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Tulammo is very dirty!

Discussion in 'Caliber Corner' started by collim1, Nov 7, 2011.


  1. collim1

    collim1
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    Shower Time!

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    I finally broke down and tried it as it is almost $7 per 50box cheaper than Rem UMC or WWB in .45acp. I have been shooting .22LR almost exclusively because of the cost of centerfire ammo (plus my sp101 .22 is just so darn fun) but I was neglecting practice with my SD guns.

    It cycled the weapon with 100% reliability, so no complaint there at all. My P220 has been able to function any ammo I have tried. It has been extremely reliable. However, the amount of crud in the barrel, chamber, breech face, and extractor is unbelievable! I am actually quite impressed that the gun still functioned while that fouled up inside. And YES it is a USA made Sig.

    Usually I run a wet patch soaked in Hoppe's no9 and let it sit while I clean the rest of the gun, maybe 20mins. A couple more wet patches followed by a few dry patches and I am done.

    Today I had to soak the barrel for 20mins, scrub barrel with phosphor bronze brush, soak again, scrub with brush again, and repeat the process about 5 more times to get the junk out of the barrel.

    I was just surprised to be honest. I had NO DOUBT that the steel case ammo was safe to shoot in my Sig P220. I was not worried about it at all. I would reckon a guess that 70%+ of the world's armies use steel cased ammo. I am not starting this thread to argue the pros/cons of steel ammo. I am comfortable shooting it in even my expensive guns like my P220.

    I am curious as to why this ammo is just so darn filthy. Any ammo experts know what it is that causes the extra stubborn fouling?

    I will buy it again, but next time I will just soak the barrel in a bowl of Hoppes for about an hour before I start cleaning it.
     

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  2. Jeremy_K

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    My guess is just a cheap grade of powder. I fired some Wolf steel through my Stag AR with no hiccups but it was very dirty. I shot the TulAmmo in my S&W Bodyguard 380 and it was very dirty with hard primers. It's the only ammo I've found to malfunction in that gun. 1 out of every 7 shots needed a second strike. Good plinking ammo.
     

    #2 Jeremy_K, Nov 7, 2011
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2011
  3. mj9mm

    mj9mm
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    I've used 9mm and 45acp, more than a thousand rounds, and i have'nt found that to be the case.:wavey:
     
  4. hotpig

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    I purchased 1000 rounds of it it 223 and it is dirty. Just to be safe I cleaned my RRA AR15 after the first 500 rounds. I have about 100 rounds left of the case so I will be cleaning it again soon.

    I purchased 1000 rounds in 9mm just because it was cheap. I put 200 rounds in my new Kahr CW9 plus 150 rounds of RA9T just to break it in then cleaned it. I cleaned real easy. I have put another 200 rounds through it so I'm willing to see how far it can go before needing to be cleaned again. I have a 500 round case here of 45 that I will use to break in a 1911 as soon as i have the time.
     
  5. Brucev

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    I have fired about 500 rounds of the Tula .40 S&W in a G-2RTF. Cleaning was not an issue. Did not notice any particular difficulty with fouling, powder residue, etc. Function and accuracy was identical to any other 180 gr. FMJ loads. I have fired at least 700 rounds of the Tula .45ACP in a S&W 625-2. In every way the Tula ammo has been identical to WWB in function, accuracy, etc. Extraction has been without problems. I have fired I have not idea how much of the Tula in my COLT Hbar. Function and on target accuracy has been no different than when I've been firing ball ammo from Winchester, Federal. In firing rifle ammunition I typically practice for club matches where 10 rds. in 60 sec. is the fastest one has to fire. Perhaps if one were firing longer strings of fire at a greater rate of fire there might be problems. I can only say that in my experience the Tula ammo has been very good.
     
    #5 Brucev, Nov 7, 2011
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2011
  6. Edmo01

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    I tried some of their new in the box 150 grain Tulammo 308 ammo in my Springfield M1A and about every 4th round would not fire! Good primer strikes, but no boom.

    Edmo
     
  7. 9mm +p+

    9mm +p+
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    I've run alot of 9 through my 19 and haven't seen it to be any dirtier than anything else?
     
  8. fredj338

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    I tried a box each of 9mm & 45 when Wolf first hit the market. It works, it is dirty, but I am just not all that fond of the steel case thing. Old guys have old habits.
     
    #8 fredj338, Nov 8, 2011
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2011
  9. Dogguy

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    I also beg to differ as well.

