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Resizing Brass

Discussion in '10mm Reloading Forum' started by Special Reserve, Dec 26, 2012.


  1. Special Reserve

    Special Reserve
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    I've got a question about resizing brass. I have a Dillon 550 w/Dillon dies. I've been reloading for my G29 and my G20 fro a few years. Never had a problem with my reloads fitting in the chamber. I picked up a S&W 1006 last week and took it out to shoot and about half my rounds wouldn't chamber. I figured it was because the brass is "Glocked". I have plenty of new brass but I like to reload the old a few times for less than nuclear loads. So my question is, do I need a different resizing die or do I need after market barrels for the glocks with a tighter chamber? I don't want to get into making a batch of reloads for the glocks and another batch for the S&W. Or is there another solution?
    Thanks
     

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  2. Taterhead

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    I understand not wanting to have separate brass for each gun. First question would be whether the feeding problems are sizing problems. You did not say if you did the "plunk" test with the Smith. That will let you know if it is a brass, or bullet profile, problem.

    You likely need a different die. Some size down lower, or you might need to go all the way with a pass through. Others will suggest dumping the Glock barrel, but I am personally more inclined to adapt my reloading setup to my guns rather than the other way around.
     

  3. mnhogrider

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    Does an empty fired case fit in the chamber of the revolver? Then try resizing an empty case and see if it chambers. Where's it hanging up? By the case head or by the case mouth with a bullet loaded and crimped? How about factory ammo? Does that fit OK?

    I'm using Dillon dies for .357 magnum and .44 magnum and never had a problem chambering them in any of my revolvers.

    I've got a G29, but no revolver in 10MM so I can't compare. My guess would be if they're feeding fine into your Glocks, that they should fit the cylinder holes of a S&W revolver without issue.
     
  4. _The_Shadow

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    Well with the hotter ammo being fired in the Glock Chambers they do expand very low on the casing to right above the start of extractor groove. I have been reconditioning my brass by using the LEE FCD die with the guts removed and utilizing the carbide portion as a "Pass-Thru-Die" system. To get the best results you need to mount this very high in the press to take full advantage of the leverage at the top of the stroke.

    I use a bullet sizing push pin (a little longer that what is sold in the Bulge Buster Kit) that mounts in place of a regular shell holder of my RCBS press, I place a brass (primer down on to the pin) and shove these up and into the FCD's carbide ring for a full sizing front to ejection rim.
     
  5. Taterhead

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    FWIW, the 1006 referred to by the OP is an auto-loader.
     
  6. Kwesi

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    Special Reserve: funny you should ask today. Yesterday I came across an old post back in 2011 by "whenmonkeysfly". He uses and recommends a Redding G-RX Carbide Base Sizing Die Kit for removing the entire Glock bulge from 10mm. I was wondering earlier today if the die works in a Dillon 550 press. I did not have time to call Redding though. If so I got a spare tool head to use with it. Midway USA carries them. BTW: Reddidng also makes a Bottle Adapter for this die but I do not know exactly what it is designed to do.
     
    #6 Kwesi, Dec 26, 2012
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2012
  7. _The_Shadow

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    The push pins are designed to replace the shellholders of single stage presses and need to be very strong. It takes quite a bit of leverage to force the brass up and thru the pass thru dies.

    The bottle is a catch can for the brass being shoved out the top of the dies as you work.
    I have tested my brass in the Lyman cartridge case gauge after pass thru sizing and they will slide in easily and reliably. Thus they fit my barrels of all of my 10mm guns like that of factory cartridges.

    Another big PLUS is you are inspecting you brass at this step for damage or "SMILES" these are not to be reused.
     
  8. Kwesi

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    Shadow: looks like I need to score an old single stage.
     
  9. _The_Shadow

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    I would recommend something simular to the Rock Chucker for the compound leverage at the top of the stroke! I use a RCBS Big Max and I do all 10mm, 40S&W, 357Sig and 9x25 Dillon cases to recondition mine...
     
  10. blastfact

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    You can treat the disease like Shadow does. Or you could get a real barrel for your Glock and roll right on. It's funny how Glock makes chambers looser than a $2 whores ******. But all the other pistols out there make do with much tighter chambers. And they cycle real good.

    I would say build your Glock to meet the Smith's specs. And then go hog wild....

    :)

    Damn junk Glock chambers!!!! Wish I could buy there pistols less there useless paper weight barrels.
     
    #10 blastfact, Dec 26, 2012
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2012
  11. TDC20

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    I took _The_Shadow's advice and use the Lee FCD as a pass-thru die on my Rock Chucker. Works great, and as a bonus, it also fixes those hot load ejector burrs that cause the brass to hang up on the shell holder. I can pretty much guarantee this will fix your issue.
     
    #11 TDC20, Dec 26, 2012
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2012
  12. Special Reserve

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    Ok, I pulled the barrel out and all of the ammo that would not feed, did in fact fit into the chamber when it was out of the gun. It all passed my case gauge(Dillon) and both Glock barrels. Now I'm stumped. The rounds that would no load seemed to catch on the feed ramp. Maybe it's not the brass?
     
  13. _The_Shadow

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    What is you COAL of the cartridges as the longer lengths can present an issue as the cartridge is lifted to be fed, the angle can be of issue as it tips up into the chamber.

    Springs both recoil and magazine springs can help with timing issues. The magazine spring can be an extra power to push the next round up to the top faster, and the recoil spring can help with slide velocity to allow the rounds to be picked up and driven to battery. I have read where some people experienced short stroke using aftermarket recoil springs which bound up as the slide traveled to the rear, it was advised to use flat springs instead of the round wire...
     
  14. Special Reserve

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    COAL is 1.260. I guess I could try to make it a little shorter. Not looking to increase the pressures but the gun has to function. The gun is NIB along with the mags. I wondered about the springs but they are 20+ years old but never fired so i figured they would still be ok. That would be an easy swap if I had to try that. This is my first venture off the glock reservation. So don't really know a whole bunch about these S&W's. I know what both my glocks like but it did take a little trial an error at the beginning. Thanks for all the info guys.
     
  15. _The_Shadow

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    At first I thought you were talking about a Glock pistol you were having issues with.
    I only load to 1.250" for finished rounds, although I will test at 1.260" on occassions checking for pressure characteristics as I shorten them.

    I run the Wolff gun springs 22lbs for my S&W1006 which has been running very well even as I use a 40S&W in my Bar-Sto conversion barrel. They also have extra power magazine springs as well.

    Which followers are in your magazine for the S&W? White? or Yellow? Midway USA does have some replacement followers New Style is White with the straight tip. While I haven't had any issues with either the yellow or white, the angled tip of the older yellow followers was changed to help.

    Best regards
     
  16. Special Reserve

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    The gun came with 2 mags with yellow followers but I didn't even bother with them. I just got a bunch of new mags from midway about 3 weeks ago all had white followers. When I did a search white seemed to be the way to go. I'll load up some with shorter OALs and see if I can get them to feed. Then I guess I can try to swap springs next. Thanks
     
  17. _The_Shadow

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    Be sure to place some oil on the slide rails, one or two small drops each side.
     
  18. ModGlock17

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    Don't go fixing anything major when the gun is less than 500 rounds old (my rule of thumb). Barely oil them in the first 100 round to get the wear and smooth them.

    New guns just don't move well. That's why I like resale guns a few hundred rounds old rather than NIB.

    It takes quite a few rounds for the barrel and slide to "mate", if you know what I mean.
     
    #18 ModGlock17, Dec 29, 2012
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2012