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What's Up With My Trigger?

Discussion in 'The 10 Ring' started by Taterhead, Jun 12, 2012.

  1. Taterhead

    Taterhead Counting Beans

    3,617
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    Dec 13, 2008
    Boise, Idaho
    OK guys, I'm a bit perplexed and looking for help regarding the trigger on my Gen 3 G20. I admittedly have never given serious thought about Glock trigger mechanics, so not sure where to start looking.

    Here is what is going on lately: when the gun is cold and clean, the trigger is actually pretty nice for a Glock. That is the normal state. Lately, however, I have noticed that as the gun heats up and gets dirtier the trigger pull gets harder and harder. It is like it doesn't want to break. It gets to the point where I can barely make the trigger break. I thought my old Ruger P89 double action trigger pull was tough.

    I haven't swapped any trigger parts except for the trigger housing about 1500 rounds ago (the ejector was a little bent). The problem showed up subsequent to that. I suspect that might be a coincidence because the problems have only shown up in the last 6-700 rounds I would guess.

    I have detail cleaned it a couple of times since the problem started. That works, until the gun warms and/or gets dirty (maybe 30 rounds in a fairly short period of time). The trigger pull gets harder and harder and harder. Let it cool a bit, and it gets better. After 200 rounds, forget it. Even when cool it is still not right if it is dirty.

    I have thought about just replacing everything (I am not interested in looking at aftermarket parts at this point).

    My gun is well past its "break-in" period. Probably low 5 figures in total round count.

    When I field and detail stripped it, nothing looks out of place, worn, bent, broken, etc.
    Any thoughts? This is perplexing. I have gone 5-800 rounds between cleanings in the past without trouble.

    Thanks guys.
     
  2. _The_Shadow

    _The_Shadow Ret. Fireman

    4,520
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    Jul 23, 2007
    Southeast, LoUiSiAna
    Could it be plunger related? It has to move fairly easily to drop down to allow the striker to strike the round.

    I wonder if using a cleaner burning powder would make a difference?

    Best of luck getting it fixed up!
     


  3. WeeWilly

    WeeWilly

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    Nov 12, 2011
    Idaho
    Definitely a good place to look. Have you detail stripped the slide? If you haven't, I would strip and clean all the channels out completely with extra attention to the well the plunger rides in, maybe use a copper brush in there.
     
  4. what about the angle on the connector? did you bend it out (away from the trigger housing) by accident?
     
  5. nickE10mm

    nickE10mm F.S.F.O.S.

    4,156
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    Apr 13, 2004
    Wichita, KS
    Also, aside from the above things... did the trigger return spring get re-installed backwards (looking from the right, it should look like an S). Check the reinstallation of the striker assembly and firing pin safety and spring, as well.

    Take pics and post them if you like....
     
  6. Taterhead

    Taterhead Counting Beans

    3,617
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    Dec 13, 2008
    Boise, Idaho
    Thanks for the tips guys. It is definitely happens when the gun gets warm. It now has 200 rounds of gunk and the trigger works fine now while cold.

    The slide was completely detail cleaned before yesterday's outing. The various channels, including the plunger well. The plunger is ok. The trigger problem presented itself after about 30 rounds. The gun was nice and warm then. The warmer it got, the worse the trigger became. Let it cool, and things improved.

    I will check the connector and the return spring after I get home from the office.

    I had associated cleaning the gun with solving the problem. What I did not realize, but now do, is that a clean gun is a cold gun. The trigger is great when cold.

    If I could best pinpoint the problem, it is when that cruciform part is supposed to break from that striker part. It is some how binding up - but only when the gun is hot. Otherwise, it cylces normally.
     
  7. WeeWilly

    WeeWilly

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    Nov 12, 2011
    Idaho
    I love a good mystery. What a head scratcher.
     
  8. I would only carry it November through March then.

    Seriously, I'm no help at all. Send her back for a factory diagnostic.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2012
  9. ModGlock17

    ModGlock17

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    DisneyWorld
    :rofl:

    On the serious side, when I was working on modifying trigger bars, I ran into problem of "heavy" trigger pull that came from the plunger tab on the trigger bar PUSHed too hard UP and into the slide, when it actually should slide back into the striker (wasted trigger force). The sign of that is scratches into the plunger hole on the slide. Check for that when you experience the problem. If so, then somehow the heat caused expansion which changed the optimum operating dynamic of the trigger bar.

