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Reloading Noob: .357 Sig, which one for me?

5K views 113 replies 21 participants last post by  roundball 
#1 ·
I just picked up my very first personal pistol after some research and talks on here. I was talked into picking up a Glock 33, because i was wanting to stay in the subcompacts and after lots of research i felt like i liked the pros of the .357 sig round for personal defense, but the cost is a huge upset, so many recommended i go the G33 and buy a 9mm conversion barrel since the recoil between the .357 sig and 9mm are roughly the same multiple people stated.

Then i got to thinking, maybe instead of buying into another barrel and mag to shoot 9mm, maybe i can just invest that $200 into a reloader and just reload .357 sig shells that i shoot....

I did some quick searching and it seems there is not a lot of kits or loaders that i can easily find tailored for the .357 sig, most of my results are bombarded by the .357 mag reloader kits...

I am looking for advice on a decent not overly overpriced setup that would make reloading worth it for me on .357 sig ammo. I am not looking to start a gun ammo production line to shoot hundreds of rounds a month, im more of an occasional shooter. I grew up with rifles and shotguns and when i served in the military trained on rifles, so i just need to get more comfortable with the pistol.
 
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#2 ·
The Lee Classic Turret kit from Kempfs is where I would recommend starting. You can get it with the .357sig dies and I would recommend upgrading to the auto drum or pro auto disk powder measure for a little extra. Pick up a beam powder scale to go with the kit. You need some case lube with the steel Lee .357sig dies. I mix a tube of Lee lube in a spray bottle with 16oz of rubbing alcohol.(90% alcohol or more) Spray it on the brass and let dry. Or pick up a .40 carbide sizing die and use that in station 1 if you don't want to use lube.

https://kempfgunshop.com/Kempf_Kit_w/_Lee_Classic_Turret_Press_-90064Kit-6575.html
 
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#3 ·
Well $200 is gonna get you about 150rds per hour using a lct. A bit slow for serious shooters & imo, you will need a lot of rds to learn the 357sig in a subcompact. So the step up is a good progressive, not a lee. You can get into a Hornady lnl for about $450, press & other gear. Consider that is less than 2000rds of factory, that is the direction I would go. A lnl will give you an honest 400rds an hour, well worth the cost for me over a lct.
 
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#21 ·
When you buy online you have to buy enough to spread your hm & shipping. It depends on what is available local, but if I order 10 units, 1000 primers or 1# of powder is a unit, then I save money vs buying local. With bullets, its always about shipping cost cuz of weight.
 
#5 ·
You don't buy primers or powder online unless you have a decent sized order to spread the hazmat and shipping costs out. Sometimes you can find free hazmat from various online sellers but there is usually a $150 or more minimum order.
 
#7 ·
ok...I'm just gonna throw this out there....even thou this is a reloading forum.

first let me say I am a reloader and do use the LCT and like it very much.

but what I'm gonna suggest (as I don my flame retardant suit) is an Advantage Arms 22LR kit for your 33 and a couple extra mags.

with the colder weather and having moved further away from my gun club, I've started frequenting an indoor range, not a good place to chase brass, bounces off the divider and lands in front of the firing line, not easily recovered.

bulk 22 LR can be had cheaper than I can reload 9mm, especially if you count your time involve in the proses of reloading, if you keep your eyes open for sales, you can stock up fairly cheaply.

the additional lay out of cash for the AA kit and mags will be more than a 9mm barrel and mags or a LCT reloading set up but I've head mine for a month,have shoot over 1000 rounds and would do it again in a heart beat.
 
#8 ·
You have got some good advice on reloading and how to purchase
supplies, take it and also get this 9mm conversion barrel, only
100 dollars, it is a little long but will work great, I use the same
one in my G27, it also gets more power from the 9mm.

https://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=985

Also if you can cast your own boolits you will shoot for around four
to six cents a shot, one 20 dollar mold will work for both the 9mm
and 357 sig.

