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New J Frame

6K views 93 replies 51 participants last post by  oldengineer 
#1 ·
After pocket carrying my 637-2 (in a pocket holster) and having an occasional issue with the hammer hanging up on the draw, I purchased a 642.

The only downside I see is the double action only, but after shooting Glocks for so long, I don't anticipate this being a problem.
 
#89 ·
Better yet...buy a Ruger LCR. It doesn't need a trigger job or spring replacement. FWIW, I've owned five J-frames.
 
#5 ·
Congrats.

It may require a little bit of a learning curve to master DAO, but it's usually worth the effort. Someone who learns to master DA/DAO revolvers may often discover they've noticeably improved their all around handguns skills.

I'd be hesitant to rush out and try to reduce anything about the trigger pull and trigger recovery, as reducing spring tension of the main spring can result in light strikes (especially with harder primers), and a lightened rebound slide spring can result in sluggish, or incomplete, trigger recovery.

I know some folks do it without experiencing issues, but it's a potential risk that may be avoided.

Case in point ...

When I bought my first 642-1 (first Airweight I'd ever owned), the then-head revolver armorer suggested I might try a reduced power rebound slide spring. He was an experienced S&W and Colt revolver armorer, and had built some very nice competition "Wingmaster" type revolvers, so I let him have the gun for some work.

He cleaned up/deburred the factory new edges of a few things inside the action; left the mainspring alone but had me try a series of reduced power rebound slide springs (aftermarket 3-pack from a reputable spring maker).

The lightest of the springs wouldn't let the trigger recover virtually every time I tried the trigger (even with all the inside surfaces clean and deburred, with the proper lubrication).

The middle spring allowed for frequent trigger recovery, but not consistently, and it was somewhat "less than brisk" even when it did recover.

The heaviest of the reduced power springs allowed for trigger recovery every time, and it felt "brisk enough" with a clean and freshly inspected/lubed revolver.

So, off to the firing line over the next few months, with a couple cases of ammo and some odds & ends of older carry ammo I'd previously like to use in my 649 & 36. Things were good.

Then, one day, as I was performing some rapid shot string drills, I discovered that the trigger's recovery wasn't keeping up with my trigger finger at times. The trigger's recovery seemed the same when checked for dry-fire, but suddenly I was able to start "out-running" the trigger's recovery when really pushing myself while working to bring my revolver skills back.

It concerned me, so we removed the reduced power rebound spring and put the factory spring back in. Suddenly, the trigger recovery was brisker and very firm. There wasn't any way for me to outrun the trigger's recovery ... and ... I discovered the trigger pull felt the same as when the lighter spring had been in it. I suppose all that range practice had reawakened my DA revolver skills (I'd not carried a duty revolver for something like 8 years, by that time), and now the difference between the standard versus the reduced power rebound slide spring wasn't noticeable in trigger pull weight ... but it was when it came to trigger recovery. ;)

Another thought which occurred to me wasn't exactly a new one, and that was that having a little less tension and power to drive the trigger's recovery might potentially become even more problematic if the gun were to become contaminated (or just fouled, inside). The factory rebound slide spring was designed to help function the gun even if it wasn't nicely cleaned and lubed. ;) Lighter springs might be borderline, and adversely affect the trigger's recovery sooner, if the gun became dirty or contaminated, than a gun using a stronger factory spring.

It's not uncommon for many competitive revolver shooters to use even heavier than standard rebound slide springs, so the trigger recovery can keep up with their highly trained trigger manipulation, too.

A few years later I found myself going through a S&W revolver armorer class myself, and I had the opportunity to listen to the experiences of other current revolver armorers, as well as the guy running the armorer training program at that time (who had formerly worked at a custom gun company, making hand-built revolvers). Since I keep my DA & DAO revolvers for defensive carry, and I'm not ever planning to need a lightly sprung gun for cutting edge competition, I leave the factory springs in my guns.

