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Glock Questions

Glock 17 
1K views 24 replies 12 participants last post by  Jonny15678 
#1 ·
So I'm starting to become familiar with my glock and how the internals function. I have a few questions about cleaning and lubrication. Is it okay to get some lube around the firing pin safety? Also when cleaning the inside of the slide where the barrel rest in place is it ok to scrubb that area with a nylon brush, is there any risk with scratching the material? Lastly is it ok to get little fibers from my cleaning rag inside the slide and lower?
 
#4 ·
You want to keep the firing pin channel clear and clean so that moisture and lube doesn't attract and trap debris and cause light strikes. On the grounds that a certain amount of whatever lube you apply to the firing safety can migrate to the firing pin channel, I would vote against lubing it.

I agree with Larry T that the spot you are talking about shouldn't need a brush, but you aren't going to hurt anything there with a nylon brush, either.
 
#7 ·
I make it a habit to use alcohol to clean the slide area with a q-tip and patch. I use the q-tip to clean the channel where the rails ride and, where the barrel makes contact with the slide (tops and openings), and the area around the firing pin safety. I use the patch to clean all the other areas. I wipe the breech face with the patch since I don't want any cleaning solution from entering the firing pin channel.
 
#9 ·
I use Froglube many suggest covering everything and wiping away excess. Me I really keep everything out of striker channel and safety plunger. Even with FL I leave it to RAILS, Barrel and top of slide.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I really enjoy cleaning my Glocks. Much of my process is based off of Hickok45's Glock cleaning video, but I take it just a touch further.

Supplies:
  • Ballistol
  • Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner
  • Rubbing Alcohol
  • Long, wood-stemmed cotton swabs
  • Cleaning patches
  • Copper bristle bore brush
  • Nylon bristle bore brush
  • Cotton rag (old t-shirt)
  • Microfiber towel
Simple Cleaning Method:
  1. Field-strip (advance method includes detailed slide strip)
  2. Spray down barrel inside and out with Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner and let soak (andisposable plastic plate or bowl is helpful to set the barrel down in while soaking).
  3. While barrel is soaking, spritz a cotton rag with more Hoppes cleaner and scrub down every part of the frame I can reach with my fingers. I usually start at the muzzle-end, work my way across the top of the frame and finish through the mag-well (spritzing more cleaner onto my rag as necessary.
  4. Using cotton swabs dipped in rubbing alcohol, I dig down into the smaller nooks and crannies of the frame.
  5. Using a second rag dabbed with rubbing alcohol, I wipe down the entire frame once more to remove any remnants of the Hoppes cleaning solvent.
  6. Once dry, the frame then gets a third and final wipe down with a clean microfiber towel and set asside in the gun's clean-case.
  7. Using the first rag with Hoppes on it, I start wiping down all the magazines I used, applying more Hoppes as needed. When dry, they get the same second-wipe-with-alcohol, third-wipe-with-dry microfiber treatment the frame got and are set aside in clean-case.
  8. When mags are finished, I dry off outside of soaking barrel with a rag and start going after the inside with a copper bore brush. Brushing is done with purpose, but only in the direction bullets travel, back-to-front (when brush pokes out front of barrel, I unscrew from rod, remove rod, reassemble and push through barrel again).
  9. When satisfied the majority of carbon has been loosened or removed from brushing, I switch to nylon bore brush wrapped with one patch (I don't use jags) sprayed with Ballistol and begin running alternating Balistol-dry-Ballistol-dry patches until patches run through clean (always ending on a dry patch).
  10. I then lube the outside of the barrel with a patch soaked in Ballistol and let the Ballistol soak into the barrel.
  11. While the barrel is soaking again, I move to the slide which gets the same wipe down procedure as frame except when finished, I take another Ballistol sprayed patch and begin lubing then outside of the now noticeably-dry-slide. I take great care to ensure that I don't get any Ballistol onto the striker tip, striker face or inside the striker channel/assembly. I also go so far as to make sure there is no Ballistol in be general vicinity of the striker since the Ballistol will spread naturally over time.
  12. Once outside of slide is treated, I transition to application of Ballistol to the underside of the slide that touches the barrel and the slide rails using cotton swabs.
  13. I let the slide settle and wipe down the guide-rod/spring-assembly with the alcohol rag followed by the slightest wipe from a Ballistol patch.
  14. I then very lightly wipe the barrel down with one clean patch and reassemble the Glock.
  15. Once assembled, I let the Glock settle for about 15 minutes then give it one last external wipe-down with the clean micro fiber.
Ocassilnally I'll do a full detail strip of the slide in conjunction with this simple cleaning - following, of course the key tenet that "thou shall not lube the striker or striker assembly."

Hell of a sight the Glocks are after cleaning. So damned satisfying to have clean, in-hand. Photo from most recent cleaning attached.
 

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#16 ·
So I got as much lube out of there as I could. Lost a patch down the firing pin channel in the process lol. Was able to retrieve it. Now I cant seem to get much lube out of the channel extractor depressor plunger channel because of how narrow it is in there. Everything else is completely dry. If I was to let it sit out as is would the lube dry up or no? Also am I screwed that there was lube down in these channels?
 
#17 ·
You don't want lube down there simply for the reason that any dirt/crud will stick to the lube and eventually gum up that area. Just clean it out the best you can and periodically inspect/clean that area to make sure nothing builds up in there. At the end of the day, its not the end of the world that some lube got in there, just be sure in the future that you don't put any more lube in that area.
 
#18 ·
No, the lube won't hurt ANYTHING on the gun. You simply don't want to leave any in those places, as it attracts debris. Simply strip the entire slide, and blast the hell out of all those places with a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner, using the straw. (dont get any in your eyes... it will spray back into your face... and nothing burns more), and it will blast out all the lube.

Then let it dry, and reassemble the whole firearm lubed properly. I have never had to clean down inside the hole for the depressor plunger, but I do clean out the entire firing pin channel with a q-tip being very careful to not leave any fibers behind.
 
#19 ·
I just got done cleaning the whole thing I just used patches and microfiber cloth to clean off the lube all around. Used some compressed air to blow out the channel areas just incase any fibers were in there. applied hardly any lube and re assembled the gun. And seems like it's good to go.
 
#21 ·
I know I'm probably being over worried but can cleaning in the firing pin channel with patches like really stuffing them in there to clean can that damage the liner by any chance or does it take much more than that. Cause I noticed when I reinserted the firing pin it was quite snug.
 
#22 ·
A simple test for that is to make sure the gun is not loaded, then pull the trigger and keep the trigger pulled as you shake the gun back and forth. You should be able to hear the firing pin as it moves forward and backward.
 
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