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Discussion in 'The Okie Corral' started by canis latrans, Jan 2, 2013.
best heat trace wiring/installation tips, etc.
I've used the cables and they work ok, as long as you also line your gutters and downspouts to keep water flowing freely. The cables attach with sharp clips, so there will be slight shingle damage.
The trick to ice dams is this- insulate the hell out of your attic and make sure your soffits are vented in order to keep the attic cold. No rising heat, no dams.
Until you insulate your attic, buy a roof shovel to keep the 3 foot edge of your roof raked clean.
Yep, roof rake works like a champ.
Freeze-Thaw cycles are not your friend.
Run HT Cable in a zig zag pattern along the lower 12" edge of the roof.
Extend the cables into the length of the gutter and downspouts.
Control them from an outdoor stat.
Fix the problem - vent the attic, insulate the roof.
And don't have a north-facing corner where 1/4 of your garage, half of your mud room and 1/6th of your main house roof drain into.
I'm well insulated. But that corner is just a b-word. I've taken to raking because I have gutter guards which are not conducive to heat wire.
The simple and cost effective solution is to simply cover your entire roof deck with Ice & Water shield. Most homes get one course (if your lucky) then the dam builds up beyond it. Cover the whole roof deck and it won't matter how severe the dam is, water can't get in.