I even pulled the lightened mainspring from my Service-Six, when it was returned from MagNaPort for a Duty Tune, putting the factory spring back in it. As I recall, the gentleman with whom I spoke assured me that their tuning would allow for reliable functioning with the lighter mainspring spring they used, as long as I was reasonably circumspect with the primers used in any ammunition, but I didn't feel like needlessly risking coming across the occasional hard primer in even fresh factory JHP ammunition.

Whenever I have someone new to revolvers ask me about using a lighter spring (or springs) to "help" them more quickly learn their snub shooting, I suggest they invest the time to learn to shoot the snub in its stock form. It will likely make them a better revolver (and pistol) shooter, even it make take a little investment in time and effort.

Nowadays I stop short of calling lightened springs a "crutch", but they may serve to slow the complete development and capabilities of some shooter, especially when it comes to trying to master trigger pull technique.

You've only gotta suit yourself, though, after all.

Congrats again on the 642. I liked my original production model (just when they'd been rated for a diet of +P) so much, that I bought another one before I retired, when they reintroduced the "1" version. Handy little J's. :)
 
#16 ·
Congrats.

It may require a little bit of a learning curve to master DAO, but it's usually worth the effort. Someone who learns to master DA/DAO revolvers may often discover they've noticeably improved their all around handguns skills.

I'd be hesitant to rush out and try to reduce anything about the trigger pull and trigger recovery, as reducing spring tension of the main spring can result in light strikes (especially with harder primers), and a lightened rebound slide spring can result in sluggish, or incomplete, trigger recovery.

I know some folks do it without experiencing issues, but it's a potential risk that may be avoided.

Case in point ...

When I bought my first 642-1 (first Airweight I'd ever owned), the then-head revolver armorer suggested I might try a reduced power rebound slide spring. He was an experienced S&W and Colt revolver armorer, and had built some very nice competition "Wingmaster" type revolvers, so I let him have the gun for some work.

He cleaned up/deburred the factory new edges of a few things inside the action; left the mainspring alone but had me try a series of reduced power rebound slide springs (aftermarket 3-pack from a reputable spring maker).

The lightest of the springs wouldn't let the trigger recover virtually every time I tried the trigger (even with all the inside surfaces clean and deburred, with the proper lubrication).

The middle spring allowed for frequent trigger recovery, but not consistently, and it was somewhat "less than brisk" even when it did recover.

The heaviest of the reduced power springs allowed for trigger recovery every time, and it felt "brisk enough" with a clean and freshly inspected/lubed revolver.

So, off to the firing line over the next few months, with a couple cases of ammo and some odds & ends of older carry ammo I'd previously like to use in my 649 & 36. Things were good.

Then, one day, as I was performing some rapid shot string drills, I discovered that the trigger's recovery wasn't keeping up with my trigger finger at times. The trigger's recovery seemed the same when checked for dry-fire, but suddenly I was able to start "out-running" the trigger's recovery when really pushing myself while working to bring my revolver skills back.

It concerned me, so we removed the reduced power rebound spring and put the factory spring back in. Suddenly, the trigger recovery was brisker and very firm. There wasn't any way for me to outrun the trigger's recovery ... and ... I discovered the trigger pull felt the same as when the lighter spring had been in it. I suppose all that range practice had reawakened my DA revolver skills (I'd not carried a duty revolver for something like 8 years, by that time), and now the difference between the standard versus the reduced power rebound slide spring wasn't noticeable in trigger pull weight ... but it was when it came to trigger recovery. ;)

Another thought which occurred to me wasn't exactly a new one, and that was that having a little less tension and power to drive the trigger's recovery might potentially become even more problematic if the gun were to become contaminated (or just fouled, inside). The factory rebound slide spring was designed to help function the gun even if it wasn't nicely cleaned and lubed. ;) Lighter springs might be borderline, and adversely affect the trigger's recovery sooner, if the gun became dirty or contaminated, than a gun using a stronger factory spring.

It's not uncommon for many competitive revolver shooters to use even heavier than standard rebound slide springs, so the trigger recovery can keep up with their highly trained trigger manipulation, too.

