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Smith & Wesson Bolt replacement

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by hickok45, Mar 9, 2010.


  1. hickok45

    hickok45
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    Hey, I'm a bit of a tinkerer; I can break down a Colt SAA totally and stone it into a smoother action, etc. I take my Glocks down completely.

    One area I've not gotten into over the years is taking the entire guts / mechanism out of Smith double action revolvers. Not sure why.

    Anyway, the bolt broke on an old Model 29 of mine last weekend. Is that hard to get back in when and if I find / order a new one? Or, is that a definite gunsmithing job?

    The flat piece with the projection on it that punches through the hole in the frame has broken off the other part (if you can tell what I mean). I'm assuming I need to replace the whole thing.

    Thanks,
     
  2. eisman

    eisman
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    ARGH!
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    The bolt is an integral part of the timing of the action. It is not a part for a novice to attempt. There are three critical surfaces that need to be fitted. Failure to get this wrong can make the trigger heavier, leave a ring on the cylinder, fail to lock the cylinder properly, cause other parts to break (mainly if the unlocking part is out of time).
     

  3. hickok45

    hickok45
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    Thanks for the advice. It's odd that it's actually called the bolt. I looked it up on the S&W diagram for a Model 29 parts schematic, and it's called the bolt, but I was a bit surprised that's the bolt. I don't know; I guess I'm thinking of my Colt SAAs.

    It's the part on the S&W attached to the cylinder release. The little piece that punches through the hole in the frame is broken off the other larger piece.
     
  4. eisman

    eisman
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    Okay, the main criteria to fit this is to make sure it is not too long on the face of the pin that will push on the center pin. This does several things; 1. it insures a good lock up, 2. it insures that the hammer has clearance to move when the cylinder is in place, and that it does not when the cylinder is out, and 3. that the sear is is the correct position when the hammer is forward. Fit properly it is .002" out the face of the recoil shield when fully forward. It should also be very smooth and dead square. That effects the trigger pull.
     
  5. hickok45

    hickok45
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    Thanks, I'll leave this one to an expert.