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Steyr Maintenance Tutorial

Discussion in 'Steyr Club' started by DAIadvisor, Aug 14, 2004.


  1. DAIadvisor

    DAIadvisor
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    I got asked how to properly clean your Steyr, so I will outline the steps I take to keep my Steyr in top condition.

    Before you begin - take some newspapers, put them on your table, it will keep the overspray off your table surface, and when you are finished, just roll the paper up and throw it in the trash. Also, you'll need all your cleaning supplies, a can of Rem-Oil or equivalent, and a can of compressed air. (Last 2 are not mandatory, but nice to have) Let's begin.

    [​IMG]

    ************ INITIAL CLEANING *******************

    1. Take the pistol apart into 4 major components - frame, slide, barrel and spring assembly.

    [​IMG]

    2. Using Hoppes 9 solvent and a tooth brush apply solvent to the outside of the barrel, feeding ramp, spring assembly, and inside of the ejection port on the slide - pay apecial attention to extractor area, make sure you get all the fouling from behind the extractor by turning the brush sideways.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    3. Apply solvent in above described manner to the rails and locking block on the frame. Locking block is the metal piece that goes across the receiver just behind the front 2 rails that drops at 45 degree angle just before the mag well. Let everything soak. Also check the striker release mechanism (little pyramid shaped structure on the back of the frame between two rear rails) - make sure it's clean and free of any type of obstructions.

    [​IMG]

    4. Using appropriate size brass brush, run it through the barrel couple times and get all the residue out. I usually do it twice - once to get most of dirt out, second to clean it up. Again, let it soak for a little while.

    [​IMG]

    5. Visually inspect your parts to see if any other areas need to be cleaned. Apply solvent in the areas that need it. Clean accordingly.

    **************** Drying *********************

    6. Using clean patch, wipe the barrel dry. Use smaller patches to dry the inside. Make sure there is no solvent left inside when you are finished - you should be left with clean mirror-like surface. Set the barrel aside on a clean piece of newspaper.

    [​IMG]

    7. Wipe off your spring assembly. Squeeze the patch between the coils at the start of the spring and while pushing it in, rotate the spring and let it slide the patch along the coil to the other end. When you are done, Put the assembly on it's end, with one hand pull the spring down, wipe the end of the tension rod. Flip over and repeat with the other end. Set the spring assembly next to the barrel.

    8. Wipe off the slide - make sure walls of ejection port are clean and extractor has no dirt anywhere near it. Wipe down the whole slide inside and out. Make sure you hit the inverted rail cut-outs and the barrel and spring assembly openings. Depending on if you need it, clean the outside surface of the slide. Make sure extractor area is clear of oil and dry.

    Wipe the inside of your slide to look like this - no dirt or other foreign substance should be present.
    [​IMG]

    9. Wipe off the frame - hit all the areas with patches, make sure the residue is gone from the locking block area - rails usually don't get too dirty, but get them too just in case. Clean the SRM (striker release mechanism). Clean inside the mag well and all around the outside of the frame.

    [​IMG]

    10. I recommend using a can of compressed air to blow out the solvent and dirt you can't get with patches and brushes. You can get those just about anywhere for about $5.00.

    ******************* Lubrication ***********************

    In this section I will outline steps for lubing your Steyr. Keep in mind, I use my own custom methods, and up to date they haven't failed me. Feel free to improvise, but try it the way I do it, and let me know if it works better for you. I use compressed can Rem-Oil in combination with Synthetic oil. (Regular oil will work as a substitute).

    1. Put the barrel in the middle of your newspaper away from the other parts. Lightly spray it with Rem-Oil. Pay special attention to the locking lugs on the bottom of the barrel. Rotate the barrel as you spray it to ensure even distribution of lubricant. Work it in with your fingers to make sure the proper spread on the surface.

    [​IMG]

    (Rem-Oil leaves thin layer of teflon as it evaporates so don't worry if it appears too wet right now.) Set it aside.

    Green is marking the location of inverted slide rails and areas that need lubrication
    [​IMG]

    2. Repeat with spring assembly.

    3. Spray a small ammount of Rem-Oil into inverted slide rails on both sides and let it run down the rails. Wipe off the excess. Apply small ammount of oil to wall directly opposite the ejection port cutout, and top of the slide on the inside just in front of the ejection port, and inside the barrel cutout on the front of the slide.

    4. Aplly small ammount of oil on locking block, and frame rails - top and bottom.

    On the frame rails make sure the bottomis lubricated as well as the top
    [​IMG]

    Marked in Green are areas that need lubrication / Make sure extractor moves with finger pressure
    [​IMG]

    5. Apply small ammount to pyramid part of the SRM, and the firing pin catch on top. This is important to ensure you have a smooth crisp trigger pull.

    Apply small ammount of oil on both top and botom of SRM
    [​IMG]

    Work the extractor with your finger - make sure it moves back and forth about 1/8" to 1/4" this is important for proper ejection.

    6. Pay special attention to locking lugs on the bottom of the barrel - apply oil to ensure proper operation. Marked in green is the area where oil needs to be applied on top of Rem-Oil coating.
    [​IMG]


    ********************** Re-Assembly ***************************

    1. Put the pistol back together and check the action. You should feel the pistol work quieter and smoother now.

    [​IMG]

    Wipe off the excess lubrcant that you see on the frame and slide (if there is any).

