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New Gen 4 g26 50% failure out of box.

15K views 170 replies 75 participants last post by  falrifles 
#1 · (Edited)
At least.

2nd shot light strike. More light strikes. Took it apart check everything and no change. Then FTF and FTE. In about 40 rounds at least 50% failure.

So mad, I traded a nice gun in for this.

What are they going to do to me? I bought it last week. Send it to the factory? Exchange it (I hope). I wouldn't hammer nails with this thing

Wow just wow. I've owned about 12 handguns and always thought glock was the safe way to go.
 
#4 ·
Was the G26 going fully into battery when the light strikes occurred?

By "light strikes", do you mean there was a firing pin indentation on the primers, or no sign of firing pin hits?

It wouldn't be impossible for even a new RSA to be slightly out-of-spec, which could interfere with normal feeding/functioning.

I could see light 115gr bullet weight/budget ammo sometimes offering low slide speed, especially with a newer Glock (or plastic pistol) shooter, and if the slide & barrel were stopping just short of being in-battery, some potential mechanical issues might result ... but there's no way to figure out what might've been happening without being there at the time.

What's your previous experience shooting Glocks, or any other lightweight plastic pistol?

Cleaning/relubricating (lightly, according to manual recommendation), trying some 124gr or 147gr loads, to see if the new gun/light ammo/new owner combo might've been involved, versus an actual "gun problem" that requires repair.

Is there a Glock armorer on-staff where you bought the new Gen4G26? If so, maybe he/she will give you a different RSA to try, to eliminate that possibility?
 
#5 ·
I've owned a flawless g19 for 15 yrs, plus 2 Kahrs and a PPS. Probably 10k rounds through the g19. Never a problem.

There were visible light strikes on the primers. I kept them all. Full battery.

After about 20 rds the ftf's started. All kinds of scuffs on the casings. Kept those too.

I added a couple drops of Remington oil to the slide when I took it home last week.
 
#6 ·
Well, if you can shoot a couple of plastic Kahrs and a PPS, a G26 ought not cause you any particular grief, from a shooter's perspective. ;)

Forgot to ask if the primer hits were centered (think of what they look like in your G19), or slightly off-center. If off-center, I'd take a closer look at your extractor & extractor tension and/or the RSA.

Spring cups not kinked or "over-lapped" at one of the edges?

Firing pin safety have easy freedom of movement? (Spring not kinked or twisted over?)

Slide lock lever have the hooked edge facing rearward?

FP tip look normal (chisel tip)?

I'd still have an experienced Glock armorer check it out, to make sure the FP and FPS aren't experiencing excessive battering (improper FPS interference with the FP, which lessens to the FP strike energy).
 
#7 · (Edited)
My dealer is not a glock armorer but I've bought plenty of guns from him and currently have two for sale in his case.

I don't know what his options are but imagine that at best it's going back to glock under warranty which is really pathetic. If it does I will pull my Kahrs from his cabinet and keep them. They work. When I get the g26 back I will put 200 reds through it, and if I have one failure I will send it to ISIS and do my part to eliminate them.
 
#12 ·
Light strikes are all off center.

Striker tension seems fine.
Off-center FP hits are often indicative of:
Tight extractor
Slide lock lever reversed or not properly beveled
Weak recoil spring

Sure, a sufficiently dirty gun may sometimes be involved, but a NIB gun starting to do it in less than a magazine load? I'd look more toward the 3 potential causes listed above, to start the diagnostic process.

I'd also make sure the extractor depressor plunger and bearing were installed properly (plastic-to-plastic & steel-to-steel).

Not impossible for a tight extractor to come along, or a slide lock lever to have been installed incorrectly (yes, even during initial production/assembly), or for the lever to be improperly beveled.

Glock could look at the slide lock lever, to make sure it appears normal, and replace the RSA and the extractor, fire a magazine load to confirm function (for them), and send the gun back to you to try again. Unless, of course, they see something when checking the gun which was missed during assembly the first time.
 
