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Will 10mm Bulge Buster Work Harden Brass?

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by Sgt. Joker, Jan 9, 2014.

  1. Sgt. Joker

    Sgt. Joker

    4
    0
    Dec 26, 2013
    Hello,

    Here is my current set up for the Glock 20 (Gen 3, kkm barrel),

    Load (10mm):
    Starline Brass
    180gr Montana Gold Bullet (FMJ)
    12.5gr Accu No. 9
    WLP Primers

    Reloading (all done w/ Lee's):
    1) Re-size, Deprime (Decap)
    2) Bulge Buster
    3) Prime (Hand Primer)
    4) Flare and Charge
    5) Seat (no crimp)
    6) Crimp (Lee FCD)

    My COL is ~ 1.255"
    (range 1.250-1.260")
    My cartridge diameter is ~ 0.422"
    (range 0.419-0.423")

    My question...Will running the resizing die and the bulge buster work harden the brass, particularly near the case head?

    Do you all find that the bulge buster is necessary?

    I don't see "noticeable" bulges on my brass. I am running this die more as a full length resize so my brass will chamber properly.

    Thank you in advance for your reply!
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2014
  2. Colorado4Wheel

    Colorado4Wheel

    14,938
    170
    Nov 2, 2006
    CO

  3. WeeWilly

    WeeWilly

    3,540
    357
    Nov 12, 2011
    Idaho
    You only get a benefit from a G-Rx or Bulge Buster if you are running warm loads in a loose chamber and want to reload that brass for a gun with a tighter chamber,

    I use a G-Rx because some of the brass from my hotter loads shot from my G29/G20 will not chamber when sized conventionally in my match 1911 barrels.

    So to answer your original question. Yes it will work harden it some, so doing it only makes sense if you are loading for more than one chamber.

    Ps I run them all through after tumbling before the 1st station of my progressive,
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2014
  4. Sgt. Joker

    Sgt. Joker

    4
    0
    Dec 26, 2013
    Thanks WeeWilly,

    That was a good answer, I didn't think about the process from that angle. I only use the 10mm brass (reloads) in one gun with one barrel (kkm), maybe I shoud omit the bulger buster step, I didn't think I really needed it anyhow.
     
  5. dkf

    dkf

    5,435
    126
    Aug 6, 2010
    The less you "work" the brass the best chance you have of it lasting longer.
     
  6. fredj338

    fredj338

    21,727
    936
    Dec 22, 2004
    so.cal.
    If you don't need to do it, don't do it. Any extra working the brass will make it brittle. Never use "guppy" brass for full power loads. That spot is now a weak point.
     
  7. Taterhead

    Taterhead Counting Beans

    3,604
    112
    Dec 13, 2008
    Boise, Idaho
    After re-sizing, does the brass plunk into the chamber? If so, then the bulge-busting step isn't needed.


    By the way, that sounds like a nice serviceable load that you have there.
     
  8. jmorris

    jmorris

    1,603
    150
    Apr 13, 2006
    I roll size 45, 40, 38 super and 9mm brass, I roll size every case I load. My machine is automatic so you just dump sorted cases into the collator and turn it on. If they don't "need" it, nothing happens to them. I still case gauge every round I shoot in competition just almost never have one fail.
     
  9. orangeride

    orangeride

    575
    15
    Oct 19, 2011
    I use my buldge buster because after a few hot loading in my 20 oem barrel the brass gets so wonkey that Ill start getting multiple ftfeed. Now brass that I shoot in my tighter LW barrel doesn't seems to stretch as much near the base and normal sizing seems to get the job done.