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Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by 3/4Flap, Feb 19, 2012.
there is a picture on the first or second page that shows the shoulder.
you mean page #1 post #23 picture #1, which is commonly refered in this thread as "the step", right?
thanks bentbiker, perfect service, as always *thumbs up*
that was exactly the part i was thinking about, but it is always refered to as "the step" in this board not as " the shoulder", right?
today was my 3rd hour long session with my gen4 g19 and i shot 405 rounds of speer lawman 124gr. today was the first time with the glock .40sw extractor, and not a single erratic ejection throughout the entire hour. the previous 1st and 2nd hour long sessions with the g19 oem extractor caused erratic ejections about half hour into each session, but today it was all flawless. thanks to voyager4520 for mentioning the .40 extractor in several previous threads, otherwise i probably would've never picked up on it.
if the polishing doesn't work for you as it didn't for me, try the .40 extractor.
Are ya sure!
(Remember, we're not talking about a properly working extractor; nor are we talking about an extractor that is in motion.)
If the shoulder was out of spec, and somehow contacting anything with a round under extractor, then the LCI would not fit flush with the slide on an empty chamber, and would protrude away from the face of the slide.
If you remove material at that point, then it will also not fit flush, but now in the negative, and would be to far inboard towards the breech face, and possibly interfering with the rounds coming up from the mag.
As far as it being in motion, from hand cycling a bunch of live rounds in a number of my Glocks, the extractors LCI still protrudes from the face of the slide all the way to ejection, and never drops to flush with a round under it. If it sits flush when empty, how can it be contacting anything if the case holds it away while there?
My 19 had a dip extractor and crazy ejection. I replaced the extractor with a non-dip and my ejection got worse.
I then polished the non-dip and it even got more crazy.
I then polished the dip that came in the 19 and the ejection was even worse than it was to start with before I did anything.
All polishing was only done on the top and bottom of the extractor.
Nothing was done on the stem or step.
"Fixing" your gun, by installing an extractor made for the next larger caliber, just doesn't seen too smart, to me.
If you are having ammo feeding problems, just use the next larger sized magazine? I'm sure that I have misunderstood something, there. The whole thing is sorta abstract, I reckon.
I'm not disagreeing with this. You are talking about a gross adjustment; I am talking about a refined one. (Which is, I believe, the gist of Dave Nowlin's solution.)
I believe that using a .40 extractor in a 9mm slide fixes the erratic ejection problem in most cases for two reasons:
1. The .40 claw holds the rim of the casing closer to the breech face. The cause of this whole erratic ejection problem seems to be that for one reason or another, the rim of the spent casing is not held firmly enough to the breech face by the extractor claw.
2. The .40 claw has a 5 degree rearward tilt, which acts to raise the case mouth of the spent casing higher during ejection. One symptom of the erratic ejection problem is that the case mouth is impacting the slide just below the ejection port opening, if the case mouth is raised higher, this part of the problem is eliminated. The new Gen4 ejectors in effect do the same thing, they have a rearward tilt to the face of the ejector which acts to raise the case mouth of the spent casing higher during ejection so that it better clears the slide just below the ejection port opening.
I guess I still dont get at what youre getting at then. It seems to me, since the case keeps that part of the extractor off the slide, what good does removing any material do?
If that shoulder doesnt contact anything, how can the tension on the case be any different?
You should tell Glock.
BTW, what is the claw rearward tilt, for a 9mm extractor?
I agree with ak103k, in fact I brought this up on several posts way back in the history of this thread.
0 degrees, it's a parallel claw for 9mm.
Here's a post with a picture that shows a 9mm extractor on top, and a .40 extractor on bottom:
(click the picture itself to see a bigger picture)
The 9mm/.380 extractor is the only one which has a parallel claw. All other calibers use a 5 degree claw. Older 10mm extractors used a parallel claw, but Glock later changed 10mm extractors to a 5 degree claw.
so to have a kind of modus procedendi, which steps in which order would you suggest if some encounters eratic ejection? let' s say ( to make it a common example) the gun is glock gen. 3 G17 9mm that has eratic ejection:
change "336" ejector to "30274"
if that won't cure the prob
change extractor ans SLB to another 9mm extrator
if that won't cure the prob
change ejector on the 9mm gun to a .40S&W ejector
if that won't cure the prob
change extractor on the 9mm gun to a .40S&W extractor plus .40S&W SLB
which steps and parts would you suggest to go and use as a how-to fix-the-prob-list beginning with the easiest way.
My personal suggestion would be for 9mm owners:
1. Change to 30274 ejector, if you still experience erratic ejection, keep that ejector in the gun and replace the extractor.
2. You could also try a .40 LCI extractor, no need to change the spring loaded bearing as long as your 9mm extractor was also of the LCI type.
For .40/.357 owners:
1. Change to 28926 ejector, if you still experience erratic ejection, keep that ejector in the gun and replace the extractor.
so if i got you right, the SLBs for 9mm and .40 LCI extractors are the same
the SLBs for 9mm and .40 NON-LCI extractors are the same, right?
in step 1, after chaning the ejector, do you mean to try another 9mm extractor plus new SLB or the old SLB with just a new 9mm extractor?
They're not the same. But most people who've used a .40 extractor in a 9mm Glock have not changed the SLB to a .40 SLB, and it worked fine for them. You could change to the same caliber SLB if you want to, but it's not necessary.
There's no need to replace the SLB with a new one, just replace the extractor with a new one.