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Discussion in 'Rimfire Forum' started by CC Glock, Mar 21, 2010.
Anyone know how to do a 25 cent trigger job on a 10/22?
Wanna kill these ads? We can help!
Not trying to be a smart arse, but forget a "25 cent" trigger job. Order this and be done with it. By far the best mod for a 10/22. Good luck
+1 on what GSSF17 said.
The only thing I would do differently is to also get the Volquartsen Target Sear too. When you purchase these two parts together they come mated and the resulting trigger pull is approximately 2.5lbs.
This is money well spent!
Yeah yeah i know but i just paid more for a barrel then i did for the gun originally. Im looking for something i can do myself until i get the money for something else.
In all honesty polishing the hammer and sear will "smooth out" the feel of the trigger but it won't do much to reduce the weight.
If you have a $250 barrel, then 33 bucks for a hammer kit is a small drop in the bucket. Anything else will just cost you time and frustration, and prove to be a sincere disappointment in your desire for a lighter, crisper trigger.
Do what you want, man. I'm just telling you what will WORK.
Exactly... the only way to do a .25 trigger job on a 10-22 is to add about $69.75 to your .25...
This is the one I used, if you go the hammer - sear route get the adjustable sear, much nicer trigger pull, it allows you to take out almost all the pre travel. My only compliant on this kit is the instructions leave a bit to the imagination. If you're familiar with taking a 10-22 trigger group apart then it's no problem. If you're not familiar with it there are lots of sites online with instructions. I used ruger 10 22 help if I remember correctly. I've done it so many times now it's not a problem. I've even taken it apart several times at the range to do a sear adjustment.
Well i deff can't put another 70 dollars into this project right now so ill just stick with keeping the trigger housing clean and free of crud.
Thinks for the info guys.
PM sent with some info.
I posted instructions on a do it yourself trigger job for a 10/22 a while back.
Here you go:
They are so problematic, you will find dozens of tweaks and typically get the same thread at RFC linked. There are a number of things you can do:
This is in the threads at the link above.
There is a way to lighten the trigger pull that involves honing the slot in the hammer where the sear (?) seats. Basically, you change the angle of the slot and it makes the sear and hammer break free easier. I am not sure where that process is found, but you can find it at RFC. Do too much and I expect it goes full auto. It was a little too involved for me, so I bought a Volquartsen.
After all the BS I went through to get mine working, it still sucks.
lighten the trigger return spring!
I haven't tried this, but there's lots of positive comment on this cheap method on RFC:
When I bought a 10/22 last year, I did the trigger job on rimfire central. I loved it! However, the factory trigger was AWFUL! Creepy and at least 6-8 lbs. I could not ask my 7 year old to struggle with that crappy trigger. I have some mechanical knowledge, and figured that a 200 dollar gun was better to try my gunsmithing on than a thousand dollar 1911. so I went for it! I had a couple of times that I thought i might not get it back together (watch the safety) but with a home polisher, some jeweler's rouge, and tripoli, she's quite aceptable now. Not a Volq, but MUCH better than original! Just be careful, as I at one time had it able to fire when I released the safety! Had polished too much sear, I think. Mentioned it on the forum, and hammered the sear a bit, and no more problems. I say go for it!
$.25 trigger job on anything? No problem, just have about $40 worth of stones, a vise, a good idea of the mode of function for whatever firearm you're working with, and the $$$ to buy parts if you screw up. Oh, and don't forget the potential liability with NFA rules just in case you mess up a little.
I usually work 10/22 trigger groups for $50; I use almost all factory parts (I just clean them up and adjust the angles to where they feel right) and usually have triggers that break anywhere from right at 2lbs to a clean break with heavier pulls (folks like that on their LTRs for Appleseed, as I've yet to see a rack-grade military firearm that had a great match trigger). I also fix the bolt release, clean up edges and internals, and install a trigger stop. I generally like a little takeup on my triggers, but can remove almost all the slack, if so desired.
2 best areas to NOT scrimp on firearms: Optics and Triggers.