#9 ·
If he's a stocking Glock dealer, it's too bad he never sent any of his employees to an armorer class, as at least an armorer could replace a couple parts (RSA? Extractor?) at no cost to you to see if that's all it takes. Sometimes "parts-is-parts" guns just need a different part. Also, remember that the RSA is actually an assembly (Recoil Spring Assembly of parts), and while not common, it's not unknown for a new RSA to be less than perfect. (It happened to me when I was trouble-shooting some erratic ejection issues in my 2010 production NIB G26, as well as having to try a couple of ejectors and extractors, and then the gun has remained fine for a few thousand rounds.)

An experienced shooter (especially of little plastic guns) ought to be able to run light bullet weight/budget 9mm, although many shooters express they like the extra little bit of "power" they experience when shooting the heavier 123/124 & 147gr loads, especially when first using a new (manufactured) gun.
 
#10 ·
thks. I'm sure the rsa was assembled poorly, it's the only explanation. But shocking to leave the factory like that.

This was to be my New edc, I traded an awesome cz p09 towards it, and picked up two holsters, so I am basically screwed unless they give me a new gun that works, because I will never carry this gun no matter if they fix it.
 
#14 ·
... so I am basically screwed unless they give me a new gun that works, because I will never carry this gun no matter if they fix it.
I can understand how some gun owners might feel some trepidation at carrying/using a repaired gun, but it's not at all out of the ordinary to continue to use other equipment which has been repaired ... like motor vehicles. A problem with a small part or assembly isn't indicative of a "problem" with the whole machine (in this case, a gun).

As a LE armorer for Glock, and for a variety of other makes/models of guns, I've had to make repairs and correct problems with brand new guns (and used guns, of course) which didn't involve having to "replace" the entire gun. It happens. That's why the major gun companies have field armorer programs, so LE armorers can learn to identify and resolve simple problems outside the factory.

I've had to make repairs and corrections (including replacing major and minor parts & assemblies) in agency-owned guns, personal guns belonging to other folks and even my own guns. Once correctly repaired and operating normally, it's just another normally operating gun. ;)

Notwithstanding the existence and interpretation of any state's particular "lemon laws", it's not out of the ordinary for a gun company's repair techs/smiths to sometimes have to make more than a single attempt to correct and resolve a problem.
 
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#11 ·
Off center strikes indicate the gun is not fully in battery.

There are a couple of typical things that can cause the gun to stay out of battery intermittently. The same parts that can inhibit a gun from going fully into battery can also cause feed issues.

If you are handy mechanically I would look over the extractor and the RSA. Those would be first on my list to investigate if I had a gun that wasn't returning to battery 100% of the time.

If you aren't handy, maybe look up a local armorer and tell him about the off center strikes.
 
#96 · (Edited)
If you are handy mechanically I would look over the extractor and the RSA. Those would be first on my list to investigate if I had a gun that wasn't returning to battery 100% of the time.

If you aren't handy, maybe look up a local armorer and tell him about the off center strikes.
If you are or are not "handy mechanically", a brand new Glock should not exhibit that crap performance!
That Glocks are so unquestioningly reliable is the bulk of their charm, and what allows you to overlook some ergonomic shortcomings...
With this level of performance, he ought to go with any other poly-striker pistol and expect at least this level of satisfaction...
 
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#13 ·
I can't see how the RSA can cause light strikes, but many here are more knowledgeable than me.

Anyway, sounds like something in the firing control system, maybe even something simple. Take the FP assembly apart, I would suspect the spring first off. Check the dimension of the FP protrusion.

Can you move it back and forth freely after depressing the FP safety plunger? If you shake the slide with the plunger depressed does it rattle going back and forth? It should.

Check the slide rails. Are they solid? That is an inmold part and they can be tricky to do correctly especially as the mold wears. Good luck.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Slide lock release looks fine. I don't see how that could go in upside down.

