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Securing low profile gas block?

Discussion in 'Black Rifle Forum' started by Cole125, Sep 20, 2012.


  1. Cole125

    Cole125
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    Here is the deal, I have the Troy low profile gas block adjusted on my PSA 14.7 upper so the rifle runs like a top.

    Now I want to make sure it stays where its at. Is just high temp loc tite on the set screws enough to keep the gas block in place or is dimpling the barrel a must?

    Also, has any one had problems with their low profile gas blocks moving out of place?

    Thanks
     

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  2. WoodenPlank

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    Dimple the barrel. Yes, I have seen low profile blocks walk, but mostly with clamp-on type blocks.

    Dimple it, use red lock-tite to keep the screw from coming loose, and call it a day.

    Edit: if you have already applied red lock-tite, take your time both removing it (lots of heat) and make sure to clean as much of the old lock-tite off the screws AND the threads inside the block as possible before reinstalling. I nearly (fatally) buggered the screws on my YHM block by trying to torque them back in with too much old lock-tite gumming up the threads.
     

    #2 WoodenPlank, Sep 20, 2012
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2012
  3. Cole125

    Cole125
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    I have not applied any type of thread locker to the gas block set screws yet(PSA didn't either :wow: ), just been shooting it with the screws hand tight.

    Why red loc tite for the screws over green high temp loc tite?
     
  4. jjslice

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    i dont think red loctite will hold
     
  5. WoodenPlank

    WoodenPlank
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    Not sure of how to get the green stuff off, but a propane torch will make red weak enough to get the screw out.

    It'll hold just fine, unless you plan on trying to loosen the screw while firing it. The lock-tite is just there to keep the screw from backing out, and the dimple in the barrel (with screw recessed in it) keeps the gas block from sliding off.
     
  6. faawrenchbndr

    faawrenchbndr
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    Red works just fine,....the key thing to take from this thread is:
    dimple the barrel.
     
  7. bullittmcqueen

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    Dimple the barrel. Don't use clamp ons.
     
  8. Mayhem like Me

    Mayhem like Me
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    Dimple works.
    OR if you have a drill press and a machinist vise you can taper pin it.

    I have a MI clamp with flip up front sight on a Hard use Colt Commado that was rebarreled with a 12.5 Medium heavy LW50 1x8 poly that has not move despite being knocked about frequently..

    I did use my "Ginger Gorilla torque " to afix it, the steel on the clap has wrapped around so it is probably tighter than a press fit.
     
  9. Big Bird

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    I pin all mine. No need to taper pin. A good tight fitting straight pin works fine.

    Not a job for a drill press. Too much run out. Proper way is with a mill.

    Don't have a mill so I send it to ADCO for $55.
     
  10. faawrenchbndr

    faawrenchbndr
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    This would be the BEST choice.
     
  11. WayaX

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    Pinned is the best way to go. Rainier Arms did mine for $25 or so (plus shipping both ways) a few years ago.

    If you don't want to pin it, the dimples are mandatory.
     
  12. Walt_NC

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    I agree with the dimple advocates. Have you tried Rocksett before? Works like loctite but it's engineered for high temp applications like gas blocks and muzzle attachments. It won't run when it gets hot, unlike traditional red and blue loctite (dont know about the green- never tried it). FWIW, it's what Surefire and AAC recommend when mounting their brakes/flash hiders.
     
  13. Cole125

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    I'll order some of that Rocksett to use on the set screws, looks like a good product.

    I plan on dimpling the barrel no question.

    What I would like to know is if anyone has had a gas block move out of position with a non dimpled barrel?
     
  14. faawrenchbndr

    faawrenchbndr
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    Can't answer that,......I've always dimpled mine.
     
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