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Some .40 Specific Info Needed

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by Choppedlow, May 17, 2013.

  1. Choppedlow


    Apr 9, 2013
    Yuma, Arizona
    I am new to the reloading game. I received my Dillon 550 and dies a month ago and have been pumping out ammo as fast as we as a family can shoot. A few random questions I haven't gotten very clear answers for, some specifically for the .40.

    Why does the molly coated lead bullets smoke and stink when the plated ones don't? I got a bunch of the Bear Creek 180FP when I knew I was going to reload because its all I could find, and since have purchased plenty of plated 180 FP. Using the Hornady manual, I've done the exact same 5.3 grain (Longshot) loads with both, and the Bear Creek flat out smoke! I was a little thrown back when the plated bullets acted like run of the mill ones we were paying $25 per box. And I am really liking this load in my 27,22 and 35.

    With the molly coated I was told to not worry about them unless I was loading them hot and was melting the coating. This sound right? He owns the gun store and is pretty competitive with 3 gun, thus I took his word. I went up to 5.9 (Hornady book again) and they kicked, smoked and it looked like soot in the barrel after 200 rounds. I cleaned barrel after each 200, by the way.

    Primers. My wife found 4000 Remington Small Pistol and 1500 CCI. I can't tell the difference, can any of you? I've seen Wolf primers come up for sale. Are they worthwhile? If it goes "bang", it is good?

    Powder. I wrote down every brand listed in the Hornady book in my phone and purchased the first one I saw, Longshot. I wanted TightGroup, but it seems that so does everyone else. What would be the general 'go to' powder for .40? In this climate I'm just happy I got anything. But when powder becomes available again I would like to try others.

    Brass. How many times can you use the .40 with Glocks. I've read that Glocks are hard on .40 brass and that I should buy the Redding reforming die, or is it even needed? Do you ever need to resize the brass like with rifle? What is a good number of times you can reuse .40 brass?

    And as far as reloading goes, it is relaxing and hopefully it will pay for itself. It's been an information overdose this last six months for sure! Thanks for any info or input in advance. In the end I have settled on 5.3 Longshot with the plated 180gr FP. Thanks again!
  2. Boxerglocker

    Boxerglocker Jacks #1 Fan

    Mar 6, 2003
    Lynnwood, WA
    The molys smoke more because you essentially burning the moly which is a petroleum based product. Yes , like burning oil. How hot are you loading to? A powder like WST will reduce the smoke as it doesn't burn as hot. WST is all I use for 9mm BC molys and I load a lot of them. Glock brass in Glock barrels, load em till they split. I never had issues when loading Glock 40's
    Primers are primers.... Wolf primers aren't an issue provided you use standard springs and make sure you seat them completely into the primer pocket below flush.

  3. ColoCG


    Mar 18, 2011
    What Boxer said, plus you don't need the Redding GRX die. If it was me I would stay away from Titegroup in the .40.

    Good results for light to medium loads can be had with 231/HP38 it's the same and WST, Medium loads on up slower burning powders like Unique, WSF,Power Pistol, HS-6, and Universal do great. Longshot is a good powder too, but usually reserved for max velocities.
    Your 5.3gr. load is a light load but if it works for you great.
    When you say do you need to resize your brass like rifle, i'm guessing you might mean to trim the brass. No trimming is needed for straight walled pistol brass like the .40. You always need to resize your brass before reloading.
  4. unclebob


    Oct 14, 2000
    Mary Esther FL
    Basically what everyone has said so far. If you have a probably adjusted sizing die? A gen 3 or 4 Glock and if the sized case will fit in the case gauge. You do not net the Redding G-RX die. And in most cases you don’t need the G-RX for even the latter model Glocks. I never did. I also have the Redding G-RX and it was a waste of money.
    As for treating the 40 brass the same as rifle. No you do not need to trim brass. But if you have carbide dies you do not need to lube the cases. Even thought a lot of people do. If just makes sizing the brass easier on you and on the press. I would use Hornady one shot. Or the Lee mixed with alcohol. A lube that you do not have to remove after loading. Also you don’t have to lube every case. Put half the cases in a zip Lock bag spray into the bag close shake the brass around. Open the bag and spray again and shake. Open the bag and let it sit for a couple of minutes then mix them in with the other half of the brass that you are going to be loading. I spray the side of the bag and not directly onto the brass. But if does not hurt if the spray gets inside of the case.
    If you use fast burning powder. Make sure you look inside each and every case after the powder charge for the right amount of powder. Either no powder or a double charge. A good light shining inside the case helps. I recommend this one.
  5. fredj338


    Dec 22, 2004
    Yeah, I like Longshot, but it is a max effort powder IMO. For general range ammo, something a bit faster like the medium burners; WSF, Unique, Universal, even PP will work a bit better. Smoke, not every exp a lot of smoke when I did shoot moly. I avoid them now, jut don't like moly in the bbl, but if you want s oke start shooting lubed lead bullets. Less smoke, stick to plated or jacketed or back your moly loads down w/ a bit faster powder. TG in the 40, not if it were free, but I am a hater.
    Last edited: May 17, 2013
  6. Choppedlow


    Apr 9, 2013
    Yuma, Arizona
    Good deal on not having to trim the brass. I got the setup to do .223 as well, and everything I read about that starts with brass length. Makes me feel better! I have the case gauge I got from Dillon, but I use my barrel as far as checking the crimp. It can fit in the gauge and be tight in the barrel, but I do check length and make sure that my primers are all seated correctly.

    Thanks for the help, everyone! I am going to make some faster loads with the longshot and see if its better with the plated bullets. The Hodgdon data magazine has the loads starting at 6.5 and goes up to 8.0! Max load in Hornady is 4.8 to 7.5. I think maybe using the ranges chrono with some 5.9 might be a good idea. All we do is shoot 15-25yrd at the range or some steel targets if its not 120 outside. And I'm cheap, so the more rounds I get out of a pound the better!

    And thanks for the heads up with the Redding resizing die. I read everything I could find before I did this and came across that the .40's like to bulge with Glocks in two books. Run them till they split! Sounds good to me! I collect my brass and have different bins for how many times each has been reloaded.

    I just picked up another 22, this time with the tan frame :trek:. Every time I think I should finally break down and get a 1911, I end up buying another Glock. I have a Glock (and Noveske) affliction!
  7. F106 Fan

    F106 Fan

    Oct 19, 2011
    Make certain you DON'T crimp! For the .40, all you want to do is close up the case mouth. You should NOT be indenting the bullet. This will be critical for plated bullets where a crimp can strip off the jacket and leave it in the barrel.

    Yes, the .223 IS about trimming. Look into the RCBS X-DIE. In princple, you trim the case one time only to minimum. Then you use the X-Die for resizing and it doesn't allow the case to expand.

    I hope you have a case gauge for the .223 because headspacing and case length are very important.

    I don't know which brand of plated bullets you are using but go to the manufacturer's site and read what they have to save about velocity. There is usually a limit somewhere around 1000 fps. That's pretty fast for a .40 but I am trying to get to 990 fps to match a duty load.

    I used to be organized. Now I just dump them in a big bucket. Brass is brass. Shoot it till you lose it.