Extractor tension seems reasonable.

But what I do notice is that the slide does not slide on or off smoothly and at an even angle. It seems as if the part of the trigger bar assembly that sticks up is off center. Half way through sliding the slide on you've got to angle it a few degrees to line up the slot at the back of the slide with that part of the trigger as assembly that lines up. And when removing the slide, you feel the friction and have to move the slide off center to complete removal. I don't ever remember that with my gen 3. Seems very unnatural
 
#16 ·
Slide lock release looks fine. I don't see how that could go in upside down.
Not upside down, but reversed (front/back).

Extractor tension seems reasonable.
Since Glock doesn't offer their extractor bar gauges to US armorers, you don't really have any way to determine the "reasonableness" of the specs and extractor "tension" by eye or touch. Maybe some excessive gouging might indicate a spec issue, which could induce "tightness", but some rubbing and scratching is considered normal.

I ended up having to try 5-6 extractors (and a couple of RSA's and ejectors) before my new G26 was suddenly "just fine", and operated as well as my older G26. This was while working closely (calls) with Glock repair techs over some time (as it was a supplemental G26 for me, and I wasn't in a rush to trouble-shoot it, having other things going on at the time).

But what I do notice is that the slide does not slide on or off smoothly and at an even angle. It seems as if the part of the trigger bar assembly that sticks up is off center. Half way through sliding the slide on you've got to angle it a few degrees to line up the slot at the back of the slide with that art of the trigger as assembly that lines up. And when removing the slide, you feel the friction and have to move the slide off center to complete removal. I don't ever remember that with my gen 3. Seems very unnatural
Some Glocks may "feel" different in such respects, for different amounts of time, but each gun would have to be considered on an individual basis before determining whether it was "unnatural". Some can just be a little stiffer in such ways, especially when new (and especially sometimes if we're comparing smaller models to larger ones).

It sort of sounds like you're just trying to talk yourself into getting rid of it. Your prerogative, of course. Doesn't mean the G26 can't be put into perfectly normal functioning condition, and wouldn't serve you as intended, once whatever is causing this issue can be identified and corrected.

The last troublesome G26 I had come across my bench was due to the owner installing some expensive aftermarket parts, and what appeared to be a factory RSA spec issue, all of which were easily resolved by replacing the aftermarket parts with new OEM parts (including a 3rd RSA).

The last obviously problematic RSA I remember was in someone's NIB G27, where early during the very first range session, the front of the RSA came apart and the spring came out the front of the slide, causing the pistol to seize up. A new replacement RSA put the G27 back in normal functioning condition.

Sometimes in an occasional parts-is-parts guns (drop-in parts that don't require fitting), it may take trying one or more parts in any particular gun. I've been told that in armorer classes for a few different makes/models of good quality guns that see LE/Gov use. ;)
 
#20 ·
Consider turning your Kahrs into a G43, to try.

Let Glock (or a local armorer, if you can find one) trouble shoot the G26. Yes, it can be disappointing to the verge of being "appalling" to be the recipient of a new gun with issues. BTDT. ;) It happens, though.

The little G43 has become Glock's best-selling model in recent months, and it's a handy little model for the cop looking for a small off-duty/secondary weapon, or the private citizen/CCW licensee looking for a diminutive, lower capacity pistol to serve as a low profile, handy concealment gun. The G43 (and the S&W Shield 9) have a good chance of becoming the 21st century's new "chiefs special" of small defensive handguns.

Having long ran the gamut from carrying large revolvers and pistols for off-duty weapons, and then discovering the practicalities and sufficiency of smaller, lower capacity revolvers and pistols for personal defense roles, the little 6-7 rounds pistols are very handy options.
 
#21 ·
I went with a cm9, vs g43, and i concluded my hands are too large for both. The length of pull for a g26 is perfect for me and I don't want to go back to gun hoarding. I test fired a g26 twice and can't see a more perfect ccw for my hand.