Also get one of these too, you will have a complete package,

https://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=999

https://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=920107

By having the barrels to shoot three different rounds you will
be able to take advantage of good deals on the different ammo.
 
#9 ·
You have got some good advice on reloading and how to purchase
supplies, take it and also get this 9mm conversion barrel, only
100 dollars, it is a little long but will work great, I use the same
one in my G27, it also gets more power from the 9mm.

https://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=985

Also if you can cast your own boolits you will shoot for around four
to six cents a shot, one 20 dollar mold will work for both the 9mm
and 357 sig.

Also get one of these too, you will have a complete package,

https://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=999

https://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=920107

By having the barrels to shoot three different rounds you will
be able to take advantage of good deals on the different ammo.
Oh you can use the longer barrel meant for the 32 .357 on the g33?
 
#11 ·
Oh you can use the longer barrel meant for the 32 .357 on the g33?
Yes I have both barrels and they fit in a G33. The Lone Wolf barrels are cheapest but I don't like the company nor really a cheap asian barrel so I would spend a little extra on a KKM barrel.
 
#12 ·
ok...I'm just gonna throw this out there....even thou this is a reloading forum.

first let me say I am a reloader and do use the LCT and like it very much.

but what I'm gonna suggest (as I don my flame retardant suit) is an Advantage Arms 22LR kit for your 33 and a couple extra mags.

with the colder weather and having moved further away from my gun club, I've started frequenting an indoor range, not a good place to chase brass, bounces off the divider and lands in front of the firing line, not easily recovered.

bulk 22 LR can be had cheaper than I can reload 9mm, especially if you count your time involve in the proses of reloading, if you keep your eyes open for sales, you can stock up fairly cheaply.

the additional lay out of cash for the AA kit and mags will be more than a 9mm barrel and mags or a LCT reloading set up but I've head mine for a month,have shoot over 1000 rounds and would do it again in a heart beat.
I actually have thought about the .22LR idea also over going with 9mm barrel. I am just not sure, because it seems many articles i read on them they were good at first, but quickly became bored with them and many stated that they were no longer using them and they were just collecting dust.

I am thinking of going with a cheaper more single stage reloader possibly, i dont really shoot all that often with my rifles, so i am unsure if the habit would continue with the pistol. was looking at maybe picking up the $25 lee single stage press and the $12 all plastic powder loader and just reload the small amount of ammo i shoot on my spare time when im not doing anything. I watched someone on youtube reload 100x 9mm rounds in about 24 minutes using a single stage lee press with the deluxe reloader dies. So i am unsure which route is the best, i need to do some investigation because the range i normally shoot at is indoor and they prohibit you picking up your own brass, so i need to look into other ranges.

plus i need to do some homework on local primer and powder cost to determine if its worth reloading .357 sig with my local prices over going with either 9mm/.22lr route for alternative shooting.
 
#13 ·
The LCT can be used as a single stage or a turret. Takes seconds to switch. You are best off at least going with the turret over a single stage for pistol, even a lot of rifle. A single stage gets old quick and you are always handling cases. This is equipment that will last decades, think of it that way. The gun and reloading equipment is cheap compared to ammo long term.

The .22lr will give you practice, 9mm just will give you more relevant practice. By that I mean you will have a recoil level much closer to .357sig than .22lr. And yes recoil is a factor when it comes to shooting accurately.
 
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#14 · (Edited)
I load 357Sig, and it's not a round I would recommend starting with unless you've got an experienced coach. High pressure round with small neck tension area. Recipe for set back and over pressure. Some rounds are more forgiving than others to someone starting out.

Two ways to reduce the cost of hazmat. 1) buy locally, 2) combine orders with a reloading buddy to share the cost.
 
#15 ·
first I agree with dudel, 357 Sig isn't the best round to start learning reloading with and if you are buying smaller quantity's of supplies, local retailers and group buys are good if you can find what you need, but cost savings becomes less.

don't think your gonna save money reloading, your gonna get more bang for your buck, if your like the most of us here you'll find yourself looking for deals and stocking up for the lean times when prices go up and availability go down, ( read Dem in office).

