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Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by Dogman 10x, Jan 12, 2013.
I cannot get the base pads off of my New GLOCK 17 mags.... What the hell is the secret!??
This method works for me. http://glocktalk.com/forums/blog.php?b=570
You must lever them so hard you will swear you will break them! Don't worry, you won't.
Push your armorer's tool or 3/32 punch as far into the baseplate hole as it can go, pushing aside the inner plate. Then lever the tool HARD to force the plate toward the front of the mag. You may feel the tool levering against the spring; no problem. Some like to compress the bottom sides of the mag at those side tabs, but this is not truly necessary.
It's simple to do, after you figure it out. Like has been said use take down tool as a lever and they come right off. Insert the take down tool and angle it and you can feel it "catch" and it'll lever the base plate off. No need for special tools or additional tools to do it.
DO NOT USE THE GLOCK TAKEDOWN TOOL AS A LEVER.
(You'll gouge the Hell out of your insert plate and elongate the base pad's center hole if you do.)
I think "won't" should start to be "shouldn't" because I ACTUALLY BROKE ONE! I'm sure this is the infinitesimal minority, but a while back I was taking the floorplates off as is directed in so many places and found 1 of the inserts cracked in half!
It's never happened again and thankfully I was putting extensions on that came with their own inserts so I just kept one of the removed inserts for a spare. But it CAN happen.
This bears repeating.
If you have to use a tool to remove the base plate, give the GTUL a try. Makes the task much easier.
The Glock tool works great to push the inner plate up out of the way, but yeah, don't use it to press off the base. I carry a 3/32" nail set for that. The taper allows it to be inserted for maximum bearing surface.
These things can be a real ***** the first few times they're taken apart. It helps a lot to set a clamp on the tube, just above the little tabs that engage the baseplate. They need to be squeezed in to clear the corresponding notches.
If you have a set of mags you use for matches or range, it's a good idea to cycle the baseplates a few times in the convenience of your shop. Make sure you can break them all down easily with whatever tools you carry in your bag. Match day is not the time to discover you can't open a mag that needs to be cleaned out.
There was a pretty good video about disassembling the Glock magazine on page 3, 5th thread from bottom.
Wish I were computer litterate enough to bring it up for you. I watched it several times. It's a good video, well done, & very clear to watch.
Hope this helps.
When I try I always stretch out or elongate the floor plate pin hole...
There's some good thinking and technique in the last several posts. What I do is to use, 'shock' or, 'impact' in order to get the base plates to release.
After I raise the insert plate up and out of the way, I compress the bottom of the magazine walls against the edge of a table. This relieves the pressure of the internal, 'ears' that normally holds the base plate firmly in place. With the internal insert plate raised, and the ears compressed inward from their corresponding indents in the base plate, I'll insert the shaft of a 3/32's punch (armorer's tool) into the hole in the center of a base plate, and keep intermittently yanking it forward until the frozen base plate finally lets go.
It doesn't take that many, 'yanks' before, even a brand new, base plate starts to move off the magazine body. Once it starts to move, you're, 'home free'; and after the base plate comes off for the first time it only gets easier to do, thereafter. (Yes, I do have MINIMAL hole elongation on my base plates; but my insert plates, themselves, are mostly unmarked.)