    [​IMG]

    You are ready to go! I hope you enjoyed this little tutorial. I would like some feedback from you to see if it was helpful.

    ***************** MAGAZINE CLEANING UPDATE *********************

    Take your magazine apart, remove all the parts and set them on the table. Using Hoppes solvent and toothbrush, clean inside the mag body. Do the same for the follower. Wet a patch in solvent and rotate it through the spring, starting on one end and going to the next. Clean the floor plate and a bottom plate retainer piece.

    Take a large patch, put it over a toothbrush. While holding the mag body upright run a toothbrush up in down inside the mag body until it's clean and shiny. You might have to use your fingers when cleaning inside the feed lips. Wipe the outside too.

    Dry the follower, spring, retainer and floor plate.

    Lightly spray the spring with Rem-Oil or just lightly oil it with conventional gun oil. Do the same for the follower. Wipe them down somewhat, but leave them slightly wet. Wipe the floor plate and retainer with the same patch.

    Reassemble your mag, check for function. That's it!
     

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  2. TheNatureBoy

    TheNatureBoy
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    Wow! Thanks for the detailed information. I'm definitely going to print this out for my files after you get the pics posted.
     

  3. mrapathy2000

    mrapathy2000
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  4. DAIadvisor

    DAIadvisor
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    Pictures added.

    This is a basic cleaning tutorial, I will have to come up with more advanced version for complete slide and frame dissassembly. Hope you guys like it.
     
  5. Lobezno001

    Lobezno001
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    .45acp Lover

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    DAI, thanks so much for the detailed pics, it is greatly appreciated. I know many people have mentioned it before, but I was wondering if you had some pics or a link to some pics that clearly describe what should be dremel polished and how regarding slide, barrel, etc.. for a smoother operating Steyr.

    If anyone could post regards to this, I would greatly apprieciate it. Thanks!

    Lobez
     
  6. SouthpawShootr

    SouthpawShootr
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    This thread should be stickied.

    How about it moderators?
     
  7. mrapathy2000

    mrapathy2000
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    we need a moderator first I think.

    been few post that need sticky in this club.
     
  8. SouthpawShootr

    SouthpawShootr
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    ;P Wow. I didn't realize this there wasn't a moderator assigned here. How will we ever survive? ;f
     
  9. pwharve

    pwharve
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    DAIa,

    Thanks, this is good stuff--above and beyond.

    Much appreciated.

    (What's your trick for keeping oil off the camera? I photodocument the initial takedowns of my milsurps, focusing on all the cartouches, proof marks, wear, corrosion, etc, but I have the hardest time keeping the oil and cosmo off the camera.)

    --pwharve
     
  10. DAIadvisor

    DAIadvisor
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    Glad you all like it.

    pwharve: My camera lens is recessed inside the frame, so some oil did get on the camera itself, but not on the lens. Also I was cleaning and taking ictures in the same time, so oil on my hands was going on the camera as well as the gun. :) Sorry there is no trick to keep the camera clean, unless you have someone else take the pictures.
     
  11. pwharve

    pwharve
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    Darn. I was hoping you'd have a trick. My digital camera has so much cosmo and break-free collector on it at this point, it'll probably out last my Mosins and Mausers.

    BTW, the coloring in you photos is an outstanding touch.

    --pwharve
     
  12. cabowabo

    cabowabo
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    DAI,

    Thanks for stepping up and doing this. While I have allot of experience with Field grade weapons, I don't wanna mess up my pretty new girst ;f

    Obviously you computer skills and enthusiasm is very impressive....

    Now get a life you geek;c
     
  13. Kris

    Kris
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    Thanks for the info... Great Post!

    I assume the the little orange bottle is the synthetic oil you mentioned and that that should be used when you say apply instead of spray. The only other confusion I had was over the "spray a drop" in oil step 3?

    It would be great if mrapathy could added this to his FAQ site, with your permission of course. Really appreciate the info!
     
  14. DAIadvisor

    DAIadvisor
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    Kris,

    1. Orange bottles I have used to be Hoppes 9 oil, but after original was used up I refilled it with synthetic. You can use Mobil 1 - 1 quart should be pretty much a lifetime supply. :)

    2. This tutorial is for everyone to read and use, so feel free to copy, distribute and upload it.

    3. Thanks for the correction - it should read "spray a small ammount..." instead of "spray a drop" and has been changed.

    Mr. Apathy,

    If you would like to make it part of your site, that would be great.
     
  15. mrapathy2000

    mrapathy2000
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  16. DAIadvisor

    DAIadvisor
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    Mr. Apathy, I apologize - reply sent. :)
     
  17. srfl

    srfl
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    DAIA: Outstanding. Thanks much!

    ;f
     
  18. CyByte

    CyByte
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    if you have the parkerized finish be aware oil will be in the finish if temperature change can cause the oil to bleed out and collect. not sure bout the black oxide finish may do the same.

    I do not know if I have this or not. how do I know and are they the same or different?
     
  19. mrapathy2000

    mrapathy2000
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  20. FlaChef

    FlaChef
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    Steyroid

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    WHOOHOO;a ;f
    we got stickies!!