Surface rust

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by Glock 1, Aug 18, 2013.

  1. A few months ago I became the owner once again of my very first shotgun. A Stevens model 311 H. The gun is in good shape but the previous owner allowed the barrel to develop a few surface rust spots. I am able to rub most of it off with a microfiber towel and gun cleaner but it is bare metal underneath. I do not want to re-blue the whole gun or coat it in anything like cerakote. I want to stop the rust and retain the original finish since its very small spots. The biggest one is about 4mm in diameter and there is only one of those. There are 3 others that about a millimeter in diameter.

    My first though is a copper chore boy to remove the rust and a "blueing pen" to spot blue it. My worry is that the result in a poor fix. Again, I really just want to stop the rust.

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  2. I would try 0000 or finer steel wool. Then I would coat the gun with RIG. The best stuff I have found that protects the gun from rust. Also keep your bare hands off the metal unless you are going to shoot it. I would also soak the rust spots with pentrating oil. and also when using the steel wool.

    #2 unclebob, Aug 19, 2013
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2013
  3. Ditto, however, I would use gun oil, on the 0000 steel wool. my smithy told me so.
    #3 max it, Aug 19, 2013
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2013
  4. I found the RIG and I have 0000 steel wool. What about the blueing of the bare metal? I have an oil soaked rag wrapped around the barrel on the rust spots right now until I figure out my plan. I wipe it down with an oil rag every time I touch it too. I have since I got it back. It's an older gun (about 25 years old) and the blueing is not durable as my newer guns.

    This is what I am looking at for reblueing:
  5. PhotoFeller

    Silver Member

    If you aren't troubled by small spots without blueing, apply Renaissance wax to all of the metal surfaces (and wood) to seal out moisture and prevent rust. Unless your gun is stored in an extremely damp area, rust won't be a problem if a good wax coating is present.

    I haven't had much luck with blueing pens, but you may get better results. Dabbing the spots with blueing should look better than shiny metal as long as the application is done after careful cleaning. Applying any cold blueing solution carefully with a cue tip ought to provide the same result.

    Good luck.
  6. Will probably work just as well as any cold bluing out there.
    Instead of wiping the blue guns down with oil use the RIG instead. I have a Zip Lock bag with a rag that has rig on it. Every time I touch the gun I wipe it down with the RIG. In 37 years of living in Florida I have not had gun rust using the RIG. Oil runs and it also can destroy wood stocks. One of the reasons you store long guns with the muzzle pointing down.
  7. When you use the RIG which one do you use exactly?
  8. I did not know that about the blued guns. I will change the way I store this one for sure. I had not though about the wood being ruined.
  9. That tells me what I need to know. I will remove the rust first and see if i want to mess with trying to re-blue. I might take it apart and have it coated.
  10. Grease. It does not take much. Just a light coat. When you want to use the firearm just wipe off.
    #10 unclebob, Aug 20, 2013
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2013
  11. Thanks while I'm at it I would like everyone's opinion on the custom gun stock I did on my Remington 700. ImageUploadedByOhub Campfire1377097163.779756.jpg ImageUploadedByOhub Campfire1377097178.353909.jpg ImageUploadedByOhub Campfire1377097191.271850.jpg
  12. Interesting. Not my cup of tea but still interesting. I like the synthetics but that is just me. How did you do that? With a torch of some sort?

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