But I've never had to abort a range day. I loaded up with 300 rds of ammo and probably should have surrendered after 20, but I wanted to try another brand of ammo. In the end it felt UNSAFE. That bad in my 20 yrs of shooting.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Says Austria on slide, and AUS/GA on frame.

Yes, NIB. And no where do I exaggerate. 2nd rd. light strike, then more and more malfunctions.

I've been to the range monthly or at least quarterly for 20 yrs. worst I've seen before was a kimber that didn't like hollow points. This was amazing.
 
#33 ·
I have a G26g4 and LOVE it. I have never had a single issue with this EDC. I would suggest to send it back to the pro's at Glock and have them put it back into spec. Don't "mess" with something in this nature that you are not qualified to fix.

Face it, things happen. Not every item comes off the shelf and is 100%. Give Glock a chance to get it back to 100%. You will love this model. Good luck.
 
#35 · (Edited)
I've calmed down now and thought about everyone's suggestions. I found a video on testing the RSA, the vertical test, and the slide sticks at the end, and I remember small failures in returning to battery. So replacing the RSA is up there. They may just mail me a new rsa, but I don't want to spend my summer dealing with this, I'd rather just send the whole gun back.

If I bought a tv, or anything else that didn't work 100% on day 1 they'd just exchange it for me. For the price and reputation of a Glock I think this is total bs. But i guess they can't test fire it in the parking lot.
 
#44 ·
I've calmed down now and thought about everyone's suggestions. I found a video on testing the RSA, the vertical test, and the slide sticks at the end, and I remember small failures in returning to battery. So replacing the RSA is up there. ....
Sounds like the RSA may be the issue. I would almost certainly try a different one. Yours would not be the first new Glock that needed a RSA swapped out.


....

The little G43 has become Glock's best-selling model in recent months, and it's a handy little model for the cop looking for a small off-duty/secondary weapon, or the private citizen/CCW licensee looking for a diminutive, lower capacity pistol to serve as a low profile, handy concealment gun. The G43 (and the S&W Shield 9) have a good chance of becoming the 21st century's new "chiefs special" of small defensive handguns.

....
Interesting - I wonder when they were designing and testing if either Glock or S&W thought they were going to be as popular as they have turned out to be.
 
#39 ·
Frustrating day for you I'm sure. New gun days are exciting then to have that happen. I'm hopeful that Glock will make it right for you. I have three G26 Gen 4's, collectively, nearly 6,000 flawless rounds through them. Not a single issue. So I'm hopeful you'll end up with a fully functioning and reliable G26, eventually. Good luck.
 
#40 ·
Unlike the larger pistols in Glock's line-up, the subcompacts already were using the twin-spring RSAs long before the larger models, so the differences between the Gen3s and Gen4s in the subcompact lineup aren't as numerous as the larger models. As fastbolt said, it's probably just a single random bad part; darn frustrating, but it happens with every mass-produced machine at some point.

And I fully agree with your intention to test it fully after any repair. If it completes this testing successfully, that will go a long way to restoring your confidence.
 
#41 ·
To start with, either call and ask for Glock to send you a RSA, or, if you don't want to wait another 2-4 weeks, just buy one and put it in the G26. Then, take it to the range, using the same ammo. Considering the frequency of issues you were initially experiencing, if you could run 4-6 trouble-free magazine loads through it, I'd be inclined to suspect you might've identified your "problem".
 
#45 ·
Forgive me if I missed it while reading through this thread.

But when you called a Glock what did they suggest?
Havent called them yet. But from the helpful people in this thread and other threads there seems to have been a bad run of RSA's. Something about when they added a washer to the end. It would explain a lot, but not everything.

The spring seems pretty weak in general. If my range doesn't stock any I will call TUE and see what they say. If I have to ship it hopefully my dealer will do that.
 
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