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Removing lead from a barrel

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by AZson, Jan 3, 2010.

  1. AZson

    AZson

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    Whats your best technique for removing lead from a barrel?:headscratch:
     
  2. fredj338

    fredj338

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    Easiest, get some CHoreBoy copper wool. Wrap some around an old bronze bore brush. Put a patch of Kroil or bore solvent into the bbl first then start scrubbing w/ the copper wool. Won't hurt the bbl & pulls the lead out in 3-4 passes, 7-8 if it's really bad. Follow w/ an oiled patch, done.
     


  3. Boxerglocker

    Boxerglocker Jacks #1 Fan

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    Lynnwood, WA
    Works like a charm! :supergrin:
     
  4. DustyJacket

    DustyJacket Directiv 10-289

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    Missouri, East of KC
    Lewis Lead Remover, if you don't like chemicals.
     
  5. PCJim

    PCJim Senior Member

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    FL
    What Fred said. You can do this without the solvent to remove the lead first, then clean as normal. Be sure the Chore Boy scouring pad that you get is all copper and not copper-plated steel. Check it with a magnet.
     
  6. dudel

    dudel

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  7. Jumper

    Jumper

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  8. Uncle Don

    Uncle Don Wood butcher

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    It's controversial - but a 50/50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and vinegar is supposed to remove lead pronto. However, I have also heard that left too long, it' not good on the bbl. I haven't tried it to know.

    Not sure what the truth is, but I tend to try and avoid by using alox with lead bullets. Granted, it's slightly smokier, but my bbl is always mirror clean.
     
  9. Patrick Graham

    Patrick Graham Footlong Jr.

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    Kokomo Indiana
    All of the above plus if the leading is real bad a guy should probably look into the cause.
     
  10. CA Coach

    CA Coach

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    SoCA
  11. fredj338

    fredj338

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    You still need solvent to remove carbon & if applyed first, it helps loosen the lead for easier/faster removal. I like the Foul out, but I can clean my bbl in the time it takes to set the Foul Out up. The LLR is good, but still needs solvent to clean the carbon out & you have to buy those stupid llittle brassmesh screens. One box of ChoreBoy for like $2 will last you at least 5yrs of cleaning.
    Shooting jacketed, well. that's just cheating, not to mention way more expensive.:tongueout:
     
  12. dudel

    dudel

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    Texas Hill Country
    No problem with mine. Plug the barrel, stand it up, insert the rod w/orings, fill the barrel, hook it up and run. I use the same time as I do on the tumbler. After an hour or so, the rod is plated with lead or copper.

    Disconnect, remove from stand, drain, remove plug, run dry patch, run patch with lube and done. I know I should degrease the barrel first, but it hasn't made much difference for me, so I don't.

    I don't use it for all cleaning, but when a barrel gets leaded from trying new casting metal or loads, it works great.

    For me, the key was to fill it when the rod was in place. If you fill the barrel, then put the rod in, you displace some of the liquid. That's messy. I also tend to use the smallest orings supplied. It lets the liquid get down quicker.

    Otherwise, it's cleaner than foaming bore cleaner.

    It's also fun to do to a friend's barrel after he thought it was "clean".
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2010
  13. rickyc2

    rickyc2

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    Whitehall Michigan
    You should not be shooting lead bullets in a Glock... Taboo:crying:
     
  14. Jumper

    Jumper

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    Ref the Outers Foul Out: To be fair I never used it on my pistol barrel, only my deer rifle. I suspect being able to remove the barrel from the firearm would make it easier. Cleaning the rifle it was impossible to keep the solution off the wood or from getting in to the action.
     
  15. unclebob

    unclebob

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    Mary Esther FL
    That should only be used on Glock and stainless steel barrels only. You only use it for no more than 5 minutes and then rinse if off in water.
     
  16. dudel

    dudel

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    Texas Hill Country
    I can certainly see how it would be harder to use in the circumstances you mention.

    Don
     
  17. Uncle Don

    Uncle Don Wood butcher

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    If I couldn't shoot lead in my Glock, I wouldn't shoot it. If you coat with alox, they won't burn and that is what leaves the lead. Granted, it's a smokey load but the trade off of never having even a trace of lead in the bbl is worth it to me. So far, 6k of lead through the G21 and about 1k through my 36. I do use jacketed only in the .357 sig but I'm not afraid to use lead in a 9 or 40 given the same treatment.

    I know what Glock says - but they also say not to use reloads at all. At the last armors re-cert, I privately asked the instructor and he said that even though my procedure is "acceptable", Glock will stick with their policy simply because they can't control how people would use lead projectiles and under the wrong circumstances, it can and does leave lead traces - and therefore reduces bore diameter and in turn, pressure increases. I asked privately because I didn't want to put him on the spot, but after lunch, he reiterated the same thing to the class.

    Just for fun, last time I had Ben from Glockmeister on the phone, I hit him up about it too - he said the same thing the Glock instructor did. BTW, HK uses the same boring and that doesn't seem to be an issue for people.

    As a last note though - I'm not recommending, I'm simply stating what has worked for me for years.