, one a 7 outlet model, and the second is a 4 outlet model. I wanted to get them either moved on the desk or off the desk. So, I bought 2 6 or 8 foot extension cables. They both work. I decided that I still wanted the smaller hub on the desk. So, because the cable to the hub is about 6 inches only!, I bought a three foot extension.

The extension plus the hub plus one usb key does not work!
The extension plus the usb key does work!
The hub plus the usb key and an external dvd unit work!

Now, knowing that I always need two hubs, I just ordered another "top-of-the-line, you will not need another in your lifetime" hub.
 
#2 ·
And, here is the update . . . I received in a Sabrent 4 port usb 3.0 hub with power switches for each port. Inexpensive. It worked with the new 3 foot usb extension. So, that means I have an older hub that goes into the box of parts. The old hub will work with a 6 foot extension, but not with the 3 foot extension.
 
#3 ·
Update to the update: (whew). the original vendor sent me another 3 foot usb extension without my requesting the same. Of course, I was curious. So, I took the old hub which I had replaced yesterday, hooked it up to the second 3 foot usb extension and then put in a usb key. It worked. This means that the original 3 footer was defective in that it could not support the old hub and the usb key.

So now, I have put into the storage box:
1 6 foot usb extension;
1 3 foot extension attached to the old hub which both work.

If I ever think that this is bad, I recall my friend who runs a computer repair shop in Culver City, CA across the street from the movie studios. One day I offered all my salvaged cables/power supplies - the left overs. He declined as he had boxes of parts, upstairs and downstairs at the business.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Looking with my pants ON.....

Power Supply Voltage (ATX v2.2)

PSU Tolerance Table
Voltage ------- Rail
+3.3VDC ... ± 5% ..
+5VDC .......± 5%...
+5VSB .......± 5% ..
-5VDC .......± 10%
+12VDC .....± 5% .
-12VDC ......± 10%​

I just solder all the like-colored wires together to make them all work together.



View: https://youtu.be/5TJaREOi1SY


Step #1: Identify the Wires on the 20 Pin (or 24 Pin) Connector

  • The wires on the main 20 pin (or 24 pin) connectors are color coded. These are the same for all ATX power supplies: 3.3V wires are orange; +5V wires are red; -5V wires (if they are present) are white; +12V wires are yellow; -12V wires are blue; ground wires are black.
  • The green wire is the "power on" sensor. This wire is internally connected to 5V with a pull-up resistor. If you connect this wire to ground (any black wire) the power supply will turn on.
  • The purple wire is the +5 "stand by" power. This outputs a 5V signal even if the rest of the power supply has not yet turned on, allowing you to power any circuit that might control the ON/OFF signal.
  • The gray "power good" indicator is at 5V if each of the output wires is operating at the correct voltages.
  • To make the connections easier to identify, I used colored markers to color code each slot on the 20 pin connector


.
 
#20 ·
Of course the computer power supply has to be very pure and voltage-accurate.

I use a couple of these on my work bench as battery chargers, USB chargers, amplifier drivers, etc. That it can sit in STANDBY for years until I pull power from it, means there is a very minimal power draw on the electricity in the house.

I never turn the one in my shop OFF at all; it's always ready.
 
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