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When cleaning...

Discussion in '1911 Forums' started by youngbuck, Dec 11, 2010.


  1. youngbuck

    youngbuck
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    He's Tyrone!

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    Does anybody have any recommendations for protecting thier grips from being ruined by thier cleaning supplies? Today is my first time to clean my 1911 (since I just got it) and I took my VZ grips off for cleaning. I did this partically so the grips do not stick to my cleaning mat and I am a bit cautious of ruining them by my supplies. Am I just being overly cautious?
     

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  2. Quack

    Quack
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    Rent this space

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    only time i take the grips off is if i detail strip it.
     

  3. polizei1

    polizei1
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    It WAS Quack

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    I'm a bit confused...why would cleaning products get on the grips?
     
  4. youngbuck

    youngbuck
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    He's Tyrone!

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    I am not trying to clean the grips (obviously) just being paranoid that even a little amout of solvent or oil would ruin them if by chance it got on there
     
  5. rsxr22

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    You dont need to worry about ruining your grips!! I never use solvent personally on anything besides the inside of the barrel though. I think mainly because i clean them for the most part after every use. One of the only solvents i know of that would hurt them is sure shot, unless your using that you should be cool. CLEAN AWAY
     
  6. gconan

    gconan
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    Well, you need to clean them with something. Esmeralda recommends Feed-N-Wax for her wood grips. What are VZ grips made out of? slip2000 would not harm your grips. Perhaps M-Pro-7 also?
     
  7. MD357

    MD357
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    I can speak from experience that non-chlorinated brake cleaner wont hurt VZs. What's more important is keeping away solvents from night sights.
     
  8. rsxr22

    rsxr22
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    G-10 are what VZ's are made of
     
  9. rvrctyrngr

    rvrctyrngr
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    Senior Moment

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    Depends on what grips you order. They also use linen and canvas micarta.
     
  10. Jim S.

    Jim S.
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    I take my grips off every time I clean my 1911's.
    I use nice wood grips and want to keep them nice.
    I strip my guns every time I shoot them so it is just part of my routine.
    Also on wood grips I use Minwax finishing wax on the back of the grips so it protects them from any excess oil that may get back there.
     
  11. Cobra64

    Cobra64
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    Deals in Facts

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    The biggest mistake people make is spraying all sorts of solvents, oils, lubes, and other crap all over their guns and leave them dripping wet to attract dirt, grime, lint, powder residue, fouling and taco crumbs.

    You don't need to hose down the frame and slide CLP all-in-one magic juice where it's not necessary.

    The breechface, extractor, and barrel are the only surfaces that require scrubbing with a solvent to remove baked on fouling. Everything else wipes off with a patch dampened with alcohol.

    These Sig P226ST, P220ST, P239 are bone dry prior to applying grease on friction surfaces and a drop of oil to pivot points.


    [​IMG]



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    Grease on rails (oil disappears after the first few rounds) and oil on pivot points.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    The 220 and 226 shots shown above were taken after 5k round details stripping regimen, and routine cleaning of the 239 while still wearing $160 KN Nill stocks.
     
    #11 Cobra64, Dec 12, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2010
  12. Hokie1911

    Hokie1911
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    That's good info Mark. Here I was thinking I was the only guy that had issues with keeping taco crumbs out of there.
     
  13. Cobra64

    Cobra64
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    Deals in Facts

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    Throw out the spray can. :rofl:

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Cobra64

    Cobra64
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    Deals in Facts

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    Paul, I actually first heard that expression from a cop. Of course my response had to do with donuts. :rofl:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. youngbuck

    youngbuck
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    i hate when you show off your sweeeeet Sigs. makes me sad for being a newb :sigh:

    I assure you that I use no spray cans to clean with. I use Hoppes No. 9 and occaisionally Butch's Bore Shine for my barrels. I use an oil wipe for small parts and have a thin point oil dropper for certain areas. Also have Flitz for polishing the feed ramp and a tube of Wilson Combat grease I put on the rails. Thats about everything in a nutshell :dunno:
     
  16. Markasaurus

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    He's right. You could remove the grips but then you are just going to wear out the screw holes and make them loosen faster. I prefer NOT to use loctite on the grip screws.

    My cleaning method is I use brake cleaner to hose off the guns then scrub with a tooth brush before it evaporates. Hose off again, go over with q tips the areas i may have missed, wipe clean, lube with clp and allow to soak for several minutes. Then wipe dry and reassemble.
    The barrel gets clean with the brush and hoppes naturally.

    I have a Hungarian FEG P9 with wooden grips and the brake cleaner, or tri flo or CLP has never hurt them. The grips are varnished or shellacked or something and have been doing this for over a decade. I have had problems with the screws loosening though! and removing them and reinstalling is only going to make this worse (don't particularly want to retap them if i don't have to!)
     
    #16 Markasaurus, Dec 13, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2010
  17. MajorD

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    never saw a need to remove grips- when you field strip (after 10's of thousands of rounds never saw a need to detail strip a 1911-I have not fallen in a swamp or anything with one however) the amount of cleaning agents you need are VERY small- my guns get clean with about 2 or 3 q-tips worth of clp. mostly the frame crud will just wipe off with a rag and pipe cleaners. Same for lube- about 6 drops for the entire gun is plenty- gobs of lubricant and cleaner as mentioned above do nothing but attract more dirt- if your 1911 will not run with light lube there is something wrong.
    In fact the other day a friend of mine got a new to him used gi 1911 -we shot about 100 flawless rounds out of it- I asked him if he olied it before hand and he thought he did- took it apart and it was bone and I do mean bone dry.
     
  18. gconan

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    I do to. It's much easier to clean the magwell area.