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What lubricant do you use and why?

24K views 128 replies 91 participants last post by  Gramps45 
#1 ·
By way of educating myself, I would be very grateful to get some information from shooters and gunsmiths about their preference in firearms lubricants.

What brand lubricant do you use?
I would also appreciate it if you would explain why you prefer that particular brand.

I thank you in advance for your replies, it will be very helpful to me.
 
#81 · (Edited)
I'm using frog lube too. It's not a good cleaner on a gun that you didn't treated with frog lube first.

When I get a gun that was not treated with frog lube before, I do first a full cleaning with a good regular gun cleaning solvent. Then I remove all trace of lube with rubbing alcohol. Then I do a frog lube application with heat.

After that, all the next cleanings are a breeze and I just use frog lube.

I've seen that frog lube is now selling a solvent that they recommend for this initial cleaning before applying the CLP.
 
#84 ·
For my Glock 19's any good firearms lube I can get. I can not see it matters much with Glocks. Some firearms require grease and oil so any good firearms lubes.
I do not think there is a whole lot of differences between most.
I've tried them all. High end, low end, and in-between. I've yet to find one that really works that much better than the rest. I don't go in much for combination cleaners/lubricants. I like them separate. I used Slipstream for a while. I liked it fine; but the cost wasn't worth any perceived advantages, to me. Same for the other wonder lubricants. Lately I have been using Valvoline Durablend grease for both rifles and pistols. For GLOCKs I use it on the recommended lube points. For rifles I put a small dab on any place that's shiny as well as the recommended points. It's just too simple to not have to worry about different lubricants. That, and a seven dollar one pound tub of grease will last me for the rest of my life, likely.
 
#86 ·
Hi!

I like to use Slip-2000 725 cleaner-degreaser on heavy carbon fouling and black powder residue. Water based so it cuts the salts well.

For cleaning I like using Rem-Oil out of a spray can on a patch. This picks up the fouling off the metal and leaves a Teflon residue.

Rust protection and light lube I use the Hoppes gun oil or the Outer's Gun Oil. Seems good for that and costs are low.

Grease is red grease in a syringe tube. Shooter's Choice.

No particular reason for the oil or grease, just what I grabbed with the price was right.
 
#87 ·
Hi!

I like to use Slip-2000 725 cleaner-degreaser on heavy carbon fouling and black powder residue. Water based so it cuts the salts well.

For cleaning I like using Rem-Oil out of a spray can on a patch. This picks up the fouling off the metal and leaves a Teflon residue.

Rust protection and light lube I use the Hoppes gun oil or the Outer's Gun Oil. Seems good for that and costs are low.

Grease is red grease in a syringe tube. Shooter's Choice.

No particular reason for the oil or grease, just what I grabbed with the price was right.







Teflon has been around a long time I to like its coating affect
 
#88 ·
I am currently using Jig-A-Loo spray graphite - why? because I'm in a desert of dust and graphite lubricates really well without making the dust stick to it. I fired a lot of rounds through both rifle and piistol on my last tour, using the same, and never had a malfunction.
 
#89 ·
According to most all Glock experts don't over oil I guess this is most important to much oil on a Glock kills it function??
Nothing to do with Glock, that advice goes for all guns. However, older designs, like 1911's, need more lubricant. Glocks function well without it, so the only thing oil does is make dirt stick and even a Glock will fail if you get it dirty enough.
 
#91 ·
Almost all guns will fire wet (lubed) & dirty, however few do dry & dirty.

Bren, I had always heard graphite was bad ju ju for aluminum due to galvanic corrosion.
So I have read, but in real life I've never had a problem with it at all. Maybe it helps to clean it occasionally. It may heolp that all the aprts that get directly lubricated are steel so, at most, a little gets on the aluminum by contact.
 
#94 · (Edited)
Frog lube is ok for Glock, but not for 1911 design gun. (Both metal frame and slide)

My Sig P938 was so dry after firing 100 rounds using frog lube. Now, I specifically use Sig Sauer lube...which is MIL-Comm.

BTW, I did follow the instruction of cleaning the gun and use alcohol to wipe metal area of the gun. Heated the metal to absorb the Frog Lube.
 
#96 ·
Too much oil on anything is bad. But there are wet guns and dry guns. Wet guns, like 1911's and M4's, have a great deal of metal-on-metal contact. Between plain on friction and heat, these guns won't function reliably without ample lubrication. Dry guns, such as a glock, have minimal metal-on-metal contact, and tolerances that allow them to run with a minimum of lubrication. Over lubing a dry gun has no upside, but a downside of trapping dirt and other contaminants, which can slow or totally impede function. Most important of all- do not introduce any sort of lubricant into the firing pin channel. It doesn't take much sloppy cleaning to result in a slowed or non-functional firing pin. Lube in the FPC makes it a perfect trap for burnt powder or almost anything else.
According to most all Glock experts don't over oil I guess this is most important to much oil on a Glock kills it function??
 
#98 · (Edited)
OP - Your questions sound they are lifted from a marketing survey.

Do you work in the industry ?

If that's your intent, you could make a website survey and then link to it, I'm sure most here would be happy to take.

Then we would have results we could sort through. You could make charts with numbers and decimal places, it would be very scientific.
 
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