Privacy guaranteed - Your email is not shared with anyone.

Welcome to Glock Forum at

Why should YOU join our forums?

  • Reason #1
  • Reason #2
  • Reason #3

Site Description

Trigger help for a G36

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by HOGUEMEISTER, Nov 28, 2010.


    HOGUEMEISTER Senior Member

    Oct 12, 2005
    Canton, Georgia
    I have an factory G36 and I would like to adjust/replace the trigger assembly so their isn't so much play and I don't have to pull it so far back to fire the weapon. Is their a way to make the trigger more user-friendly? Thanks.

    Hoguemeister :beer:
  2. 1006


    Aug 12, 2007
    Newnan, Georgia
    As a carry gun, there isn't much you can do that is really worth while( my opinion).

    Just practice with it.

  3. SilentScream80

    SilentScream80 Remember

    Jan 1, 2008
    Reno Nevada
    There's not much you can do about it, the long trigger pull is what makes the gun fire.
    The gun needs that long pull back to bring the striker back far enough to get up enough inertia to fire the cartridge.
  4. This is what I did to my two new guns. The Ghost Ranger 4.5# connector for the G36 is a very quick fix, but I would suggest the 25-cent trigger job along with it, primarily polishing of metal parts that rub on each other. Don't round any corners, however. This has worked for me very well. The trigger length of pull is the same as before, but the trigger-action is now very, very satisfactory. Good luck to you. I'll help you further with info if you need.

    Senior Member

    Join Date: Mar 2008
    Location: Central Florida
    Posts: 794 I use both my G19 and my G36 for concealed-carry, so chose to do "heavier" connectors. Having done both of these, they are smooth and I am happy. Note that the stock G36 trigger on my gun would not even register on my 8-lb trigger gauge when brand new, and the G19 trigger was inconsistent and around 7.5# when new. So YES, these new Ghost connectors are heavier than the 3.5# connectors that some folks like, but much lighter and smoother than the stock Glock triggers. For carry purposes, I like a heavier trigger, such as I installed, but there are many differing opinions on this subject, a few opinions which concern themselves with "too light" trigger pull and liability issues. Your choice.

    Bought two Ghost units. Both were well-packaged, shipped immediately, and nicely polished.
    Put the Ranger 4.5# unit into my G36, along with Wolff 6# trigger spring and also Wolff 6# Extra-Power striker spring, reco'd for .45Auto and 10mm, by Ghost, due to striker being 9% heavier than in other calibers like 9's and .40's. I also polished the trigger bar as per Glock Reference Manual. The $0.25 trigger job, found all over the web, is basically the same info on polishing metal parts which rub against each other. Good info, a "must-do" if you want a good result.
    The Ranger is a drop-in unit and trigger-pull is now 5 1/4# and consistent.

    In my G19, I installed the 5# Tactical along with Wolff 6# trigger spring. The result is a smooth 5-5 1/8# pull. This connector has a Trigger Control Tab that must be ground down and then polished once you get a good consistent pull and let-off. Once I ground it down where it would fire each time, it was still "iffy" and so I took off another 0.016" with another polish for "insurance." Again, as per Arthur Viani's (Ghost) instructions.
    I have just recently installed, and polished, a G17 SMOOTH trigger with trigger bar into the G19. It is an instant fit; no gunsmithing required. I prefer the smooth to the grooved trigger.
    Note that you'd be well-advised to buy the ORANGE slide back-plate. It is cut to allow you to use the GlockTool to push down on the triggerbar in those early cases when the gun won't fire and the slide won't come off. This ORANGE backplate will save your sanity and make the job easy and fun.
    I ended up removing a total of 0.071" in a series of 6 or 7 grindings/polishings.
    Also note that you only need to pull the Trigger Housing Pin at the rear of the gun in order to remove/reinstall the connector. Of course, if you're going to polish the trigger bar, then you must remove all three pins.
    I highly recommend the Glock Reference Manual. Available from Brownells and others; a valuable source of info, about 250pp. There is also a short YouTube video: Glock Connector Swap @ link:

    I like both guns and, of course, the Ranger unit is a drop-in, so you can do that in five minutes by removing only the trigger housing pin, at the rear of the gun. And the Tactical requires some grinding and polishing of the Trigger Control Tab, whick removes the overtravel of the trigger. I'm not sure whether the lack of overtravel has affected my accuracy in any manner. Both guns (new OD's) are exceptionally accurate.
    I carry the G36 the most, but primarily due to the caliber and it's slightly smaller than the G19 so easier to carry and conceal. The .45 ACP recoil is quite nice and not at all sharp and snappy like the .40 S&W cartridge. I shoot both the G36 and the G19 guns equally well at targets.