I guess my mind set is of time vs money, component costs will be the same if you use a SS or progressive press. a full progressive with load ammo quicker but be more in the initial cost lay out and take longer to re-coup your equipment investment. a SS or turret will cost less, re-coup your investment sooner but cost you more time to make ammo.

I guess the questions you should ask yourself is if you have the time to reload and have a place to set up to reload, if you don't have time and your equipment isn't accessible, you won't have anything reloaded before you want to go shooting...and then your back to buying ammo
 
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#17 ·
I see the "anything less than a Dillion" crowd has already spewed their nonsense. Millions and millions of rounds are hand loaded from the other brands. The Dillion crowd just need to justify overspending on equipment.

I don't own a Lee Press but there's absolutely nothing wrong with the advise given concerning their Classic Turret or even one of their single stages like you are considering. Many of those Millions & Millions are reloaded on Lee. I would go so far as to suggest without Lee the reloader ranks would be much thinner than they currently are.

I will second or third the advise to start reloading on the 9mm. When you are comfortable with that try reloading the 357sig. The 357 is kind of a PITA for getting neck tension correct. It would be helpful to seek out a local reloader to mentor you. Barring that Fortunecookie45lc, loads of bacon, Elvis ammo, and thorsaxe777 are good youtubers to learn from.

I use Lyman, Hornady, and Lee dies for most of my reloading. I like that the Lee 4 die sets include the factory crimp die. It gets a lot of heat but it allows for seating and crimping to be done on separate die.

Good luck in your endeavor.
 
#18 ·
I see the "anything less than a Dillion" crowd has already spewed their nonsense. Millions and millions of rounds are hand loaded from the other brands. The Dillion crowd just need to justify overspending on equipment.

I don't own a Lee Press but there's absolutely nothing wrong with the advise given concerning their Classic Turret or even one of their single stages like you are considering. Many of those Millions & Millions are reloaded on Lee. I would go so far as to suggest without Lee the reloader ranks would be much thinner than they currently are.

I will second or third the advise to start reloading on the 9mm. When you are comfortable with that try reloading the 357sig. The 357 is kind of a PITA for getting neck tension correct. It would be helpful to seek out a local reloader to mentor you. Barring that Fortunecookie45lc, loads of bacon, Elvis ammo, and thorsaxe777 are good youtubers to learn from.

I use Lyman, Hornady, and Lee dies for most of my reloading. I like that the Lee 4 die sets include the factory crimp die. It gets a lot of heat but it allows for seating and crimping to be done on separate die.

Good luck in your endeavor.
I also think Lee helped bring the price down on
the other companies, in 1979 I paid around
55 dollars for a 44mag Lyman carbide die set.

You can still get a four die set from Lee for
ten dollars less than that and ten years ago
they were only around 30 to 35 dollars.
 
#19 ·
Dillon is good stuff, I dare say top of the heap for recreational loaders. The thing is a LOT of reloaders would not have even bothered getting into reloading if the price of admission was $500+ up front. Not everyone has the same budget nor the same requirements.
 
#20 ·
Most people that reload shoot about double after they get into reloading. That being said you need to then decide on how much time you have to reload. A SS you can do it but it will get old in a short period of time. From what you have said the least I would go is the Lee LCT with the auto drum measure.and a good not a Lee beam scale. I have found not my first choice of primers is the Winchester that I can get at gun shows for 150. a case with no tax.. A couple of dollars more than online but no shipping or hazmat. Powder I haven't really looked at any at gun shows. What I mostly see when I do look is rifle powders.
I would look at some way to catch your brass before it hits the floor at you indoor range or even trying finding a range that will let you pick up our brass. Even if it a little longer commute.
I have a .22 conversion that sits in the box. Too me they are just a pain and don’t work right half the time. I still can reload 9mm cheaper that what .22 still costs.
 
