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What do YOU use for .40 s&w in glocks?

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by glock30_27, Jan 10, 2012.

  1. glock30_27


    Jan 7, 2012
    I just purchaced a lee deluxe reloading kit and I am wondering what the pros use as far as powder,primer, projectile...ect. I have seen 50 different products and dont know which ones to narrow it down to without a book. I know I should get a book but i know someone could help me out a little, I just want practice rounds so im not worried about the best bullet or velocity yet. I am also seeing if i can get what the oal is and how many grains of powder{not looking for a hot round}...ect.

    Any other info would help too like good websites that have what a book on reloading so i am not forced to spend 40 bucks on one that all the info is on the internet{everything is on the internet right}. Please give this noob a little bit of advice. THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!!!
  2. sicbstrd


    Aug 7, 2008
    San Diego
    i use my Lyman 49th manual for starting point in most calibers. Manuals are a wise investment, they contain all the info you seek and school you a bit on the science and magic of it all.............and they have tips on safety to help keep you alive.

  3. F106 Fan

    F106 Fan

    Oct 19, 2011
    In my view, I WANT to see the loads written down in a book. I don't trust one darn thing I read on the Internet unless it comes from a powder or bullet MANUFACTURER. I do not subscribe to "Billy Bob's Hot Loads!".

    The standard defense round is a 180 gr JHP.

    You can go to and wander over to the reloading data area. You select:
    Cartridge Loads
    Load Type - Pistol
    Cartridge - 40 S&W
    Click 'Get Data'
    Bullet Weight - 180 gr
    Click 'Get Data' again.

    I might use WSF, PB or HP-38 and Federal primers because I have WSF, PB and Federal primers. Longshot might also be a good choice. It is a slow powder and there is a large difference in charge between the starting and maximum loads and even the starting load is pretty fast. Based on the charge weights, I suspect that the case will be pretty full. If you are using a progressive press and have any chance of double charging, it will be very obvious if powder spills out.

    Others may recommend something else - I wouldn't argue. I don't load .40 S&W.

    At go to Products -> Company Store. You can order their complete reloading manual for $12 and a less comprehensive booklet for $3.

    As to the cost of books: it's part of reloading. I have a dozen or more reloading manuals and I use every one of them. No single book has everything you will need. FWIW, you really should be reading through a general presentation of how to reload. It's simple, sure. But it's not forgiving.

    Oh, and start with the "Starting Loads" and stay away from the "Maximum Loads".

  4. sellersm

    sellersm disciplinare

    May 28, 2009
    A little advice? Read the stickies in this forum. Get a couple of loading manuals, Lyman's at least. Fredj will tell you to avoid Tightgroup! :whistling:

    Then read some more...

    I like to load 180gr in .40 S&W. I like to use CCI primers. I like to use Win231 or HP-38 powders.
  5. shotgunred

    shotgunred local trouble maker

    Mar 1, 2008
    Washington (the state)
    180 gr bullets are used more than every other weight combined in 40 sw.
    Stick with a good medium burner powder. I like.....
    • WSF
    • Win 231
    • Power Pistol
    Primers what ever is cheapest in small pistol primers.
    Hot rounds are a very bad idea in the 40 and tend to blow up guns.
    As for OAL I shoot my short with my glocks at 1.125

    Here is someplace to start......

    180 grain bullets seated to the OAL of 1.135
    3.7 gr of WW231 or 4.5 gr of Power Pistol is a good starting point. These will be light loads that you will want to work up from to find out what is most accurate in your gun.
  6. Taterhead

    Taterhead Counting Beans

    Dec 13, 2008
    Boise, Idaho
    Not whata you are asking for, but advice for a noob would unequivocally be to get a manual and read it. A lot. Before getting started. I have found that the Speer #14 does a great job explaining the processes for pistol and rifle cartridges. Hornady and Lyman books are very good too. They are much more than a collection of recipes.

    This is a hobby that can last a lifetime. Manuals are one area to NOT avoid spending a bit of cash on. The recipes are easy to get to. Many of them are online from various manufacturers. Compare and cross-reference at least two (3 is even better).

    Once you have read a loading manual, searching on youtube will reveal various videos of guys showing how to reload. Take those with a grain of salt though. Having read and learned from a loading manual, you can filter out a lot of the crap that is out there.

    Have fun, and welcome to an interesting and rewarding hobby.
  7. rpgman

    rpgman SCGLOCK

    Jul 27, 2011
    ^^^^What he stated^^^^^

    There is no easy way to get into re-loading.
    Read the manuals first, especially the ABC's of Reloading, than maybe the Speer #14 or Lyman #49 and then read the stickies above, then watch some youtube vids, then ask a ton of questions on here.

