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Questions about proper staking

Discussion in 'Black Rifle Forum' started by SilverBullet_83, Jan 8, 2010.

  1. SilverBullet_83

    SilverBullet_83 NRA member

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    got in my stag upper a few days ago and got around to pulling it apart today. I know the castle nut on the buffer tube has not been done at all, but how does this look?
    [​IMG]
     
  2. faawrenchbndr

    faawrenchbndr DirtyThirty fan CLM

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    I'd be fine with that staking job.
     

  3. RMTactical

    RMTactical www.AR15pro.net CLM

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    I think Stag staking has gotten better recently, but I still like it done a little more than that.

    That is better than nothing though.
     
  4. AK_Stick

    AK_Stick AAAMAD

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    I'll probably get flamed for this but.


    Some of my unit's older Colt's look about like that, maybe just slightly more.

    I wouldn't worry about it in the slightest. I might do a better job of it, if you were going to do the other one. That said, my castle nut isn't staked either, just torqued.
     
  5. faawrenchbndr

    faawrenchbndr DirtyThirty fan CLM

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    I'm not sure about now,...but for a while ArmaLite was only using LockTight
    and torquing them. A friend in Georgia has a rifle that is done like that, it has 7k rounds fired without an issue.
     
  6. crazymoose

    crazymoose Nonentity

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    That staking is fine. You can see that the inside of the hole has been deformed to provide friction against the screw, which is the whole point. I like the staking my PMOAKS does better, but yours is fine.

    As far as staking the castle nut, get a spring-loaded center punch from a hardware store. They are usually about $8. Grind the tip down (I used a Dremel) so that it's rounded, and go to town staking the end plate into the castle nut indentations. Slow and steady is the key. With my center punch, I usually need 20-30 impacts to achieve one stake.
     
  7. TheChosenOne

    TheChosenOne

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    Loctite does nothing because when it heats up it loses it's effect.
     
  8. faawrenchbndr

    faawrenchbndr DirtyThirty fan CLM

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    Yes,.....I know that. Tell ArmaLite......:dunno:
     
  9. thunderbat

    thunderbat

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    Leave well enough alone, check it when you clean. That should hold up for quite some time. Last thing you want is to deform the rails that run alongside the key...
     
  10. SilverBullet_83

    SilverBullet_83 NRA member

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  11. Ruggles

    Ruggles

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    Looks fine to me as well.
     
  12. lawman800

    lawman800 Juris Glocktor

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    It just keeps getting better, don't it?
    Looks good enough to me.
     
  13. Alaskapopo

    Alaskapopo NRA ENDOWMENT

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    Not good enough. I had to stake the bolt carriers on both of my previous Stag builds. the bolt itself should be pushed in a bit from the metal on the carrier.
    Pat
     
  14. jobob

    jobob

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    That depends on what Loctite we're talking about. Some grades are damn near permanent and made to be heat resistant.
     
  15. Alaskapopo

    Alaskapopo NRA ENDOWMENT

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    The tougest I am aware of is Red and it will come loose with heat. A friend of mines Armalite started malfunctioning at match. Checked his rifle out and found the gas key loose. I tightened it down and used red locktight to finish the match. Later I staked it with my MOAKS tool. But Armalite had not staked his carrier key at all.
    Pat
     
  16. jobob

    jobob

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    Don't they make a sleeve retainer for cylinder sleeves? If it will work in that application, I'd think it would work as a thread locker and wouldn't be affected by heat.

    Might be wrong on that though, as I don't do engine rebuilds.

    I have a compensator screwed onto a 1911 barrel that's held on with nothing but Loctite red, since 1988, through around 20k rounds, and it hasn't budged. It probably isn't subjected to the heat an AR carrier key gets, though.
     
  17. Alaskapopo

    Alaskapopo NRA ENDOWMENT

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    Not sure what a cleeve retainer is?
    Pat
     
  18. crazymoose

    crazymoose Nonentity

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    The thread locker to use for these sorts of applications is Rocksett. It's a ceramic-based locker that's good to 2000F+. It's what AAC suggests for their flash hiders, comps, and QD mounts. You have to de-grease thoroughly before using it, but it is very good stuff.
     
  19. jobob

    jobob

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    I have no idea what cleeve retainer is, either!
     
  20. jobob

    jobob

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    Never heard of it before, but found it here: http://store.flexbar.com/merchant2/...duct_Code=15015&Category_Code=Adhesive-Cement

    Looks like great stuff!