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Discussion in 'The Cutting Edge' started by Carolina Drifter, Jan 13, 2010.
What's the best pull thru sharpener for SS blades.
Wanna kill these ads? We can help!
sharpmaker (spiderco) is the best sharpener I have ever owned. I am not sure it will suit your needs
I second that^. Will sharpen both plain and serrated blades.
+3 on the Spyderco Sharpmaker. I bought the diamond rods too, for damaged or reprofiling blades. Don't forget to buy a decent cheap strop too, I love mine for polishing the edge after sharpening.
Thanks Folks, I will look into it right away.
yep for the money get the sharpmaker I have water stones all sorts of other items also I still use the SM the most for sure
you're trying to tell me this SM is better then stones??
I'm a very big fan on lanskey, have heard nothing but good things about the Sharpmaker.
Whatever you choose...do not use a carbide pull through. It WILL ruin your knife blade.
has anyone mentioned the Spydie Sharpmaker?
I have it, and a lansky pro kit. I haven't used the lansky since I bought the sharpmaker.
That is a common malady.
the Lansky and Craco(spelling) ones are not bad either I just like the sharpmaker over all else I have tried
i just got the Spyderco Sharpmaker, for Christmas, after using a Lansky for years.
i have mixed feelings on the Sharpmaker - some of my knives it will get perfectly sharp. however, it really only seems to work with three of my knives, all Benchmades and all relatively sharp already. every other knife i've tried to sharpen, it will NOT TOUCH. now, i don't have the diamond rods, just the basic kit, but i'll work a blade on the coarse rod FOREVER and nothing
The Sharpmaker is designed to keep knives sharp. Not sharpen dull knives. If a knife is too dull, the rods (they are medium, not coarse. And even then they don't remove much metal) will take forever to get it sharp. This may sound bad, but the good side of the equation is that this is precisely why it can get knives so sharp. If it was coarse enough to do what you want from it right now, then it could only put a coarse edge on the knives, and they wouldn't get nearly as sharp as they can get when used properly (not very difficult).
What your describing is exactly what the Sharpmaker excels at. That is why most people who get the Sharpmaker eventually find themselves using the Lansky less. The Lansky is good for setting a new bevel, but the Sharpmaker helps so that the Lansky is rarely needed.
Chances are you aren't even hitting the edge with the hones. This is experienced by many new Sharpmaker owners. A good method to try is the magic marker trick. Take a magic marker, and color the edge bevel in until completely black. Then run a few passes down the rods, checking between each pass to see where the ink is being removed. That's were your removing the metal from. Where the ink remains is the area not being hit by the rods.
Another thing new owners discover is that not all knives have the same bevel angle that the Sharpmaker sharpens at, so they need to re profile the edge.
Be patient. It's just like people shooting low left with a Glock. Chances are it's the user rather than the equipment. Just be patient and look to the long term benefit. Sharpmaker users regularly walk around with knives that are sharp enough to shave with. Chances are it's just a matter of finding the way out of the mouse trap.
I've had knives that the Sharpmaker wouldn't help. Rather than continuing to run them down the rods, I found tools that were better suited to removing metal faster than the Sharpmaker rods. I'd use those to knock the bevel angle back down, and then with that done, transfer them over to the Sharpmaker.
Learning to sharpen is a process, and part of that is taking the time to practice and develop the skills. There are knife afi forums where you can probably get even better advice/help. Spyderco factory forums, bladeforums, knifeforums. Go visit them and seek advice from people much more skilled than I.
The Sharpmaker is a good tool that is easy to use for a beginner (Me at one time). I actually had someone sharpen his knife on his Edgepro, to the best of his ability to show me how it looked off that kit. I wouldn't say it did a bad job, but the Sharpmaker put a keener edge on my knife than he had on his. Mind you, he's happy with the edge he can put on his knife. I almost felt guilty showing him what my Sharpmaker can do, but I don't think it made him less happy.
Like most things, you get out of it what you put into it, only with the Sharpmaker, it isn't so much effort once you get the hang of it.
Here's more if this post wasn't too long.
yes, this is exactly what i was thinking - if i had the diamond rods. i made a mistake when i said "coarse", i remembered (after u mentioned it) that it comes with medium and fine. which is what irks me, i don't mind having to buy the diamond stones separate, but they should fit in the box. i mean it's pitched as a complete sharpening system, fine and medium is not complete. as for it being for keeping knives sharp and not for sharpening dull knives, that's the general opinion i've gotten off everybody who used one before me. however, when i watch their little informercial, they take a DULL knife and make it SHARP.
i like the system, i just think there should be a coarser rod included.
I know what your saying about the demo. Me thinks it was very soft steel, and probably not so dull. You'll understand once you get there. Lot's of people carry knives that aren't all that sharp, yet sharp enough for their liking. The Sharpmaker takes it to a different level.
No, a sharpmaker won't teach you to sharpen. Nor is it better than bench stones (of any quality, natural or synthetic).
A Norton 1000/4000 combo synthetic waterstone is a good beginners rock, as you'll wear out the 1000 side in a couple years and by then your skill will exceed the utility of that hone.
A good rock is a belgian 10x3 BBW, just under 100$ and fast on big knives.
A better rock is a coticule, cream colored, rare, expensive, and ultra-fine grit...and STILL faster than you think it ought to be.
A DMT diamond Duo-Sharp has a different grit on each side, and Fine/ExtraFine will save lots of time. Nearly as fast as a waterwheel.
Use the duo sharp to do the first 85%, the big belgian blue to do the next 10% and the coticule to do the last 5% (going by time)
and you'll have a knife that will cut a free hanging hair. That is *sharp*, and bragworthy from now on. You can learn in an afternoon, and keep improving thereafter.
within reach are two straight razors, an endura in ZDP-189, a dozier thorn in d2, two david farmer small fixed blades in O1, a kiridashi in blue steel, a carbon steel letter opener, an arkansas lily white (>80 yrs old) a 6x1.5 hard arkansas, a 3x1/2x1/8 translucent burnishing stone..
and the waterstones are all around the kitchen sink, not but a few steps away. these arkansas stones are used for polishing and burnishing after most of the sharpening is done.
Watch these and save money!
I do this and I use a strop to finish off with easy-peasy!
has anyone owned or used the Wicked Edge sharpening system? Its pricey so I would like some feedback on it before purchasing one. There's some videos on youtube and they look pretty uncanny.
The Wicked Edge sharpening system would make a wicked dent in your wallet. Have you looked at a Spyderco Sharpmaker (most popular sysem around) at about $50 delivered at Amazon?
Sharpening a knife is not rocket science, it just takes a little practise and offers so much enjoyment when you've learned how to do it.
I'd like to say though - whatever is best for you is the best way!