    I tried .45 ACP Tula in my SIG P220 and Ruger P345 for the first time recently and didn't find it to be very dirty at all. The guns didn't seem to me to require any more scrubbing than when I've used any other brand of range ammo. The Tula worked as well as other brands of ammo as well. I'll buy it again, especially the .45 stuff.

    I'm not sure why you see so many complaints concerning "dirty" ammunition these days. Shooting ammo creates combustion residue as a fact of life. Some ammo more so than others, for sure, but the gun is "dirty" after shooting a quantity of any of it.
     
  10. collim1

    collim1
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    I'll buy it again also, I was just surprised that only 100rds of ammo caused some really stubborn fouling. But, with the price of ammo these days I will shoot whatever is cheapest.

    I guess I was curious if anyone recommends something other than Hoppes no9 for really stubborn fouling?

    I am also going to try Monarch steel. Academy is selling it for $7.99/50box of 9mm.
     
  11. Trigger Finger

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    Thats odd. I have shot Tulammo in 9mm, 45ACP, 40 cal and 223 and found it to be dirtier than most other brands of cheap economy ammo but nothing like you state. Cleaning is the same, to me, as with any other brand. A little more dirt but easily cleaned. I always keep about 500 rounds each of the four calibers I mentioned.

    I always use "Gunzilla" gun oil to clean all of my guns!
     
    #11 Trigger Finger, Nov 10, 2011
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2011
  12. Knighj1

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    I think the problem is OVER LUBING, if you over lube the sig, and all the dirt sticks to the lube and there is your problem. 2 ways to fix this, 1) buy a glock 2) dont use so much damn lube
     
  13. txgunguy

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    In my experience it is very dirty.

    Shot 150 rounds of blazer brass through my 27 yesterday. Cleanup took less than 20 minutes. Some of the cleanest ammo. Seems to be inconsistent on velocity though.
     
  14. beforeobamabans

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    It is dirty and of course it's the powder. Just watch the huge clouds of smoke coming out of every gun shooting it. Heck, you can tell just by loading a magazine from all the powder all over your hands. Plus, dirty steel cases are "grabby" compared to brass or nickel. I tried it in .45acp and just hated it. Even the outside of my pistol was covered in soot. I'll gladly pay the small premium for brass cased, and reusable, quality ammo.
     
    #14 beforeobamabans, Dec 10, 2011
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2011
  15. tcruse

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    Some observations:
    The level of "dirty" is very subjective and relates to the gun (barrel length and design), power type and lube (both gun and ammo). When reading reviews on ammo you get both extremes for almost every ammo brand. I have found Tula ammo about average in residue left on the gun. Steel case may have some degree of influence in that the expansion of the case during the firing process may let more (or less) blow back into the gun. The coating on the ammo does influence the end result.
    As a side note for me Federal Champion is far worse. Ruag precision (steel zinc plated Russian) is the cleanest of any ammo, us or imported. Herters/brazier TNJ is also exceptionally clean.

    Does anyone know a source for a non-Subjective comparison of popular range ammo?
     
  16. cheapshot

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    Same experience here.
     
  17. FLIPPER 348

    FLIPPER 348
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    I don't find it to be any 'dirtier' than WWB in my 1911s.
     
  18. arushus

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    In my experience it has been dirtier than wwb also when shooting .40sw through my converted 20sf....but, it isnt any more difficult to clean out, the patches just come out darker is all...Do you run an oiled patch through your barrel after you clean it? This really seems to help in my experience, nothing sticks real bad to the barrel because of the thin film of oil that was there before I shot it. If it is still hard to clean after trying this, perhaps you should try running an oiled patch through the barrel just before you shoot it...

    What knighj1 says is true regarding dirt sticking to lubed areas, and I agree, pretty much everywhere else on your gun should be bone dry, except areas that require oil obviously...but the exception for me, is inside the barrel. If i were you, and kept having trouble with burnt powder sticking to the inside of the barrel, I would run a patch slightly more drenched in oil than the last time, to a point....I just feel like if the inside of the barrel has a good layer of oil on the inside of it, dirt will stick yes, but it should come right off...
     
    #18 arushus, Dec 11, 2011
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2011
  19. beforeobamabans

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    I was very happy to purchase 1000 Remington 180gr UMC with reloadable, nickel coated brass cases this week for $250/1000. The Ruskies can bite my arse.
     
    #19 beforeobamabans, Dec 17, 2011
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2011
  20. collim1

    collim1
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    Shower Time!

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    do tell...please!