A few years later I found myself going through a S&W revolver armorer class myself, and I had the opportunity to listen to the experiences of other current revolver armorers, as well as the guy running the armorer training program at that time (who had formerly worked at a custom gun company, making hand-built revolvers). Since I keep my DA & DAO revolvers for defensive carry, and I'm not ever planning to need a lightly sprung gun for cutting edge competition, I leave the factory springs in my guns.

I even pulled the lightened mainspring from my Service-Six, when it was returned from MagNaPort for a Duty Tune, putting the factory spring back in it. As I recall, the gentleman with whom I spoke assured me that their tuning would allow for reliable functioning with the lighter mainspring spring they used, as long as I was reasonably circumspect with the primers used in any ammunition, but I didn't feel like needlessly risking coming across the occasional hard primer in even fresh factory JHP ammunition.

Whenever I have someone new to revolvers ask me about using a lighter spring (or springs) to "help" them more quickly learn their snub shooting, I suggest they invest the time to learn to shoot the snub in its stock form. It will likely make them a better revolver (and pistol) shooter, even it make take a little investment in time and effort.

Nowadays I stop short of calling lightened springs a "crutch", but they may serve to slow the complete development and capabilities of some shooter, especially when it comes to trying to master trigger pull technique.

You've only gotta suit yourself, though, after all.

Congrats again on the 642. I liked my original production model (just when they'd been rated for a diet of +P) so much, that I bought another one before I retired, when they reintroduced the "1" version. Handy little J's. :)
 
#7 ·
That gun is the salt of the Earth. Will always have a role in SD.
 
#13 ·
642! The only gun I ever dry fired and put a hole in the ceiling. Sending our cat off my wife's lap in full time 4paw drive, leaving 8 streaks of scratch up her torso. I had cleaned it and dry fired it several times. Loaded it to stash it in the secret space. At that moment my muscle memory took over and BOOM! A reminder in the correct handling of any loaded weapon since.
 
#15 ·
I have a 637-2 and carry it IWB also. If i wore pants big enough for pocket carry i would probably be mistaken for a circus clown. I have carried it in a coat pocket but only an empty pocket to avoid problems. I was would like a 642 now that i have practiced double action shooting, I didn't think it would be that easy, but as said, practice, practice, practice
 
#17 ·
Nice choice. I have a couple also.

Congratulations.
 
#18 ·
Oh yeah, and don't be shocked if you notice some occasional sparks coming from the barrel when dry-firing. :alex:

Kind of reminds me of the older toy "spark guns" (joke :) ).

The modern style S&W revolver firing pins can do that.
 
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#20 ·
Thanks all. I had a 649 which for some dumb reason I sold. Holsters weren't as available as now and I couldn't find one that would secure it well enough.
 
#26 ·
Now get yourself a Blackhawk #3 pocket holster for $10 at Walmart. It's thin and lightweight, and the best I've found. Tried Mika, Galco horsehide, and DeSantis Nemesis pocket holsters and they just added too muck bulk. One of the keys to successfully pocket carrying a J is thinness, and the cheap Blackhawk and Uncle Mikes holsters do it best.
 
#27 ·
My S&W-type snubbies are not built for +P ammo, and I use them as ankled backups. They've been modified to fire double-action-only with bobbed hammer spurs.

On the other hand, I carry Ruger SP-101 .357 Magnum snubbies as primaries occasionally. They have been customized to shoot double-action-only with bobbed hammer spurs. The actions have been smoothed, but not lightened. I tend to carry them AIWB. I like loading them with .38 Special +P 158 gr. LHP rounds, which I used to good effect against an armed robber twenty years ago.
 
#29 ·
I carry a 640 with Speer GDHP short barrel loads and Crimson Trace laser grips in a Galco pocket holster. A little heavy, but recoil is a lot better in an all stainless j-frame. I also picked up a 43C so I could practice my DAO trigger technique with 22lr ammo. The key is to practice, then practice some more. Also, remember, if there's a problem, all you need to do is pull the trigger again. You don't have to rack, bump, rack again, eject, rack, dance the hootchie coochie, sacrifice a virgin, and then call a time out!

-=BDD=-
 
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