I realize that each manufacturer has their strengths and weaknesses but for those of you that have had some experience which feature has had the most effect on improving the accuracy of a budget rifle. And no.......ya can't say all three.........
When building or upbrading an AR15 to give it the best chances of being accurate a quality barrel, trigger and free floating the barrel are all equally important imo. Your abilities will be the limiting factor. Give the worst shooter the best rifle and it wont make that shooter shot any better. However give a great shooter a crap rifle and the shooter will be able to shot it well.
My last Noveske build I had to torque to 90ft-lbs to index the nut, but I use a reaction rod which indexes the barrel extension, so there's no stress on the receiver. I would be uncomfortable with only 35ft-lbs.
The trigger group obviously as a first step. Second comes a free-float tube and national match sling. If your a hard core iron sight guy, then switch to national match sights. Lastly, ditch the barrel if it is of sketchy quality.
Use good ammo, not the stuff we use for blasting ammo.
If the components of your low end rifle are functional and safe, I'd leave them alone. I'd shoot the rifle until I wore the finish off!
I'd make certain that your ammunition is correct for the barrel twist rate. For me, 1:9 twist barrels love 55 grain bullets. 1:8 twist barrels thrive on 69 or even 62 grain bullets. Remember, it's the LENGTH of the bullet that makes the difference. As the projectile weight gets heavier, it can't get bigger in diameter. It can only get longer. The barrel twist rate is crucial to stabilizing the slug.
I bought a cheap and homely AR from a gun show table and intended to use it only for offhand (standing) dry fire practice. I messed up and brought that poor rifle to a 200 yard NRA match. It shot so well that it became one of my favorite match rifles! The lesson? Cheap and ugly, or the negative comments of your gun snob friends have NO bearing on the effectiveness of your rifle!
Once the basics of barrel twist rate, ammunition selection, good construction with reasonable trigger are met, then shoot the heck out of it!
If the components of your low end rifle are functional and safe, I'd leave them alone. I'd shoot the rifle until I wore the finish off!
I'd make certain that your ammunition is correct for the barrel twist rate. For me, 1:9 twist barrels love 55 grain bullets. 1:8 twist barrels thrive on 69 or even 62 grain bullets. Remember, it's the LENGTH of the bullet that makes the difference. As the projectile weight gets heavier, it can't get bigger in diameter. It can only get longer. The barrel twist rate is crucial to stabilizing the slug.
I bought a cheap and homely AR from a gun show table and intended to use it only for offhand (standing) dry fire practice. I messed up and brought that poor rifle to a 200 yard NRA match. It shot so well that it became one of my favorite match rifles! The lesson? Cheap and ugly, or the negative comments of your gun snob friends have NO bearing on the effectiveness of your rifle!
Once the basics of barrel twist rate, ammunition selection, good construction with reasonable trigger are met, then shoot the heck out of it!
Of the three choices the only thing that doesn't improve the rifles' accuracy is the trigger. It does help most shooters however. But sometimes that's good enough because most rifles are more accurate than most people can shoot them.
The barrel and free floating of it will make the gun more accurate. A trigger and more optic magnification make it easier to shoot accurately.
Magnification has been absent from this conversation.
I think it makes the biggest difference. If you had two identical, stock 6920’s, except for one has an SSA-E and iron sights the other has a Nightforce 8-32x56 and stock trigger. I would shoot the gun with the scope better.
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