    That's what I did.

    Oh, and watch Jack's vids he posted on youtube, they are very important:

    Last edited: Jan 10, 2012
  8. fredj338


    Dec 22, 2004
    I am surprised only 50 diff products. Consider the 40 in the GLock the same as any other handgun round. There are dozens of diff bullets, at least that many powders will work, lots of ways to go. Having at least 2, 3 is better, loading manauls makes the choice easier.
    If you want to shoot cheaper, use lighter bullets & faster powders, but you don't get full power ammo safely. Medium burners like WSF, Unique, Universal, PowerPisto, HS6, etc all give you factory equiv vel w/ any bullet style & wt w/ pressure safety margin.
  9. creophus

    creophus Born Again

    Mar 18, 2005
    Get a book. Your local gun store may even have them for free. You can hit up the site for good data too.
  10. MoneyMaker


    Feb 16, 2009
  11. IndyGunFreak


    Jan 26, 2001
    Advice: Get a manual or two.

    People can (and will) help you out, but would you trust advice from someone you don't know? If you would, you're a kB waiting to happen. All of us can recall posters that have posted "pet" loads that were well over any loading manual out there (there was actually an interesting thread because of this a couple weeks ago).

    Get a couple loading manuals... Lyman 49th is my favorite, then I pick up a "Loadbook" in each caliber I load. Loadbooks are simply a compilation of data from powder manufacturers, bullet manufacturers, other manuals, etc.. so they are usually full of data.. but it's still best to verify everything in them. They're also very cheap.
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2012
  12. F106 Fan

    F106 Fan

    Oct 19, 2011

    While we're back on that epic thread, here's the summary:

    1) Know where your load data is coming from and rationalize it with published materials. Ask questions!

    2) Don't load 1000 rounds without testing the load. Load 10 and give them a try. Or, load 10 at each of several charges (staying away from maximum) and give them a try.

    3) So, they go bang! Great! Now, do you know how to check for signs of overpressure? No? Buy a book! The ABCs of Reloading covers overpressure pretty well. The pictures help.

    [ame=""] The ABCs Of Reloading: The Definitive Guide for Novice to Expert (9781440213960): Rodney James: Books@@AMEPARAM@@[/ame]

    You want the latest version and ^^^ is it.

    The 40 S&W is a high pressure cartridge and less forgiving than something using a lower pressure like the .45 ACP. I would be very careful approaching max loads.

  13. F106 Fan

    F106 Fan

    Oct 19, 2011
    And I have no idea how that image got embedded ^^^ I just posted the link.

  14. glock30_27


    Jan 7, 2012
    THANK YOU for all the info yeah I kind knew I should start at the lowest powder and work up from there. And I need to load up 10 or 20 and go shoot them with some factory loads and see if they feel close. I like the idea of going with a slower burning powder so i can see if a double charge. And i would deffinatly double check what was mention. I am just getting some {right paths} to start in a direction...and i dont think there is a wrong answer cause there is always a different way to get the same result . Again thank you to all ...and if anyone knows more websites for information please let me know. p.s. i will get a book or two maybe look on craigs list.
  15. shotgunred

    shotgunred local trouble maker

    Mar 1, 2008
    Washington (the state)

    The 40 S&W is a normal pressure cartridge. But yes it can be unforgiving at the higher end. Of course I have never understood the need to push beyond published data. That can be bad for both your gun and body.
  16. F106 Fan

    F106 Fan

    Oct 19, 2011

    I guess whether the 40 S&W is 'normal' depends on your frame of reference. Certainly, all of the other cartridges have much higher pressure than the century old .45 ACP.

    The bulk of my loading is .45 ACP and I consider that the norm. Everything else is 'high pressure'. In my view... Other points of view are equally valid.

  17. Colorado4Wheel


    Nov 2, 2006
    9mm is three years older then the 45acp.
  18. kasper7106


    Dec 10, 2010
    central ohio
    I have been using 6.2gr of WSF with 165gr Xtreme TCJ with a OAL of 1.125. I have loaded around 2500 rounds using this recipe and shot form a G23 and G27 with no problems what so ever. This load seems to be on the lite side compared to some factory loadings
  19. fredj338


    Dec 22, 2004
    You can't tell anything by felt rcoil. Diff powders can offer less or more felt recoil while giving near identical vel. I shoot 6.1gr under a 165gr Ranier for about 950fps in a G32/SL bbl.
  20. WASR10


    Oct 9, 2011
    Winchester White Box, 180 or 165 gr. JHP. Cheap and reliable. :)
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2012