I am pretty sure they are MIM. I have polished mine and they are fine. However, I just picked up an Apex for my G19 and that is not MIM and already polished and slightly rounded.
It's bad business to screw around with the FIRING PIN SAFETY, unless you gun is a toy only. It takes very little material loss before the FIRING PIN SAFETY begins failing to clear to permit unrestricted passage of the FIRING PIN. Dick with the FIRING PIN SAFETY only it it does not matter whether or not the gun fires when the trigger is pulled.
Every gun I own has been "screwed" around with all of them have never given me any safety concerns or any any issues in functionality. This "sky is falling" blanket statement is not based on any fact the web is full of what is acceptable and what is on the fringe. As long as reason is used and research, testing is done doing conservative mods arevfine. Polishing a safety plunger by hand is not going to do anything to jepordize safety.
I'm with Mike on this one. The firing pin safety (what you called the safety plunger) is made to specific tolerances and dimensions to ensure that it functions as designed. Rounding off the corners may compromise this safety feature of the gun. I have polished the top of mine, but that's it.
Not necessarily. Depends on what's done to it. You could end up with a problem called firing pin safety bypass, where the firing pin will get past the firing pin safety, even when it's in the 'safe' position. It's one of the reasons Glock always recommend replacing both the firing pin safety and the firing pin AT THE SAME TIME.
I think this may have been one of the questions that led me to Glocktalk years ago.
My 17g3 had a click in the trigger pull before release and I found it was the trigger bar going over the sharp chamfered edge of the plunger. I rounded it ever so slightly and the problem disappeared.
As one who designs things, I generally do agree about not messing with things as designed, but there are aftermarket plungers that are totally round. Not sure how well they function to be honest. I know the Ti ones have had issues.
My initial thought is that the critical dimension that should not be altered is the overall length, and that chamfer on the side is more for manufacturing ease than function. But, I don't work at Glock.
My G17 gen 4 trigger really bothered me. A friend gave me and installed a Lightning Strike Titanium Plunger. It really made a big difference in the trigger (Cost about $20).
I do need to pull it out for visual inspection. I have been told that some have had PITTING on theirs?
Round away if you know what you are doing. Being a machinist with a 12 year apprenticeship, a non-ase mechanic, and decades of machine shop experience, i can assure all of one thing. 50% of all people have no business using, buying, or even touching a tool. They are asking for trouble, but I guess it keeps a lot of gunsmiths, mechanics, and other tradsmen in business.
Some people can just look at a complicated mechanical problem, and immediatly see the issue and how to fix it. Others will try to beat it into working with a hammer, they destroy whatever they touch, but they could be great salesmen, whereas I couldnt sell ice in hell.
The newer MIM plungers are plated and if you go through the plating you will see a copper to bronze type color underneath. The top sharp edge of the 45* is all that needs light blending.
Yup, I kinda figured, like most everyone else they had gone to mim or a cheaper plated metal. When I "lightly" polished mine, they were stainless. But these were early mfg's. This is why I did not go into details on how to do it. Good hard chrome plating should last a lifetime, but dont polish or youll get to nickle then copper and its destroyed.
Been a gunsmith for over 40 yrs . Some people should NEVER work on a gun . They can't even lube there gun correctly . 1/2 the stuff on these forum are BS and best left to knowledgeable people to work on a gun .
I put a Lone Wolf rounded firing pin safety in my G19.
I just stripped the slide and it would not come right out. I had to get some pliers and pull it out. The round edge that comes in contact with the pin is all deformed (similar to the titanium ones).
Ill stick with stock and let shooting it more break in the trigger pull of my shooter guns. Stock parts on a glock just means it will work when its needed to. No more no less.
Order the Apex plunger and keep your OEM parts the way it is, this way you can swap them back and forth and really get a feel for the difference. I'm a big fan of the Apex striker plunger and have installed them in nearly all my Gen 3 and 4 Glocks.
I've had one issue with the stock plunger on a G23Gen3. The plunger looked like the finish wore off and made a gouge. It made the trigger feel really crunchy, like there was sandpaper in the trigger.
I believe the root cause may have been due to lack of cleaning on my part, making the plunger difficult to depress, and I stupidly forced the pull of the trigger.
I now clean the top end regularly (yearly) and also purchased an Apex Plunger.
I assume that Glock, Inc. considers all of the out-of-the-box Glock-factory OEM trigger characteristics - as clunky as they are - to be part and parcel of the Glock safety suite. A long and fairly heavy take-up, a distinct (and heavier again) wall, and a distinctly-perceptible travel all preceed the break. When it comes to shooting an out-of-the-box OEM Glock-factory trigger, our brain is informed by a lot of feedback via your finger.
Sure, it might not be ideal for the die-hard competitor. Sure, an end-user can replace a Glock's trigger, connector, firing pin, cruciform, firing pin block, and all of it's springs, with versions that are lighter, and smoother, and which talk less. And sure, such a pistol would be easier to fire, but...then again...it'd be easier to fire.
I chucked mine up in a drill and used a file to round mine then finished with wet or dry and polished with Flitz and a Dremel. Wasn't two weeks later my wife left me, took my dog with her, and cleaned out our joint accounts. I don't think it was a couincidence.
Some of my Glocks have the polished/rounded mushroom head safeties.
When under pressure, shooting at "active" targets (like during a timed event), I cannot tell which mushroom safety is installed in the Glock I am using...I press until it shoots, it just goes bang and hits the target, rinse, repeat.
In other words, when it really counts, I am not really chewing on how the trigger feels when shooting it-- in other words, it does not matter at the functional level how the trigger feels when I am dry firing it. It makes no difference: keep the stock parts in it.
Use these and carry on. This will not affect the reliability or safety of the striker block safety and will make a difference in smoothing the trigger pull without having to rework anything. Been using these for years and never had a single issue.
GHOST INC. REDUCED POWER FIRING PIN SAFETY PLUNGER SPRING FOR ALL GLOCKS GEN 1-5 & 42/43/43X/48 by Ghost Inc. Aftermarket Glock parts and Glock accessories by Ghost Inc triggers, connectors, baseplates, and slide releases
ghostinc.com
TXPO
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