    Strickly a guess not having seen your gun.

    If you're going to diagnose or get help doing it, then take picture when it is dirty and malfunctioned. Scratches on burnt material can tell a pretty good story.
     
  10. smitty704

    smitty704

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    Aug 18, 2011
    NC
    If its not the striker safety plunger, I would guess its where the trigger bar rides on the connector. Maybe there is some gunk in there. Although I don't know why it would get worse as it heats up!? I'm very curious as to what this issue is.

    Keep us posted.
     
  11. Any Cal.

    Any Cal.

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    Oct 27, 2008
    : Check for galling on the end of the trigger bar and connector, I have had a similar problem. The best way is to replace them both, if one is galled it can ruin the new part. The galling process is accelerated by lack of lubricant there, it is a critical lube point.
     
  12. Yondering

    Yondering

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    Dec 3, 2011
    Did you polish any trigger parts? If you polished it down through the chrome, the softer steel underneath could be sticking.

    Also, is the trigger pull heavy all the way through the stroke, or only right before it breaks?
     
  13. Taterhead

    Taterhead Counting Beans

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    Dec 13, 2008
    Boise, Idaho
    No polishing. However, the parts are all pretty worn. The trigger pull is normal right until the point at which it should break. I think that the cruciform part is getting stuck.

    I did not have a chance to investigate further last night due to a friend unexpectedly coming to town.

    I did dry fire again and the trigger is perfect. But again, the gun is cold.

    Since my gun is well used, I am going to order new parts and start swapping them one at a time to see if I can eliminate the problem.

    This is so weird.
     
  14. Taterhead

    Taterhead Counting Beans

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    Dec 13, 2008
    Boise, Idaho
    I will check that out. It is not a part that I lube, but probably should it sounds like.

    Thanks
     
  15. GRT45

    GRT45 Transform & Win

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    Jun 20, 2010
    Texas
    The Glock Armorer's Manual calls it the most important place to lubricate your pistol. Below is the excerpt from the manual:

    "Most important is one drop of oil placed just under the connector hook (located just above the right rear receiver rail). Any lubricant placed here will move down where the connector and trigger bar meet. If this area is not properly lubricated, the result may be a "hard" trigger pull that can lead to connector and/or trigger bar damage."​

    Pictures below are courtesy of GT member Butch.

     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2012
  16. nickE10mm

    nickE10mm F.S.F.O.S.

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    Wichita, KS
    DEFINITELY lube this area.... While I don't think that could (possibly <gasp>) be why your pistol seems to be seizing on trigger pull (or metal expanding?) .... I think it will help if you'd start lubing there.

    Next thing I'd like to say is.... Does your cruciform bar look all damaged and galled like GRT45's pics below? If so, thats no bueno....
     
  17. ModGlock17

    ModGlock17

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    Dec 18, 2010
    DisneyWorld
    This is intriguing.

    To lube or not to lube, shouldn't be temperature dependent...

    It's the temperature dependency that is intriguing.

    Try dry fire after heating the trigger bar with a hair dryer ?
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2012
  18. Any Cal.

    Any Cal.

    442
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    Oct 27, 2008
    For me the galling was pretty inconsistent. It would work fine, then get harder and harder. I had lightened the trigger quite a bit, and it went from that to feeling like something was jammed inside. I would take it apart and everything looked fine, so I would put it together and start the cycle again. You have to look hard for it, the connector and bar only contact on one edge, and it is in the corner of the connector. It would make things hard enough that the trigger and trigger bar would flex under trying to overcome the friction.
     
  19. Taterhead

    Taterhead Counting Beans

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    Dec 13, 2008
    Boise, Idaho
    Wow. Thank you all for jumping in with some great leads. I have a lot to look at. I will probably not have a chance until Friday since my family is returning from a trip. I will spend some time with the kids tonight.

    Again, I really appreciate the help. GRT45, the photos are very helpful. What did I learn? I need to lube. I probably wore out those parts running them dry for a few years.
     
  20. a few years dry. testament to glocks! great....mystery.... lets know what you find