I joined SigFTW and landed one of the new Rock Island 10mm's. CTD's ordering process was a PITA but it's done and the order is processed. Can't wait to see this baby. Ordered some ammo from Underwood too boot. My first time dealing with Underwood and was very pleased. Seems like a quality operation. Pics and range report to follow sometime after the gun lands. :supergrin:
Some website pics, but it won't look like this for long...:whistling:
It is if you are talking about the build yes. I think you are the same one talking about having 2k in parts to make it run right. I highly doubt it would take that much but money better spent if a 1911 10mm is what you want with a build that runs right can be had for $1000. You cancelled though right? Adding lights, accs and stuff no, that's normal user stuff.
Don't think I have much to learn about 10mm's. Have been messing with them a long while now and understand the firearms and round itself.
EAA Hunter Lonslide, S&W 1006, EAA Elite Match and Dan Wesson Razorback.
It is if you are talking about the build yes. I think you are the same one talking about having 2k in parts to make it run right. I highly doubt it would take that much but money better spent if a 1911 10mm is what you want with a build that runs right can be had for $1000. You cancelled though right? Adding lights, accs and stuff no, that's normal user stuff.
Don't think I have much to learn about 10mm's. Have been messing with them a long while now and understand the firearms and round itself.
EAA Hunter Lonslide, S&W 1006, EAA Elite Match and Dan Wesson Razorback.
You obviously haven't read a single word I've written. Your entire post is made up of jibberish and really makes you look quite foolish. Maybe you should quit while you're behind. :upeyes: BTW, that Razorback might make for a decent base gun build. The others...while 10mm's, aren't 1911's. So why drag them into this thread? I own a G20 and G29. Does that have anything to do with this thread? :dunno:
If someone told me to run a 14lb spring in a 10mm I would immediately know they are absolutely clueless. Kinda scary that RIA is giving out this advice.
If someone told me to run a 14lb spring in a 10mm I would immediately know they are absolutely clueless. Kinda scary that RIA is giving out this advice.
Can't argue with that statement and did not have enough experience with the 1911 10mm to argue with him on what # spring was needed, I just knew that the spring it came with was not enough.
This is my first 1911 10mm, and my third 10mml, the other two are S&W 1006. So I'm still learning about the 1911 10mm. The 1006 is a tank and can handle HOT loads and never needed tweaking, both ran 100% out the box!
So, the consensus I am seeing is that it should be around 20lbs spring minimum? If so, I'll buy a heavier spring.
Can't argue with that statement and did not have enough experience with the 1911 10mm to argue with him on what # spring was needed, I just knew that the spring it came with was not enough.
This is my first 1911 10mm, and my third 10mml, the other two are S&W 1006. So I'm still learning about the 1911 10mm. The 1006 is a tank and can handle HOT loads and never needed tweaking, both ran 100% out the box!
So, the consensus I am seeing is that it should be around 20lbs spring minimum? If so, I'll buy a heavier spring.
You can get away with ~18lb, but I' probably start with 20lb and go up from there, maybe see where your at each increment. Personally if it were me, I'd be looking to play with mainsprings and throw in that flat EGW FPS stop as well.
If it were me, to save a bit of shipping costs, I'd buy a 20, 21, & 23#
The Delta Elite runs a 23#, the bull barrel is not going to slow
the slide much.
If you had a squared firing pin stop you could
lower the spring pressure a few pounds. However the squared
fps placed a bit more wear on the hammer & pin. I prefer to
tune with springs for the load at hand.
If it were me, to save a bit of shipping costs, I'd buy a 20, 21, & 23#
The Delta Elite runs a 23#, the bull barrel is not going to slow
the slide much.
If you had a squared firing pin stop you could
lower the spring pressure a few pounds. However the squared
fps placed a bit more wear on the hammer & pin. I prefer to
tune with springs for the load at hand.
You can get away with ~18lb, but I' probably start with 20lb and go up from there, maybe see where your at each increment. Personally if it were me, I'd be looking to play with mainsprings and throw in that flat EGW FPS stop as well.
Handled one at Cheaperthandirt in McKinney and it wouldn't lock back the slide consistently when pulling slide back with mag in it. Also, they still use the crappy unbeveled ambi safety.
i figured this was common knowledge in the gun making community....5" 1911 10mm needs a 20 pound spring at least....im just the layman and i knew it.
however, the 10mm is a uniquely American cartridge and RIA ia filipino so maybe they just dont know much about it.
i put an 18.5 pound spring in my RIA .45 gi model, the 16 pounder just seemed a little weak to me.
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