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Ways to refinish a gun?

Discussion in 'General Firearms Forum' started by Aceman, Apr 18, 2013.

  1. Aceman

    Aceman

    6,988
    61
    Nov 30, 2008
    Tampa
    What are all the ways I could refinish a gun? From easiest to most difficult/fancy?

    And what are the pro/cons of each? Assume both standard and camo patterns, blued steel and synth parts.
     
  2. That is a question with a million answers.

    I have done a few that turned out like glass but it take time, not hours but for me was weeks. Really doesn't take much time each coat to sand and re coat. I waited day or two in between each coat. 8- 10 coats can't remember. it is applied rubbing it on with my finger, lite even coats and stand it up when done to dry

    I used Linspeed oil NOT linseed

    Linspeed oil is a little harder to fine but work great if you have patience. Guarantee will look better than the rest when you are done.

    #0000 steel wool in between coats wipe of with damp cloth let air dry for a little while before coating

    The more coats the glassier it will look
     


  3. countrygun

    countrygun

    17,069
    17
    Mar 9, 2012
    If you carefully follow every detail closely you can get a reasonably good blue finish, at least visually, with a Belgian Hot Blue, with a minimum of special equipment. But the level of care and prep and detail is still more intense than most are willing to devote and one "shortcut" can derail the whole thing. (don't ask how I know)

    ETA: If you are talking about a wood stock I have a couple of tricks I learned over the years.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2013
  4. nathanours

    nathanours Texan

    I'm not sure exactly what you're asking about. Guns can be blued, nickel plated, hard chromed, parkerized, bead blasted or polished (stainless), duracoated, ceracoated, case hardened, ceramic coated, painted, tenifer, and probably about a hundred others I'm forgetting. By the way that is not in any order.
     
  5. Refinishing is fun and rewarding. It's can also be expensive and frustrating...and it can lower the value of a gun and in many cases you will never recover the cost of restoring a gun.

    It sounds like you're just getting started, I'd start with something simple and know that this is a proof-of-concept project. Buy a beat up, slightly rusted single shot shotgun. Start with the wood. Take it off and strip the old finish. Glue cracks and steam out the wood. Finish with Birchwood Caseys products, following instructions exactly. Now go to Numrich eBay and see what you could have bought new wood for.

    Metal has a steeper learning curve. Prep work will take many guns to master. Just 2 notes here. Your fingers have oil and oil is bad and leave nickel stripping to the pros. Once you get the old finish off, move quickly because rust sets in fast. You'll have to learn about the finishes by trial and error. Honestly I'd try Duracoat for a first effort. Your oven will stink for a while, but it's cheaper than buying a hot blue tank and more effective than hot blue's poor cousin - cold blue. After all those hours, compare to the $100-$150 that a local smith would charge to hot blue.

    And after all that you have invested, you have a $90 gun that you paid $75 for that shows some hallmarks of an amateur refinishing. Unless you really love it and/or can do a lot of it...I might look to take up reloading.
     
  6. Aceman

    Aceman

    6,988
    61
    Nov 30, 2008
    Tampa
    I'm not interested in refinishing wood. Talking about a slightly uncared for Remington 760.

    Just something in a basic flat/satin black.
     
  7. smokeross

    smokeross GTDS Member #49

    6,772
    1,388
    May 15, 2011
    Alaska
    Krylon it and replace the wood with Ram Line synthetic. It will look like a new gun. Ask me how I know.
     
  8. Aceman

    Aceman

    6,988
    61
    Nov 30, 2008
    Tampa
    How well does the Krylon hold up?

    How do you know?

    Any pics?
     
  9. RonS

    RonS Millennium Member

    12,833
    2,586
    May 27, 1999
    Oh, USA
    If I were doing it I would use Brownells Oxpho Blue. Oxpho Blue is a phosphate finish that looks like bluing but is tougher and to my eyes looks blacker. Take grey 3M auto body sandpaper and remove the old finish and scratches. Arrange your work so that with your last grit (400-600) you polish everything longways. I assume you know to cross each grit pattern at an angle to the last one, 45 degrees works well to remove all traces of the coarser grit. Wood dowels make it easier to polish inside trigger guards, up to edges etc, a flat piece of steel wrapped in sand paper helps keep frame flats flat. Don't polish out the markings, it is better to have pits than no markings. Oxpho Blue comes with instructions but in a nutshell you apply it and then rub it out with steel wool. You keep going over it till you get the color you want.

    You can also just run it over the old finish to blacken the gun and provide some rust protection, the instructions explain that too.

    If there are aluminum parts you can have them reanodized, plated or paint them. Synthetic stock I would just use one of the kits from Midway, not my area of expertise.

    If the gun is truly abused and a beater then probably one of the bake on paint finishes might be your best bet. Never used one so can't help you there. I assume that the more you work at them the better results you will get, like anything else.
     
  10. There are as many ways to refinish a gun as there are terms when you do a search. The proper subforum, like gunsmithing would help to get better results for a search.

    This is a topic that is recurring very often and personal opinions are repeated.