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Technique for holding/shooting a mouse gun

Discussion in 'General Firearms Forum' started by CDR_Glock, Feb 13, 2012.


  1. CDR_Glock

    CDR_Glock
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    Background: I have a Diamondback DB9. I keep reading from people who don't have problems with it saying it is all the shooter's fault. I have found that the ammo used and the magazine design to be its issue. However, I do want to investigate the other side. Hence my question.

    I keep reading about how a Semi-auto Mouse Gun needs to be held and shot a certain way. I know a lot of these are prone to limpwristing. That's something I don't do, anyways.

    Anyone have experience/expertise with how they shoot them? How they grip a mouse gun? Pictures? Video?


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  2. 4 glocks

    4 glocks
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    All you need is a firm grip that's about it. If you are having problems with your DB it's most likely the gun. I have never had one but they get bad reviews. Good luck. I have had great luck with the Ruger LCP and G26.
     

  3. failsafe

    failsafe
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    Limp Wristing, shooting a mouse gun..

    * *Revolvers, because they reload the chamber mechanically, will never have this problem. SOMETHING must hold the bottom of an automatic pistol still so that the top half can move all the way back and all the way forward again. (Ideally, the grip would be bolted to a solid steel arm.)

    * *The slide needs all of its speed and energy to properly load the next round into the chamber. If anything slows *down the slide, then that lost energy doesn't leave enough oomph to properly strip and chamber the round.

    * Most pistols rely on inertia to cycle the slide. With a fairly heavy pistol, the mass of the gun provides a holding point to allow the slide to cycle fully. The majority of pistols are in this category and the shooter's wrist can flex quite a bit without problems because the gun is heavier.

    * *In a very light gun like the P3AT (And even the PF9) though, there is NOT enough mass to assure full slide function. In THIS case mostly the stiffnes of the WRIST provides the hold for the slide to work against.

    * The BOTTOM half of the light pistol must hold firm and not dissipate the slide energy, or else the slide will not travel properly. Because this can happen to variable degree, it can cause almost ANY type of malfunction short of failure to fire. In fact, one of the surest signs of LW is multiple types of malfunction during the same shooting session.

    * In Limp Wristing, the wrist flexes up and down at the joint. This bleeds off the slide momentum. The proper form is a locked, non flexing wrist, with the whole arm rising and falling from the elbow with the recoil.

    * Even good form can deteriorate as muscles tire during long shooting sessions. * * Everything is a trade off. You gain light weight and super concealability but you lose the old carefree times of not worrying about whether your wrist is locked or not.

    * Chances are, If you have only ever been shooting heavier pistols, it has never been necessary for you to develop the critical shooting form needed for super-light pistols. Also, you may have to strengthen your wrist. These ultra-light guns require special training and technique:

    TWO HANDED:

    1. Place strong hand on grip with finger alongside trigger guard. *
    2. Cup weak hand as if you were going to drink water from it. *
    3. Rotate weak hand 45 degrees toward your body. *
    4. Place palm against front of strong hand fingers, with thumbs nearly parallel. *
    5. Line up on target and push forward with strong hand while pulling back with weak hand.
    *
    * This will lock your wrist and prevent limp wristing.

    * IF YOU HAVE MALFUNCTIONS WHILE FIRMLY USING THIS GRIP--THEN IT'S THE GUN.

    SINGLE HAND GRIP: *
    *
    1. Line up on target. *
    2. strain hand forward as if you were trying to get the gun closer to the target. This will lock your wrist if you do it right.
     
  4. M2 Carbine

    M2 Carbine
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    "All you need is a firm grip that's about it."

    +1
     
  5. ronin.45

    ronin.45
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    Firm grip and a quality gun is all I've ever needed. No problems with many Kahrs, Kel-tecs, g26s.
     
  6. CDR_Glock

    CDR_Glock
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    It's the gun.


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  7. Bob Hafler

    Bob Hafler
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    True sometimes it does take a little getting used to fireing the smaller guns, but in the case of the DB it's probably the gun.
     
  8. deguelo

    deguelo
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    cdr-- my technique for shooting my seecamp 380? have some alleve ready when i get done......

    seriously, as others have already stated, a firm grip is essential, as is acquiring a high a grip on the gun. this puts as much of your hand on that little grip as possible.

    the only other technique that i have found helpful to me and other shooters is to cant the gun slightly toward the center, maybe 30 degrees. this puts your wrist in an anatomically stronger position than when the gun is held straight up (90 degrees). it creates a different perspective for aiming purposes, but at the short distances at which small autos are used, the hits will come.

    don't cant it too far, though, or you'll lose the benefit of positional strength..... and you may be accused of watching too many gangsta movies.......

    hope this helps. regards-- deguelo
     
  9. Caver 60

    Caver 60
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    I personally think having small hands help. I own and shoot two PM Kahrs and a steel MK Kahr. I also own and shoot two P3AT's. All run 100% for me. I must admit I've never tried a Diamondback. Also I've usually had to do some amount of work on several of them to get them running 100%. Especially that first generation P3AT.

    I've tried to one handed limp wrist them every way I can think of, but they just keep shooting. I've shot them gangster style, upside down, right side up holding them only with my thumb and middle finger and pulling the trigger with my normal trigger finger. I've tried to relax my wrist as much as possible and still hold onto the pistol when it shoots. They just keep shooting.

    Normally I do get a good grip on the pistol. With my small hands I can curl the pinky tightly under the magazine base plate and get a good two finger grip on the front of the pistol. If the range is much longer than a few yards I use a two handed grip.

    I'll relate a dealers opinion. A few years ago I was passing through a town and noticed a pretty large gun shop. I had some time to kill, so I stopped in to admire the merchandise. Business was a little slow that day, so the dealer and I fell into conversation as I looked at several handguns he had on display.

    I was looking at some micro pistols and I commented about how I had never had problems with 'limp wristing' and my micros ran 100%, but lots of internet posts that I saw complained about limp wristing. He came back with 'It's because you have small hands.' I looked at his hands and they were the proverbial meathooks.

    He told me he actively discourages sales of mouse guns to people with very large hands, because he gets so many returned with complaints about malfunctions.

    Now I know some people with large hands can manage to make a mouse gun run OK. But what he said sounds to me like the voice of experience.
     
  10. janice6

    janice6
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    A number of years with 'Hammer and Dolly" worked for me.


    I have never experienced a problem.
     
  11. Taphius

    Taphius
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    deadlifts and upright barbell rows.
     
  12. ithaca_deerslayer

    ithaca_deerslayer
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    I've tried to limp wrist my j-frame, but just can't get it to jam :rofl:
     
  13. Berto

    Berto
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    woo woo

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  14. vafish

    vafish
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    I didn't think people actually shot mouse guns. I thought they just carried them in their picket because it was easy.

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  15. thisaway

    thisaway
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    :rofl:...I didn't see the entire title of this thread at first...I thought it read "Technique for Holding/Shooting a Mouse"...

    ...I now have this absurd mental image of a guy holding a 1911 pointed at a mouse held in his other hand...

    :embarassed:
     
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