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#23 ·
I can currently reload 357sig for 12c a round, $120/1000, not including the case but you should be saving any you shoot now. On a good progressive, at an easy pace, 400rds in an hour isnt hard once you figure it all out. That is quite a net savings vs your gross, taxed hourly wage.
 
#26 ·
, but the cost is a huge upset, so many recommended i go the G33 and buy a 9mm conversion barrel since the recoil between the .357 sig and 9mm are roughly the same multiple people stated.

Then i got to thinking, maybe instead of buying into another barrel and mag to shoot 9mm, maybe i can just invest that $200 into a reloader and just reload .357 sig shells that i shoot....

I did some quick searching and it seems there is not a lot of kits or loaders that i can easily find tailored for the .357 sig, most of my results are bombarded by the .357 mag reloader kits...

.
YES, 357SIG costs more than 9mm, but so does .45acp and 40S&W.

NO, the recoil is much greater with a 357SIG, than with a 9mm, .45acp or 40S&W.

While you could buy a single stage press***, and dies, and a case gage, and a calipers, and an electric scale for $200, you could also buy a LoneWolf 9mm conversion barrel for $100. It may run 100% without putting in a new ejector and extractor, or may not.

A press is just a press, it's the dies that determine caliber. 357SIG dies cost more than 9mm, .45acp or 40S&W dies.

*** Lee single stage, Lee dies, etc. So a Lee single is $38, dies are $33, digital scales are around $20, RCBS hand primer tool (with tray) $38, Lee powder measure $26, and a couple of loading trays, and a vibratory tumbler at $27. So your'e into to it for less than $200. Now you have to go get the consumables: powder, primers and bullets. Since the 357SIG is the highest pressure standard round, and has the shortest neck, both powder and bullet selection is limited. The 357 requires a low density slow burning powder, so lets say an 8lb of BE-86 at $130 and 5K of WW small pistol primers at $140, so you out the door delivered cost is $311 with haz mat and ship. Bayou HiTek coated 9mm 120 grain Truncated cone bullets at $69 per thousand, with free ship a the moment, so another $345 in bullets for 5K. You can get once fired 357SIG brass for $50-65 depending on the source. Because the 357SIG has a neck, it has to be lubed during resize and de-prime, and then cleaned off. Loading on a single stage press is very slow and painful. Resize and deprime 50 cases, then hand prime 50 cases, then powder drop 50 cases, then seat (bullet) and crimp (de-bell operation). TADA! 3 hours later, 50 rounds, oh, and then chamber check each and every round.

You get the picture...... What you might have/should have/could have done is get a G19 instead and understand that a caliber choice in a self defense shooting is way more about placement than power. Only a few agencies use the 357SIG. My G31 carry loads are the Double Tap 125grs that I have chrono'd at 1,560 fps while my G17 carry loads are WINSXT127+P+ that chrono at 1,340 fps....
 
#27 · (Edited)
I run about 1,800 rounds of 357SIG a year compared to about 18,000 rounds of 9mm. This is a few of the loads I use. Left to right, 125gr Montana Gold JHP on top of 8.0 grains of BE-86 at 1.145", 124 Bayou HiTek TC, same charge weight and OAL, 151 grain RN Blue Bullet HiTek over 7.4 grains of BE-86. These are for USPSA Limited Major so the 125s go about 1,400 fps and the 151 runs about 1,180 fps. Both have substantial recoil compared to even a +P+ 9mm.



Standard 9mm USPSA Minor floor load

125 grain Black and Blue HiTek bullet, on top of 3.4 grains of TiteGroup at 1.100" OAL. Goes about 1,050fps out of a G17 with a BarSto barrel.

