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Relining a barrel. Please educate me

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by restlessgun, May 7, 2010.


  1. restlessgun

    restlessgun
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    What is meant by relining a barrel?

    I gather that smiths put a metal tube inside the original barrel. Other than that I don't know much about it.

    Is it expensive?

    The only reason I asked is because my old Winchester 150 is not shooting like it used to.

    Used to hit dead on at 25 plus yards. now the shots are printing all over the place.

    I clean the gun every time I'm done using it. I can't tell if the rifling is bad or not.

    I know I'm getting old and the hands shake a bit but not that much.

    Thanks in advance.
     

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  2. Brucev

    Brucev
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    Take your rifle to a reputable gunsmith and have him look for any issues. Look at the condition of he chamber and crown. Also look at the fitting of the stock. For a rifle to suddenly begin printing its shots all over the paper at a distance where it used to hit dead on, something almost certainly has gone wrong either with the bedding, the chamber or the crown. JMHO. Sincerely. Brucev.
     

  3. restlessgun

    restlessgun
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    Thanks Bruce

    This is an old, gun made back in the 60's and had at least a couple of thousand rounds through it.

    Parts all still are original.
    I guess something would have to wear out sometime.
     
  4. m2hmghb

    m2hmghb
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    A couple thousand or tens of thousands? Most likely the muzzle of the rifle is damaged from cleaning rod abuse. A 22 should last a lot longer then thousands of rounds. M1 Garand barrels in 30-06 are rated to 5,000 rounds before replacement, and they will still be decent accuracy wise at 8,000 rounds.
     
  5. restlessgun

    restlessgun
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    I took the gun to the smith this morning.
    Nothing wrong with the barrel. Head spacing and barrel needs recrowning.
    $75.00 with a two week pickup.

    He said that model has issues with head spacing and I should use a crown protector when I clean the gun.
     
  6. Brucev

    Brucev
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    Cool. Glad the gunsmith was able to help you.
     
  7. restlessgun

    restlessgun
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    Thanks for the advice.

    This was my Grandpa's .22 and he gave it to me before he passed on.
    I envisioned a much more expensive fix.

    It's a good shooter when it's working right. It shoots just about everything well except that Russian steel cased .22 ammo.
     
    #7 restlessgun, May 8, 2010
    Last edited: May 8, 2010
  8. jeager

    jeager
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    For every round of steel-cased likely equaled 100 rounds brass
    Crown was my first suspicion.
    Sounds like you found a good 'smith!
     
  9. tlafrance

    tlafrance
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    Not true (borrowed from another board):

    A quick web search for brass ammunition seemed to indicate that the common alloy for brass cases is 95% copper and 5% zinc gilding metal, with the following properties (courtesy of www.matweb.com)

    (Youngs) Modulus of Elasticity: 16.7 Msi
    Yield Stress: 10 ksi
    Hardness (Rockwell F): 46
    Elongation at Break: 45%

    I couldn't find a common alloy for steel-cased ammunition, so I'll run with standard 1020 cold rolled:

    (Youngs) Modulus of Elasticity: 29.7 Msi
    Yield Stress: 50.8 ksi
    Hardness (Rockwell B): 68
    Elongation at Break: 15%

    In theory, this means that brass will a) expand more easily (a lower Youngs Modulus for brass means that it will take a lower stress to cause brass to expand the same amount as steel), and b) yield at a lower stress (yield means permanent deformation; consider a paperclip. If you bend it gently, it will spring back into shape; that is elastic deformation, which is recoverable. If you bend it further, though, it will yield, resulting in permanent deformation). This would be the reason for brass 'sealing' a chamber better than steel (of course, this is assuming identical case thickness).

    Brass cases are preferable for reloading because:
    Better elongation properties means that brass can undergo more deformation before fracturing. Lower modulus means it can be resized more easily.

    Tom
     
  10. restlessgun

    restlessgun
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    During one range visit I used the Russian ammo and the problem was that it did not extract properly.

    Once in a while a spent round would stick in the chamber.
    So I had to empty out all the other rounds from the magazine and work the action several times to get it out.

    One round would not come out at all. No matter how many times I moved the lever.

    The range (Top Gun) had a guy who was able to get the bad round out with a small dental pick.

    I have not shot any since. All the other ammo with brass cases ejected just fine.

    It would have been wonderful if they would reliably extract. I bought two bricks of the Junior brand ammo for $20.00 from a friend who was less than thrilled with them.

    Fortunately my Ruger 22/45 handles them without a hitch.
    They shoot dirty and smell but are pretty accurate.

    I just wonder by using the Russian ammo it may have exacerbated the head spacing problem.

    Thanks again for all the advice and help. It's great to find fellow shooters who care enough to spend their time to impart their knowledge.