Trigger Pull

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by OneAverageWhiteGuy, Apr 20, 2013.


  1. On my G19 I can feel three distinct "stages" while pulling the trigger. The first takes up most of the slack in the trigger pull and has light tension. The second begins when the tension noticeably increases and is very short compared to the first. Finally it reaches the point where any additional pressure releases the firing pin.

    My question is this: When practicing, do you go through the full motion (all of the "stages") of the trigger on the first pull, or do you take up that initial slack and hold it while you aim in on your target?

    I usually do the latter, but I'm beginning to think the pressure I exert while holding the trigger in that position is causing me to add movement making some of my shots to go off target, so I'm curious what everyone else does.
     

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    #1 OneAverageWhiteGuy, Apr 20, 2013
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2013
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  3. I generally aim and do the full pull on the first shot, then shoot from reset on followup shots.

    Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
     

  4. The Glock utilizes a two stage trigger. For aimed range target work, I position to the second stage and then press increasingly to the break. For drills on the range, such as draw and fire and flipping targets, I pull through both stages except for multiple shots where I just ease up to reset and then pull through the second stage.
     
  5. PEC-Memphis

    PEC-Memphis Scottish Member

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    Take up slack while extending to the target, by the time the sights are on target all of the slack is taken up, ie prepping the trigger. Follow up shots are from reset.
     
    #4 PEC-Memphis, Apr 21, 2013
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2013
  6. OldSchool64

    Platinum Member

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    You need to get some snap-caps for practice, focus on the sights instead of the target when doing this. You can (of coarse) dry fire a Glock, just not to any great extent. (opinions vary)

    Here's a good thread to read for training at home.
    http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1473853&highlight=snap+caps
     
    #5 OldSchool64, Apr 21, 2013
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2013
  7. PEC-Memphis

    PEC-Memphis Scottish Member

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    <<< This one has been dry fired probably 10,000 times with about another 10,000 rounds of live fire. IDPA SSP competition gun for about 4-5 years.

    No problems what so ever. Stock except for sights and grip tape on left side of grip. That's about a .18-.19 split, 0 down, in the picture.

    Eta: oops, forgot about the 13# recoil spring.
     
    #6 PEC-Memphis, Apr 21, 2013
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2013
  8. I do this as well. In other words, treat it like a SA trigger with a long take-up. To enhance this feeling, I use the stock connector (essential for a crisp break) together with a lightened safety block spring and an extra power trigger spring. The net effect is that the "break" is about the same, but the first stage pull (take-up) is noticeably lighter. It adds a bit of control -- makes it easier to take up the first stage without accidentally pulling all the way through.
     
  9. PEC-Memphis

    PEC-Memphis Scottish Member

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    I should add, finger is NOT inside the trigger guard until the muzzle is pointed completely down range, ie rotated to level position, and (arms) nearly fully extended. Don't shoot yourself trying to prep the trigger too soon. I know some one who has a SIGSW trying to get their finger on the trigger too soon.
     
    #8 PEC-Memphis, Apr 21, 2013
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2013
  10. Arc Angel

    Arc Angel Deus Vult!

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    There are no, 'three distinct stages' to a Glock trigger. There's only the initial front end, 'slack' or, 'take up' and the actual trigger break, itself.

    You're having a problem because you're, 'squeezing' the trigger rather than simply, 'pressing it through'. The process is simple: You (1) take up the front end slack, (2) pause and verify your front sight picture, and (3) 'press through' the shot.

    As far as, 'When' to put your trigger finger inside the trigger guard? On a fast draw my own trigger finger begins to enter the guard just as the muzzle passes the, 'low ready' position. (Never before!) By the time the muzzle is level, the front end slack is already out of the trigger; and I'm ready to fire as the front sight comes to bare.

    A Glock isn't a target pistol. Don't squeeze the trigger. 'Press it', instead. The trick is to maintain a consistent grip on the pistol and maintain constant control over the backstrap. If you control a pistol's backstrap then you control the entire pistol, too.
     
  11. Practicing a slow trigger sqeeze, you tend hesitate and jumped the shot, nice steady trigger sqeeze from start to finish keeping the same point of aim will do it for you... Garentee. :D

    Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2
     
    #11 cmr287, Apr 21, 2013
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2013
  12. well said...NOT! WTF are you trying to say? :rollingeyes:
     
  13.  
  14. Quote:
    Originally Posted by cmr287 [​IMG]
    if you're practicing in your feeling the trigger on a slope or you tend hesitate and jumped the shot . nice steady triggers Queens from start to finish keeping the same point of aim will do it for you... Garentee. :D

    Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2


    well said...NOT! WTF are you trying to say? :rollingeyes:

    Sorry, my post came out not the way It was suposed to.. I was using the speak to txt thing and I have stopped because of the way my post came out...

    What I was trying to say was there is a slow fire grouping technique, Slowlt depressing the trigger and concentrating on your shot and feeling your trigger. You should NOT feel 3 stages... A Glock and only two,
    1) Take up
    2) the break before the shot. You may need to have something done to your glock of you feel 3 stages. Like Completely disassemble it and clean or possibly have the trigger replaced.

    dbarn is absolutely correct.
     
  15. Arc Angel

    Arc Angel Deus Vult!

    6,920
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    You have every right to disagree. :)

    My suggestion, however, is to not make more out of the firing sequence than it really needs to be. Everything you say about the new Gen4 triggers is true; but, I simply tend to think of these triggers as, 'heavier'. That, 'resistance' you talk about is the actual, 'break' itself.

    The difference between your shooting style, and my own is that you're focusing on the trigger: take-up, break, and reset. I simply shoot right through it. I bring the trigger back to the break; and, if everything looks and feels good, I, 'press' through it, and allow my trigger finger to, 'bounce' forward. There's no: long take-up, no heavy resistance, and no long reset. (To quote my son: 'It is what it is!')

    In my experience, you can't shoot really well and, still, think about all that extraneous stuff. The last time I fired a pistol and began calling things like this out in my mind I was shooting an S&W Sigma. The trigger on that Sigma was an abomination! When I went back to my G-19, it felt and handled as if it were one of my precision 1911's.

    THAT is how to shoot! It's all one complete, smoothly progressing process. If you're using a pistol that causes your mind to distinctly differentiate between the different stages of its trigger pull then, as far as I'm concerned, you're either doing things all wrong or, maybe, you're using the wrong gun. ;)
     
  16. If you are feeling three stages, the middle stage might be the firing pin safety being pushed up. In some cases the hump on the trigger bar does not align well enough with the FP safety and tends to slide round the chamfered edge rather than riding up it and over the flat "top" (it is really the bottom). This produced a lot of extra friction.

    English
     
  17. I shoot from reset on everything but the fastest splits. On a close open target, I slap the trigger.
     

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