 
#29 ·
Guy asks, "I'm thinking about reloading, what do I need?" And the first thing out of the kool-aid drinkers mouth is, "$2,000 for the right equipment, it'll pay for itself after your 18,000,000 load." Utter hogwash.
Actually the way to amortize the reloading equipment is simply by each bullet loaded. Lets say you start with a Dillon 1050 at $1,800. So your first round is 12 cents for consumables and $1,800 for gear. Round 1 = 1,800.12..... Round 2 = $1,800.12/2 = $900.06..... Round 10 = $1,800.12/100 = $18.00, and Round 1,000 = $1,800.12/ 1,000 = $1.8 and Round 10,000 is $.18, so on and so on and so on.. At the 18th million round, it would only be $.0001. Plus the gear lasts forever, especially a Dillon, they will rebuild the entire thing for nearly free, even if you bought it at a flea market with missing parts. I've tired running Lee progressives, and Hornadys, which I got as match product and sold them immediately.

There is a reason why more than 95% of all USPSA shooters run Dillons. Figure I've gone over 480,000 rounds thru the 550, and about 200,000 rounds the the SD. It did break a swing arm, and a shell plate shoulder bolt, one time, but I called on Wednesday and the parts arrived on Friday.
 
#35 ·
There is a reason why more than 95% of all USPSA shooters run Dillons. Figure I've gone over 480,000 rounds thru the 550, and about 200,000 rounds the the SD. It did break a swing arm, and a shell plate shoulder bolt, one time, but I called on Wednesday and the parts arrived on Friday.
Or idpa shooter. Smart guys buy once & never look back when it comes to tools. I won't even buy a cheap hammer, because I know it will break sooner than a better, probably costlier one.
 
#33 ·
That, and the real value for me is being able to tailor a load to your specific gun. I can't even imagine being a competitive shooter and not reloading. For example, my single stack 9mm really shoots flat with a 165gr bullet. Where would I find that commercially for the same price I can roll them?
 
#31 ·
Guy asks, "I'm thinking about reloading, what do I need?" And the first thing out of the kool-aid drinkers mouth is, "$2,000 for the right equipment, it'll pay for itself after your 18,000,000 load." Utter hogwash.
You're not going to convince anyone with exaggeration. Less than $600 will get you going with a Dillon 550b and a scale (I'm leaving the cost of components out because you'll buy them regardless of the color of the equipment). You can spend even less if you just want pistol calibers (get a SDB).

Sure you can get started for less. But many experienced voices here will testify to upgrading when they out grow the initial equipment. I moved from a RockChucker to a Lee LCT. I out grew the LCT in a mater of months. I would have saved money going directly to the 550b.

Personally, I don't recommend people start with a progressive; but that's just me. Start with a good single stage and learn the process. If you find you don't like reloading (not everyone does), then you have a smaller investment. If you find that you do like reloading, the single stage will find many uses even after you have a progressive press.

An argument I can't find much fault with though, has to do with Dillon resale value. If someone were to start with a Dillon, and finds out that they don't want to reload, then they can recover most of the equipment cost on a Dillon. Not so much on a Lee or Hornady. The market puts a value on Dillon's no BS warranty.

If spending the minimum on equipment was the goal, you could load ammo on a Lee whack-a-mole. The problem is that you could be spending a minute per round (60 rounds per hour). In that same hour you would have done 500 rounds on a 550b. If your time is free, then a whack-a-mole might make sense; if not, you have to upgrade equipment (ie trade dollars for time)
 
#37 · (Edited)
Personally, I don't recommend people start with a progressive; but that's just me. Start with a good single stage and learn the process. If you find you don't like reloading (not everyone does), then you have a smaller investment. If you find that you do like reloading, the single stage will find many uses even after you have a progressive press.

An argument I can't find much fault with though, has to do with Dillon resale value. If someone were to start with a Dillon, and finds out that they don't want to reload, then they can recover most of the equipment cost on a Dillon. Not so much on a Lee or Hornady. The market puts a value on Dillon's no BS warranty.
)
I used to think that, but now when I teach my classes, I steer the new reloader to gear that fits their needs. If it is precision rifle, maybe a Coax, if pistol I have no issue putting them into a Dillon or LNL. Just run them as inverted turrets.
 
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